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DIY bearings in 5hp motor idler RPC

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  • Ringo
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

    Does it seem any quieter now?
    yes, quieter turning by hand, not yet got power on, but, yes, much quiet

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post

    yup......how many posters does it take to change a bearing....

    1 to change the bearings and to post that the bearings has been changed.
    14 to share similar experiences of changing bearings and how the bearings could have been changed differently.
    7 to caution about the dangers of changing bearings.
    1 to move it to the Lighting section.
    2 to argue then move it to the Electrical section.
    7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing bearings.
    5 to flame the spell checkers.
    3 to correct spelling/grammar flames.
    6 to argue over whether it’s “bearing” or “bearings” ..
    another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.
    2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is “lamp”.
    15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that “bearings” is perfectly correct.
    19 to post that this forum is not about bearings and to please take this discussion to a motor forum.
    11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use bearings and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum.
    36 to debate which method of changing bearings is superior, where to buy the best bearings, what brand of bearings work best for this technique and what brands are faulty.
    7 to post URLs where one can see examples of different bearings.
    4 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URLs.
    3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this group which makes bearings relevant to this group.
    13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add “Me too”.
    5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the bearings controversy.
    4 to say “didn’t we go through this already a short time ago?”.
    13 to say “do a Google search on bearings before posting questions about bearings”.

    (no, I didn't waste the time to write it, find and replace on the old light bulb shtick)
    Me too!
    (right click, save as....)

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by Ringo View Post
    Well, I got the end bells off and replaced the bearings, for it all back together.
    Touched up some paint and it looks ready to go.
    Thanks for the help guys,
    Does it seem any quieter now?

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
    60 posts about replacing two bearings. This forum never fails to deliver.
    Beats heck out of PM (I call them Pee Mist). It would have been 120 posts over there because of all the butthurt and swearing and general angst.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ringo
    replied
    Well, I got the end bells off and replaced the bearings, for it all back together.
    Touched up some paint and it looks ready to go.
    Thanks for the help guys,

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post

    yup......how many posters does it take to change a bearing....

    1 to change the bearings and to post that the bearings has been changed.
    14 to share similar experiences of changing bearings and how the bearings could have been changed differently.
    7 to caution about the dangers of changing bearings.
    1 to move it to the Lighting section.
    2 to argue then move it to the Electrical section.
    7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing bearings.
    5 to flame the spell checkers.
    3 to correct spelling/grammar flames.
    6 to argue over whether it’s “bearing” or “bearings” ..
    another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.
    2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is “lamp”.
    15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that “bearings” is perfectly correct.
    19 to post that this forum is not about bearings and to please take this discussion to a motor forum.
    11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use bearings and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum.
    36 to debate which method of changing bearings is superior, where to buy the best bearings, what brand of bearings work best for this technique and what brands are faulty.
    7 to post URLs where one can see examples of different bearings.
    4 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URLs.
    3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this group which makes bearings relevant to this group.
    13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add “Me too”.
    5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the bearings controversy.
    4 to say “didn’t we go through this already a short time ago?”.
    13 to say “do a Google search on bearings before posting questions about bearings”.

    (no, I didn't waste the time to write it, find and replace on the old light bulb shtick)
    I guess fish gotta swim.

    Meanwhile life goes on as it did before........

    Leave a comment:


  • Mcgyver
    replied
    Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
    60 posts about replacing two bearings. This forum never fails to deliver.
    yup......how many posters does it take to change a bearing....

    1 to change the bearings and to post that the bearings has been changed.
    14 to share similar experiences of changing bearings and how the bearings could have been changed differently.
    7 to caution about the dangers of changing bearings.
    1 to move it to the Lighting section.
    2 to argue then move it to the Electrical section.
    7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing bearings.
    5 to flame the spell checkers.
    3 to correct spelling/grammar flames.
    6 to argue over whether it’s “bearing” or “bearings” ..
    another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.
    2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is “lamp”.
    15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that “bearings” is perfectly correct.
    19 to post that this forum is not about bearings and to please take this discussion to a motor forum.
    11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use bearings and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum.
    36 to debate which method of changing bearings is superior, where to buy the best bearings, what brand of bearings work best for this technique and what brands are faulty.
    7 to post URLs where one can see examples of different bearings.
    4 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URLs.
    3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this group which makes bearings relevant to this group.
    13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add “Me too”.
    5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the bearings controversy.
    4 to say “didn’t we go through this already a short time ago?”.
    13 to say “do a Google search on bearings before posting questions about bearings”.

    (no, I didn't waste the time to write it, find and replace on the old light bulb shtick)

    Leave a comment:


  • The Metal Butcher
    replied
    60 posts about replacing two bearings. This forum never fails to deliver.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ringo
    replied
    Originally posted by PStechPaul View Post
    Yes, I miscalculated, multiplied by sqrt(3) when I should have divided. So theoretical current is 3750W / ( 240V * sqrt(3) ) = 9.02A. At 80% PF, 90% efficiency, and 1.25 SF that is 12.5 rated load amps (RLA) and 15.6 full load amps (FLA).

    https://www.electricalcalculators.or...nt-calculator/
    sqrt(3), W, A, V, PF, SF, (FLA), RLA,
    thanks but that does not address my basic question, and that is:

    Can I or can I not run 12ga wire to the input side of the peckerhead?
    Right now there is about an inch of 8ga wire to trouble with.
    I want to input about 3ft of 12/3 SO cable so as to build up this RPC to its control box

    Leave a comment:


  • kf2qd
    replied
    Originally posted by Rich Carlstedt View Post
    Hope you scratched a mark between the center housing and the Bell Caps on each end.
    You want to return them to the SAME exact location/orientation when rebolted

    Rich
    Nope Doesn't matter.Only matter with brush alinement on a DC Motor.

    Leave a comment:


  • lakeside53
    replied
    Don't forget all the power you are going to get can only come from the single phase supply, no matter the motor configuration.

    Leave a comment:


  • PStechPaul
    replied
    Yes, I miscalculated, multiplied by sqrt(3) when I should have divided. So theoretical current is 3750W / ( 240V * sqrt(3) ) = 9.02A. At 80% PF, 90% efficiency, and 1.25 SF that is 12.5 rated load amps (RLA) and 15.6 full load amps (FLA).

    https://www.electricalcalculators.or...nt-calculator/

    Leave a comment:


  • CPeter
    replied
    The lower amperage is for a 3 phase motor. 27 amps would be right for a single phase motor.
    Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • Ringo
    replied
    ????
    nameplate amps is 13.6 amps
    where did you get 5hp at 27 amps?
    I am not a degreed electrician, but the search I got showed 5hp and 12ga input wire
    13.6 amps vs 27 amps, one of us is missing something ??

    Leave a comment:


  • PStechPaul
    replied
    The windings may be lighter gauge because they can be connected in series or parallel for 480/240 VAC. The input wires need to be sized for the current at 240 VAC, so will typically need to be about 3 wire sizes larger. 5 HP at 240 VAC is 27 amps so #10 AWG would be adequate, but #8 AWG would be reasonable. Wire size also depends on the insulation temperature rating as well as how tightly multiple turns are packed in a small volume. Magnet wire may be rated as high as 180o C (class H) whereas equipment wiring is often 90o or 125o.

    https://www.coonerwire.com/amp-chart/

    https://mwswire.com/frequently-asked-questions/

    https://mwswire.com/insulation-characteristics/

    http://www.pyramidwire.com/Essex%20P...te%20paper.pdf

    https://ekeindia.com/learning-tutori...ulation-class/

    Leave a comment:

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