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  • #16
    DRO's make even clapped out old machines accurate again, if my DRO picks up table movement from the gib lock, I know what my machine is doing. It's so clapped out that I had to shim the gibs. Needs a rebuild on X/Y. Makes more sense to put linear ways on it.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by RB211 View Post
      DRO's make even clapped out old machines accurate again, if my DRO picks up table movement from the gib lock, I know what my machine is doing. It's so clapped out that I had to shim the gibs. Needs a rebuild on X/Y. Makes more sense to put linear ways on it.

      Oh, you have seen my machine. Worn and clapped on the x describes it well. Broken and shimmed gib too.
      Last edited by I make chips; 09-17-2020, 11:37 AM.

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      • #18
        Someone (J Tiers?) was questioning the cheapo DRO accuracy on some other thread. Out of curiosity I measured mine with 25mm and 50mm "mike setting bars":
        Looked like both axes were measuring about 0.02mm over per 25mm or 0.04mm over for 50mm. Have to say that mike setting bars are far from ideal for this task but I got fairly repeatable numbers after some tries.

        On a mill this could be a issue over greater distances. On the other hand my DRO unit is supposed to have linear compensation like most cheapos but I have never bothered to try it. Shop was also anything but 20 degrees C.

        Repeatability was better than what I was able to guesstimate with my Russian 1 micrometer dial indicator but that is not really suprising. Would be a truly incompetent or too marginal design if it can't count up and down without skipping pulses.
        Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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        • #19
          how did you do it? with a pin in the chuck?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by MattiJ View Post
            Out of curiosity I measured mine with 25mm and 50mm "mike setting bars"...
            Your curiosity got to me. I always assumed the DRO was "accurate", and never questioned it. I've never made a bad part because of the DRO. Here are my results.

            The phone's camera made a nice magnifier.

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            The setup. Yeah, I had a rag under the 100mm block while I wrung it.

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            And the DRO says... Good enough for the home shop. Worst reading I got was 99.990 mm

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            And back to zero (almost).

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            I only tried 100mm as that's the longest block I have. I don't have a thermometer in the shop, but temperature outside was 18C, so probably 20-something inside because yesterday was warmer. I didn't check Y and Z. I'll check them next time I'm making parts for NASA

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            • #21
              This is the DRO I purchased and am very happy with it. Has worked great and install wasn't all that bad.
              https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-250mm-...53.m2749.l2649

              Here is a play list of my DRO install
              https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...XIKGJYd_71O_GX

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              • #22
                I appreciate all the input and there are many types of controllers to choose from. I'm kinda leaning to the ones with the white LCD displays.
                https://www.banggood.com/YIHAOGD-YH-..._warehouse=USA I've never ordered from Banggod but I trust it's the same dealio as ebay.


                Another area of selection that I'll likely screw up is ordering the correct scales. This machine has X travel of 14" Y of 6" and Z with 11"
                Any help selecting scales is also appreciated.

                edit:
                As I scrounge the web today studying the offerings and options, yes I'll go 3 axis. I'm now leaning to the Hymseann as Mike posted in post #12. It has numerous functions, features etc., and has some good reviews etc. Unless advise otherwise I'll go with 200 -300 - and 400mm scales.

                The next quandry is which resolution on the scales to use as the systems are metric and most of the time I'll be working with inches. Any glaring errors with a particular scale resolution?
                Last edited by I make chips; 09-27-2020, 02:35 PM. Reason: Added questions as my brain explodes from studying all the offerings

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                • #23
                  Fitting a DRO on a manual mill will make it so much easier to use with a considerably lower chance of mistakes. I presume that by wanting a two axis DRO on your machine that you already have the Z axis taken care of. I would love to fit a DRO on the Tom Senior which already has one on the quill. It would need a three axis as it has a knee.
                  The only consideration with a small machine is how much the loss of Y axis movement are you expecting, or possibly the loss of the Axis locks.
                  Last edited by old mart; 09-27-2020, 01:05 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by I make chips View Post
                    I appreciate all the input and there are many types of controllers to choose from. I'm kinda leaning to the ones with the white LCD displays.
                    https://www.banggood.com/YIHAOGD-YH-..._warehouse=USA I've never ordered from Banggod but I trust it's the same dealio as ebay.


                    Another area of selection that I'll likely screw up is ordering the correct scales. This machine has X travel of 14" Y of 6" and Z with 11"
                    Any help selecting scales is also appreciated.

                    edit:
                    As I scrounge the web today studying the offerings and options, yes I'll go 3 axis. I'm now leaning to the Hymseann as Mike posted in post #12. It has numerous functions, features etc., and has some good reviews etc. Unless advise otherwise I'll go with 200 -300 - and 400mm scales.

                    The next quandry is which resolution on the scales to use as the systems are metric and most of the time I'll be working with inches. Any glaring errors with a particular scale resolution?
                    If you pick a vendor who knows what he's selling, you don't have to select the scales. Tell the vendor exactly what the travels of each axis are to the nearest millimetre, in words of one syllable, making it very clear what you are telling him. After all, American is not his first language. He will then cut the scales to the correct size to accommodate those travels, with no excess length to get in the way. As explained elsewhere, the scales obviously have to be longer than the travel, but any excess above the necessary is only a nuisance.

                    I went with the five micron scales because they are cheaper and perfectly adequate for my mill (and skill!). If you're making stuff for NASA, pay the extra for one micron (i.e., 0.00003937"), though the vibrations of the machine will simply make the last digit on the readout a meaningless blur.

                    I'm very happy so far with mine, incidentally. It seems to work well, and has certainly made the mill far more enjoyable to use.

                    Good luck!

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                    • #25
                      I put this one on my SB Heavy 10L about 2-1/2 years ago. I've been very happy with it.
                      https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32721078052.html?

                      My only complaint is that it's almost $40 cheaper now.
                      Last edited by MrWhoopee; 09-27-2020, 07:06 PM.
                      It's all mind over matter.
                      If you don't mind, it don't matter.

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                      • #26
                        If Doc0455 and Mr Whoopee took their DRO Displays apart they would find all SINO boards inside. They don’t have to, because I did that last month with my old UNIQ display. They’re good units and I may put another on my lathe fairly soon.
                        My primary advice is to make sure you ground it with that little connection on the back.
                        Illigitimi non Carborundum 😎
                        9X49 Birmingham Mill, Reid Model 2C Grinder, 13x40 ENCO GH Lathe, 6X18 Craftsman lathe, Sherline CNC mill, Eastwood TIG200 AC/DC and lots of stuff from 30+ years in the trade and 15.5 in refinery unit operations. Now retired. El Paso, TX

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                        • #27
                          Seems like everyone raves about their DRO, whichever brand, even the $99-straight-from-China units. Isn't there a measurable difference? I'd like to install a 3-axis DRO on my ancient Index mill. Was attracted to the Sino. Doesn't brand matter?
                          12" x 35" Logan 2557V lathe
                          Index "Super 55" mill
                          18" Vectrax vertical bandsaw
                          7" x 10" Vectrax mitering bandsaw
                          24" State disc sander

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Mike Burch View Post
                            I went with the five micron scales because they are cheaper and perfectly adequate for my mill (and skill!). If you're making stuff for NASA, pay the extra for one micron (i.e., 0.00003937"), though the vibrations of the machine will simply make the last digit on the readout a meaningless blur
                            Pure gold for the uninitiated in this statement! Thanks

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                            • #29
                              I have been told I need one for my Bpee clone, but I am self taught, never used one. I have no idea how they work or how to set them up. I am afraid if I ordered one from china I wouldn’t be able to figure it out, I am not tech savvy.
                              my mill has a old Sargon DRO on it now that’s not working. I hope I could use the mounts for new one.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by RB211 View Post
                                Example of using the Smooth Arc function on a cheap Ditron DRO.
                                Click image for larger version

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                                Dang I wish mine had that feature --- very nice.

                                Well the update on my Jenix is this ---- the X-scale seems to have totally "healed itself" as I wrote about it quite awhile back, and now? now the glitch has appeared in the Y scale - and it is the scale/reader head not the display unit as like before when I swap the leads and the Y scale becomes the X display so does jump the glitch to the X

                                this time the Y is much more worse than the old X glitch was - sometimes no change for inches at a time, and it's so crazy --- came on all in one day, cleaned the head - no change, but --- after having a project that mostly just required the X and I was just ignoring the Y for the day it came back for awhile so who knows maybe it to will heal itself --- hardly any way to live a life... talk about second guessing yourself...

                                there are little circuit boards in the reader heads, I went through them with a fine tooth comb - soldering some questionable looking connections - no change,,, is what it is for now.

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