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HF vs Eastwood vs Woodward clones of Beverly B1 shear

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  • DS_park
    replied
    This is a follow up as I purchased the Eastwood version and have been using it for a couple of weeks. I am fairly pleased with it.

    Pros: It worked right out of the box. Smooth action, no cleaning or adjustments needed, the sliding surfaces were not painted, and fasteners appear to be blued.. The safety pin on a chain that locks it open or closed is a nice feature and has already kept one visitor to my garage from actuating the cutter. I have cut 22, 20, 18, 16 and 14 gauge mild steel with no issues. Thinner metal leaves a lip where cut, thicker does not. (Reported even in genuine Beaverly units)

    Neutral: With use the nice blue paint job is slowly getting scratched. There is a bit of play in the handle due to meshing of the gears which I do not notice during use.

    Cons. Treated with a pungent smelling rust inhibitor.

    Comparison to Harbor Freight. The unit I received is not a HF version repainted Blue. The manual is not the same as HF. There are more pages, more pictures, and detailed instructions on how to adjust the blades. No safety pin on the HF. I would not be surprised to find out both were made in the same factory from the same castings. It is clear that Eastwood set a different build point for their units, at a higher cost of course.

    Just missing a sale at Eastwood and not willing to wait for the next, I paid about $90 more than picking one up at the local HF. For me it was worth it.

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  • darryl
    replied
    I checked out the Magnum hand shear today. All the sizes on display, 8 inch through 12 inch, had good fits. I took the liberty of seeing whether they would cut paper or just fold it- each one nipped a corner neatly with no folding, and blade contact was good over the whole range. The 12 inch was $180 CDN, so not scary at all.

    There was another machine there, called a hand guillotine, which had a longer range, looked to be about 16 or maybe 18 inches. The fit was good on that one as well, but what I didn't like was the curvature on the top blade- it was like a scimitar. That would mean it would need to bend the material being cut quite a bit, so you'd have to put up with the need to flatten every piece that you cut off with it. That can be a PITA. The 3 in 1 is far better in that regard, as is every other shear using the same principle. I looked for a floor model foot powered shear in a 'hobbyist' length, but there was no such thing. Shortest was 52 inch, and over 2 grand. Something like that in say a 30 inch capacity would have me interested-

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  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Ohio Mike pretty much nails it. It's why I refuse to shop there any more, the retailers and importers are screwing everyone. Oh, how I miss Sears Roebuck.....

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by Ohio Mike View Post

    Not picking on Joe... but it is luck in some cases. It isn't that China can't make good stuff its that these retailers don't want to pay for it. All this "crap" is build to a price point NOT to a functional standard. These factories (at least the good ones) can sell grades. If you pay for the QC you can get the best off the line. The lowest paying customers get what ever is left over. Some may be good some not so good.
    Your right, they can make really quality products. I have a Yantai rotary table that I've had for 20 plus years. Well made, nicely ground and very accurate.
    Not crazy about the paint but it's average for the era.
    I later bought the matching tail stock. a few years ago or so, not as nicely made as the RT, but it's only a TS.

    JL..................

    Leave a comment:


  • Ohio Mike
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
    You probably got lucky with yours.
    Not picking on Joe... but it is luck in some cases. It isn't that China can't make good stuff its that these retailers don't want to pay for it. All this "crap" is build to a price point NOT to a functional standard. These factories (at least the good ones) can sell grades. If you pay for the QC you can get the best off the line. The lowest paying customers get what ever is left over. Some may be good some not so good.

    Leave a comment:


  • darryl
    replied
    Maybe I did just get lucky. I can see that if the main body of the thing doesn't have a decent alignment, it'll never be right. Just out of interest, I'm going to check out KMS tomorrow and see what they have on the shelf. I think their brand is called Magnum. The 10 inch shear I bought was around $120 (Canadian), so the larger one should be under $200- not a bad price if it works properly.

    The shear I bought I mounted on a stand that also carries a piece of rail that I use as an anvil. There's enough weight there that it doesn't move around when I pull the handle. That's been pretty handy, and means I don't have to give up any bench top to mount the shear.

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    You probably got lucky with yours. I thought of doing that but everything was so far off that I would have been further ahead to make one from scratch. When it comes to these chinese things no two are alike.

    JL..............

    Leave a comment:


  • darryl
    replied
    I must have got lucky- I bought a 10 inch benchtop shear, and after rebuilding it, it works great. I did have to shim the fixed blade, but not one problem with it afterwards. My only regret is that I didn't buy the longest one available, as it would have been a little handier. I did go through the same problems- scraping away paint and filler, and I replaced the sloppy linkages and re-fit the pins. I built a little steel table for the left side of it so I had something to carry the material, plus clamp a square to. As I said, my only wish is that it had longer blades.

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    I wanted a Beverly B3 but they were scare as hens teeth and if used one happened to show up it wasn't cheap. So.......... I thought I would get one of these bench top shears. How bad could it be?? All I wanted to do was shear some 4" long pieces of 1/8" SS. Before I even got to testing it I found this.................

    It wouldn't set firm on my steel table, it rocked back and forth.I couldn't even clamp it down and wasn't about to strip all the filler and gooey paint off of it to cut and re-weld the feet.

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    The blades were chewing on each other just like my shake rattle and won't roll 3 in 1.

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    This is how out of alignment the upper blade was with the lower.


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    If I tightened up the bolt on the upper blade it ended up 1/8" over the edge of the lower blade.

    This piece of scrap also went back at the distributors expense. It cost them more to take it back than it did to make it. I'm surprised they didn't tell me to just scrap it.

    Click image for larger version

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    JL..........................

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  • metalfixer
    replied
    I just spoke with a person at Beverly Shear 773-238-0003, and was told they purchased Beverly Shear in July,
    and are working to fulfill backorders, probably shipping in November.

    Leave a comment:


  • DS_park
    replied
    Well, I just ordered the Eastwood version so we shall see what the extra $100 brings. It is one of the few that have a safety pin included.

    After reading here and hearing from elsewhere about how good the Harbor Freight version is after getting it home, disassembling, cleaning, adjusting (shimming blade or resharpening), and its only $zzz with tax and the 20% coupon, I decided to try for a little better out of the box. Ordinarily, I like a good project and the HF parts kits can be quite enjoyable and rewarding. In this case the time for such fitting needs to go to the main project, not the tooling. Perhaps I'll jump at a HF 4 x 6 band saw kit next.

    Thank you to all for the varied responses. Boeing surplus, wow been many a year since I was last there.

    Will post what my experience is.


    Leave a comment:


  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by JRouche View Post
    I also wanted an actual Bev, no dice, too price

    I ended up getting the HF unit because I am 3 minutes from the warehouse and would just drive it back.

    I still own it, surprisingly a really nice hand shear. JR
    Well, my 62 Nova. See is my last car. , I wont do anymore cars or Engines,

    Leave a comment:


  • QSIMDO
    replied
    I chose Baileigh after finding out Beverly was closed or in suspended animation.
    The blades are a pain to line up and do roll the edges but I haven't really used it that much for precision cutting.
    Shame about Beverly though.
    Word was their casting shop closed and prices anywhere else were crazy or not available.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bluechips
    replied
    I have the Harbor Freight version. It took most of a day fiddling with it to get it to cut right. None of the main linkage holes appeared to be drilled, just as cast. If they did attempt to machine them, they were already large enough that nothing happened, The lower pocket for the blade wasn't machined to the correct shape and had to be shimmed to support the blade properly. I had to add some thin washers to the linkage and grease it well.

    I will say the blades were well heat treated and after I got it working, it will cleanly shave very thin slices. I've only used it for .060 and thinner aluminum and for 18 gauge and thinner steel. I did try it on some 16 gauge steel, but it didn't want to cut it. I might have the blades adjusted too close for the thicker material, but I"m leaving it where it is for now, since the thinner stuff is what I need it for the most. It's great for roughing out chip board patterns, too.

    I keep the handle pulled back with a rubber strap when not in use. It would be easy for one of my grandkids to lose a finger in it. They usually know not to go in my shop if I'm not there, but you never know.

    I usually consider anything machinery related from Harbor Freight to be a semi-finished collection of castings that's gonna need a lot of work. Less disappointment that way. We don't even want to talk about the bead roller I got from them! They don't even sell that thing anymore. Mine works great now, after redoing practically every part on it.
    Last edited by Bluechips; 09-19-2020, 12:10 PM.

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  • Bob Innes
    replied
    Cutting 1/8” mild steel takes some arm power, but doesn’t strain the shear too much. To make an accurate cut, make a rough cut 1/4 to 1/8” from your cut line first, same as with hand shears. 1/8“aluminum is a breeze.
    Last edited by Bob Innes; 09-19-2020, 12:38 AM.

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