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ER32 Collet Holder/Chuck

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Doozer View Post
    You make me wonder if the set that I have are not slit enough.
    Possibly. Most of my ER collets are REGO-FIX, so they should be "right".

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    • #17
      Yea, mine are Z-Live Center brand.
      Sadly, an import.
      But this was my first set and my introduction
      to the ER-40 system. I know Rego ER or
      Schaublin E was the originator.

      -Doozer
      DZER

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Doozer View Post
        But this was my first set and my introduction to the ER-40 system.
        ER40s have more meat on them than ER32, so they are stiffer. The smaller sizes are probably worse. Still shouldn't make a lot of difference when tightening the nut though, you should be able to tighten it by hand within the 1mm range.

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        • #19
          Nope. Difficult as crap to compress the collet.
          Maybe I need to use the thin wheel on the grinder
          and make the slits deeper.

          -D
          DZER

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          • #20
            Originally posted by pinstripe View Post

            ER40s have more meat on them than ER32, so they are stiffer. The smaller sizes are probably worse. Still shouldn't make a lot of difference when tightening the nut though, you should be able to tighten it by hand within the 1mm range.
            I don't think I could compress mine by hand the full 1 mm.
            Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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            • #21
              Maybe I need to try one of those ball bearing nose nuts they sell.

              -D
              DZER

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              • #22
                Originally posted by gellfex View Post
                I don't think I could compress mine by hand the full 1 mm.
                You might be surprised. I tried an unbranded ER40 collet. It's stiffer than my other collets, but it was still easy to tighten down 1mm by hand.


                Originally posted by Doozer View Post
                Maybe I need to try one of those ball bearing nose nuts they sell.
                Yeah, they help. You are meant to use something like 20% less torque with those. I like the ETM nuts. They have a rotating collar, but no bearings. Both should reduce deformation of the collet.


                Here is a short demo. 13 mm drill bit without any burrs on the shank in a 14-13mm ER32 collet. Hand-tighten enough to lift the 40-taper holder out of the fixture. Start tightening with the torque wrench. The needle shows no reading as the nut begins to turn. I tighten the nut to the correct torque for a 1mm tool. The needle needs to rotate a bit over 360 degrees from the start position to get to the correct torque for ER32. That requires both hands and WAY more effort. Sometimes even a little grunt

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                • #23
                  etm nuts like themselves too. i just saw one at $82.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by pinstripe View Post

                    You might be surprised. I tried an unbranded ER40 collet. It's stiffer than my other collets, but it was still easy to tighten down 1mm by hand.




                    Yeah, they help. You are meant to use something like 20% less torque with those. I like the ETM nuts. They have a rotating collar, but no bearings. Both should reduce deformation of the collet.


                    Here is a short demo. 13 mm drill bit without any burrs on the shank in a 14-13mm ER32 collet. Hand-tighten enough to lift the 40-taper holder out of the fixture. Start tightening with the torque wrench. The needle shows no reading as the nut begins to turn. I tighten the nut to the correct torque for a 1mm tool. The needle needs to rotate a bit over 360 degrees from the start position to get to the correct torque for ER32. That requires both hands and WAY more effort. Sometimes even a little grunt

                    With a 13mm shank you should be using the 13-12mm collet, always go with the smallest that the shank will fit into, less deformation so less chance of adding runout when tightening. And stone the spun drill shanks, the gouges will throw them off centre!

                    Dave H. (the other one)
                    Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.

                    Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by dian View Post
                      etm nuts like themselves too. i just saw one at $82.
                      I can't remember what I paid, but I think they were closer to $40 than $80. The problem is that the ball bearing nuts (when I looked) were all unbranded. So maybe you get a good one and maybe you don't. Maybe it will damage your collets, and maybe it won't. I do have an unbranded ball bearing nut, and it's actually very good for runout. I don't like the ones without a spinning collar because they damage the collets when done up tightly.


                      Originally posted by Hopefuldave View Post
                      With a 13mm shank you should be using the 13-12mm collet, always go with the smallest that the shank will fit into, less deformation so less chance of adding runout when tightening. And stone the spun drill shanks, the gouges will throw them off centre!
                      Correct. This was only to show how little of the torque applied goes towards compressing the collet.

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                      • #26
                        on nuts: when i purchased a set of "high precision" regofix collets, i talked to their tech about getting a precision nut. there are none, they use the same nut for both grades.

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                        • #27
                          Hmm.. I guess I need to practice what I preach
                          and get away from my cheap China collets.

                          -Doozer
                          DZER

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by dian View Post
                            no wrench and no spindle lock for er32/40. you need a fixture. i would like to see how you produce 130 ftlbs with two wrenches. thats why there are so many reports of tooling coming out and weldon holders being better.
                            130 ftlbs(176 Nm) is IMO overkill for most uses and only needed if you really push it.

                            What people probably imagine as "tight" for ER32 collet with the "typical" wrench is something like 40Nm or 25% of recommended max.

                            Typical tiny wrench included with the ER holder kits (200mm effective length) would need superhuman grip for maximum torque.
                            Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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                            • #29
                              yeah Chinese ER collets are kinda crappy. One day I'll save all my pennies and buy a set of Tecknics at least. I already have $2.50 saved up, so won't be long

                              those BB ER nuts are nice. I got a couple from Arceurotrade for reasonable money and they work very well.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
                                those BB ER nuts are nice. I got a couple from Arceurotrade for reasonable money and they work very well.
                                I wonder if they are more likely to work themselves loose from vibrations? Not much of a concern for the home shop, but it's interesting that none of the reputable tooling companies sell them. Maybe that has changed, but it was the case when I was looking a few years ago.

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