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PSA: Machine Your Type 50 Plate Grinding Wheels (Carbide Grinder)

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  • PSA: Machine Your Type 50 Plate Grinding Wheels (Carbide Grinder)

    Seriously. Thank me later.

    Every time I used the carbide grinder, even after a fresh dress the toolbit would sit there and bounce off it. Frustrating, and particularly with carbide, can be destructive. I hypothesized that the painted back plate was moving around on the wheel mount. I was right. It was awful. I chucked it up (3 jaw is best) on the stone and turned the plate until it was flat. The Harbor Freight green wheel was actually better than the Camel Aluminum oxide. The camel must have been about 25 thou out of round although I didn't measure.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	non flat camel.jpg Views:	0 Size:	120.1 KB ID:	1907251

    Click image for larger version  Name:	flat camel.jpg Views:	0 Size:	114.4 KB ID:	1907252

    I'm writing this prematurely, but it seems a whole lot better already. Stayed flat after dress, and holding a piece of steel to it as it spun down, it never got jumpy. While we were in there we stripped down the carbide grinder and trued every surface we could but couldn't get the mount face runout (wampy jaw? :P) any less than 5 thou. Doesn't matter once it's been trued of course, so long as it holds its true.
    21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
    1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

  • #2
    Send it back to Camel and make them eat it.
    But it might have been acquired second hand,
    I get that.

    -Doozer
    DZER

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Doozer View Post
      Send it back to Camel and make them eat it.
      But it might have been acquired second hand,
      I get that.

      -Doozer
      Dad bought it new from MSC. I don't see the point in doing that though. Wait 4 weeks and get something just as ****ty if not worse back. Anything painted (especially with their sandpaper-grade paint) needs to be cleaned off. Might as well take 20 minutes and do it right. I will let them know what a POS they are selling though.
      21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
      1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

      Comment


      • #4
        I recently got one of those white Camel wheels and the run-out on it is depressing. I will see if it will dress up as you show. I'm still in the process of truing up the tables on the grinder. The green HF wheels were better than this one too, but there aren't many options for this type of stone.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by gzig5 View Post
          I recently got one of those white Camel wheels and the run-out on it is depressing. I will see if it will dress up as you show. I'm still in the process of truing up the tables on the grinder. The green HF wheels were better than this one too, but there aren't many options for this type of stone.
          There really isn't a lot of options. Seems like if you don't have the money for a $300 CBN and a $300 Diamond, you're just hosed. Just be careful not to compromise the stone clamping it. I used a light touch and brass shims.
          21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
          1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

            Dad bought it new from MSC. I don't see the point in doing that though. Wait 4 weeks and get something just as ****ty if not worse back. Anything painted (especially with their sandpaper-grade paint) needs to be cleaned off. Might as well take 20 minutes and do it right. I will let them know what a POS they are selling though.
            I don't know about that. MSC has always been pretty good about returns, especially with defective products and CGW would with out a doubt stand behind their product.

            Last summer I bought a 7" x 1/2" x 1 1/4" alox wheel. It didn't quite fit like all the other wheels I've had. It was a little sloppy on my grinders hub. They replaced it without a hassle.

            JL.................
            Last edited by JoeLee; 10-28-2020, 08:24 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

              There really isn't a lot of options. Seems like if you don't have the money for a $300 CBN and a $300 Diamond, you're just hosed. Just be careful not to compromise the stone clamping it. I used a light touch and brass shims.
              I picked up two diamond wheels to fit mine from CDCO. about $75ish. They work fine, I got a 100 grit for roughing and a 180 for finishing.

              http://www.cdcotools.com/
              I just need one more tool,just one!

              Comment


              • #8
                I think its just the way the CGWs are these days. I bought one new, supposedly USA made, and the inside edge runout (which is difficult to dress out) was about .090". The outside edge was out by half that, and the face was about .020" out. The backplate was fine, all the problems were in the abrasive.
                Southwest Utah

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
                  I don't know about that. MSC has always been pretty good about returns, especially with defective products and CGW would with out a doubt stand behind their product.

                  Last summer I bought a 7" x 1/2" x 1 1/4" alox wheel. It didn't quite fit like all the other wheels I've had. It was a little sloppy on my grinders hub. They replaced it without a hassle.

                  JL.................
                  I really don't think that the wheel I have is the exception to the rule. I think it is the rule. I don't think they could send a better one, or if they could, it would only be marginally better. And I still don't want that gooky paint on there, so might as well stick with the fixed one I have. I will contact them I guess to let them know that "this ain't work", but the contact form on their website leaves a little to be desired...

                  Originally posted by wierdscience View Post

                  I picked up two diamond wheels to fit mine from CDCO. about $75ish. They work fine, I got a 100 grit for roughing and a 180 for finishing.

                  http://www.cdcotools.com/
                  Thanks for that link. Might have to get one of those. I primarily like to use it for HSS though, so I'd be more interested in a CBN wheel for that sort of money.

                  Originally posted by chipmaker4130 View Post
                  I think its just the way the CGWs are these days. I bought one new, supposedly USA made, and the inside edge runout (which is difficult to dress out) was about .090". The outside edge was out by half that, and the face was about .020" out. The backplate was fine, all the problems were in the abrasive.
                  Exactly. The inside of this one has a lot of runout as well. Doesn't seem to cause a lot of issues, but it is a little out of balance. Pretty smooth at speed, but shakes a little when spinning down. Outside is pretty good.
                  21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                  1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I think you took the truest part of the wheel and made it untrue to true up the actual culprit, the stone. Do you have a diamond tip dresser to true up the stone?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by wierdscience View Post

                      I picked up two diamond wheels to fit mine from CDCO. about $75ish. They work fine, I got a 100 grit for roughing and a 180 for finishing.

                      http://www.cdcotools.com/
                      Thats what I did cept from a different supplier. Maybe the same manufacture though cause the price is similar. Runs very smooth. JR
                      My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                      https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by RB211 View Post
                        I think you took the truest part of the wheel and made it untrue to true up the actual culprit, the stone. Do you have a diamond tip dresser to true up the stone?
                        Lol no.

                        If the backplate were true, then the machining pattern in the first picture would be shiny on one side and one side only. The fact that it cleaned on opposite sides means that it must be potato chip shaped. I didn't even need an indicator to tell. Just a ruler and spinning it by eye was plenty clear. Hell seeing it spinning down on the grinder one could clearly see the wobble. No longer.

                        I don't have a diamond dresser, but we've been meaning to get one. Just been using the star wheels for now.
                        21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                        1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Search NORBIDE STICK.

                          -Doozer
                          DZER

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

                            Lol no.

                            If the backplate were true, then the machining pattern in the first picture would be shiny on one side and one side only. The fact that it cleaned on opposite sides means that it must be potato chip shaped. I didn't even need an indicator to tell. Just a ruler and spinning it by eye was plenty clear. Hell seeing it spinning down on the grinder one could clearly see the wobble. No longer.

                            I don't have a diamond dresser, but we've been meaning to get one. Just been using the star wheels for now.
                            But your chucking up on the stone which isn't true, then machining the backplate. Of course the backplate isn't going to show true.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by RB211 View Post

                              But your chucking up on the stone which isn't true, then machining the backplate. Of course the backplate isn't going to show true.
                              There wasn't a single true surface on this piece and yet I still got it machined. Amazing.

                              Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_7774_crop.jpg Views:	0 Size:	146.9 KB ID:	1907436

                              I'm really not sure what you're trying to suggest. That The clamping it somehow warped it? That it has to have been bumped up against the jaws and therefore not true? I don't know what to tell you. The evidence that it's potato chip shaped because it's potato chip shaped and not because of how I chucked it is plain as day. If you don't believe me, sorry. Oh well. One would think someone capable of the re-machining and repair work I do could tell if something is flat or not, but I guess not.

                              Doozer, I've seen the Norbide sticks. They looks really impressive. Pricey though, more than an entire wheel. I'll put it on the wishlist. One day. I've used the $10 Chinese diamond dressers and they should work pretty good for the face.
                              21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                              1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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