PSA: Machine Your Type 50 Plate Grinding Wheels (Carbide Grinder)

[JRouche]

Lol no.
, tthat it must be potato chip.

It is Potatoes chips folks, best description
JR

[J Tiers]

But your chucking up on the stone which isn't true, then machining the backplate. Of course the backplate isn't going to show true.

Not sure how you say that.

He has it in a six jaw chuck, so it is not got unbalanced chucking forces. He COULD NOT bend it much without cracking the vitrified wheel, and he did not do that. If he had it out of true, he should have gotten ONE side cleaning up, and nothing on the rest.

Nope, that thing is a "pringle" for sure.

[Doc Nickel]

Just as an aside: Not a particular fan of Norbide. I have a couple sticks, and they do work, but their best use is to "shape" a wheel- like if you need a radiused corner or something.

For actual dressing and especially truing, use a single-point diamond. And in something like a tool grinder- that is, with tables with a slot for an angle gage- it's well worth the time to whip up a small slider that rides in that slot, and holds the diamond at a fixed distance from the wheel.

Doc.

[JRouche]

But your chucking up on the stone which isn't true, then machining the backplate. Of course the backplate isn't going to show true.

Sounds odd but is correct.

The Vitrified Stone is what matters, that is doing the work.

It seem like shaping everything around a center.

zYo have to find one. JR

[The Metal Butcher]

Not sure how you say that.

He has it in a six jaw chuck, so it is not got unbalanced chucking forces. He COULD NOT bend it much without cracking the vitrified wheel, and he did not do that. If he had it out of true, he should have gotten ONE side cleaning up, and nothing on the rest.

Nope, that thing is a "pringle" for sure.

It was in the 6 jaw, but only using 3 jaws. The other 3 weren't touching. 6 jaws don't particularly like non-round material. The second one I just removed 3 jaws to make sure they didn't interfere. My friend suggested the term "saddle" shaped, which is a better description than what I was using. But yes, exactly.

Just as an aside: Not a particular fan of Norbide. I have a couple sticks, and they do work, but their best use is to "shape" a wheel- like if you need a radiused corner or something.

For actual dressing and especially truing, use a single-point diamond. And in something like a tool grinder- that is, with tables with a slot for an angle gage- it's well worth the time to whip up a small slider that rides in that slot, and holds the diamond at a fixed distance from the wheel.

Doc.

I do need to make something like that. But you know about irons in the fire all too well. Lowish on the list.

[The Metal Butcher]

I finally have gotten a chance to use this grinder a reasonable amount, and it's totally fixed. No more tool bouncing off the stone. So much nicer. Really makes radius tools a breeze to make.

[bborr01]

I picked up two diamond wheels to fit mine from CDCO. about $75ish. They work fine, I got a 100 grit for roughing and a 180 for finishing.

http://www.cdcotools.com/

How thick was the bond on them? I looked at CDCO website and couldn't tell at all.

[bborr01]

I sometimes use a Norbide stick for hogging the corner of a wheel down to begin putting a radius on it but prefer one of these if I don't have a diamond point available. The price is right too.
https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Abrasi...s%2C183&sr=8-5

[metalmagpie]

I found a place that made CBN wheels to my spec for reasonable money. I wrote about it here: https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/fo...80#post1678380

You don't really learn about dressing a wheel until you try to get a real good finish on a surface grinder. I have seen little blocks that hold dressing diamond shanks and that ride in the grooves on a carbide grinder table. With one of those you can probably get the face pretty flat. Use your dressing stone to just break the inside and outside edges after. Then touch a piece of wood to the running wheel face. Reason is after dressing some of the abrasive didn't quite come loose during dressing but is sort of just hanging on. The wood will remove those.

metalmagpie

[RB211]

I guess I'm in the boat of not touching the backing plate, but rather dress the wheel properly with a diamond point.

[J Tiers]

I guess I'm in the boat of not touching the backing plate, but rather dress the wheel properly with a diamond point.

Just fine, IF the mounting face of the wheel is flat. Otherwise, there may be an issue getting the wheel mounted correctly, and keeping it mounted the same way. Or, in bad cases, even cracking the wheel, or the bond between it and the plate.

Pic 1 in this thread is an illustration. The "pringle shape" included two opposite corners of the hole pattern. It may be that only one of those two could be flat to the flange it mounts to, because the other would be up off the flange, or , as in the picture, those two appear to be "higher than" the other two relative to the flange, so they would touch, but the other two could not both touch at once.

Cinching down might crack the abrasive, or just break the bond between abrasive and plate.

[RB211]

Just fine, IF the mounting face of the wheel is flat. Otherwise, there may be an issue getting the wheel mounted correctly, and keeping it mounted the same way. Or, in bad cases, even cracking the wheel, or the bond between it and the plate.

Pic 1 in this thread is an illustration. The "pringle shape" included two opposite corners of the hole pattern. It may be that only one of those two could be flat to the flange it mounts to, because the other would be up off the flange, or , as in the picture, those two appear to be "higher than" the other two relative to the flange, so they would touch, but the other two could not both touch at once.

Cinching down might crack the abrasive, or just break the bond between abrasive and plate.

If the backing plate isn't flat, it's defective and should be returned

[J Tiers]

If the backing plate isn't flat, it's defective and should be returned

I do not disagree.... just mentioning that no amount of work on the abrasive side will do any good.

The OP opted to fix, and not return.

[The Metal Butcher]

If the backing plate isn't flat, it's defective and should be returned

Lol. This forum is the king of 100 hour solutions to $10 problems. In this case it was a 15 minute solution. NBD. That's my opinion at least. Others can opt to return or whatever they are comfortable with/ can wait for.

[wierdscience]

How thick was the bond on them? I looked at CDCO website and couldn't tell at all.

Mine are 1/8"