I just picked up a 1929 Doall JD Vertical Bandsaw,it has had about 4 different paint jobs that was done with Blunt Sticks.Badges and all was covered in very thick paint and it needs to be removed.
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Cleaning Paint off Machine Badges
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I've cleaned a lot of aluminum badges from different machines that I've restored. I've never found that lacquer thinner affected any of the original coloring.
I'm really surprised because lacquer thinner cuts just about everything. It's my favorite cleaner but you have to be careful.
I've never soaked them, but I have wiped them several times with thinner soaked rags. I have noticed that it will start to remove some of the coloring around the edges of the badge.
Maybe you could try soaking them in a less aggressive type solvent like turp or enamel reducer. that may soften it up enough so you can rub it off with your finger.
A heat gun may be another option.
JL ......
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I use Jasco paint and epoxy remover. Its a gel so stays put. Cover with food plastic wrap and come back after lunch. Wipe clean. I have done many like that. JR
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Originally posted by Ian B View PostAnother paint solvent - if you can find a supplier - is methylene chloride. It's the most effective paint stripper that I've ever found.
Ian
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There are nameplates, and there are nameplates.
Some have raised metal for the text (etched nameplates).
Some have stamped-in text.
Some have the text all in paint only
Some have paint for the labels of the entries, but the entries themselves are stamped.
Any of the ones that have all or part of the text in paint only are a risk when using ANY sort of chemical paint remover.
The safest paint remover I know of, and it may not be 100% safe, is plain water. Simmering a painted item in hot water for a longish time will loosen or remove most types of paint, other than baked-on enamel. Does a good job on latex paints, sorta OK on oil based, and takes (usually) much longer to affect baked-on paint.
Not too practical for big parts, but very possible for removable nameplates.3751 6193 2700 3517
Keep eye on ball.
Hashim Khan
If you look closely at a digital signal, you find out it is really analog......
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Those came out great. Hey! New business opportunityJR
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Just as a further anecdote... The oil sump cap on my W&S lathe...
One quick brush with hardware-store non-methyl-chloride paint stripper:
And after about ten minutes, scrubbed with an old toothbrush in warm water:
This isn't the only plaque I've done exactly that, to. In most cases, the printing is an ink or lacquer, which isn't affected as fast as the (usually) enamel top coat. The enamel bubbles up, scrub it off in water to neutralize the stripper, and virtually no damage to the printing. (Apart, of course, from whatever was already there before it was painted.)
Doc.Doc's Machine. (Probably not what you expect.)
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Originally posted by J Tiers View PostThere are nameplates, and there are nameplates.
Some have raised metal for the text (etched nameplates).
Some have stamped-in text.
Some have the text all in paint only
Some have paint for the labels of the entries, but the entries themselves are stamped.
Any of the ones that have all or part of the text in paint only are a risk when using ANY sort of chemical paint remover.
The safest paint remover I know of, and it may not be 100% safe, is plain water. Simmering a painted item in hot water for a longish time will loosen or remove most types of paint, other than baked-on enamel. Does a good job on latex paints, sorta OK on oil based, and takes (usually) much longer to affect baked-on paint.
Not too practical for big parts, but very possible for removable nameplates.
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