New to me shaper

[Galaxie]

.....The tool holder is an Art Volz design from the shaper group. Kinzers has a copy of it also.

Hope this helps someone.

mc_n_g

Thank you for reminding me about that tool holder. I've always meant to make one, but I keep getting side-tracked with other stuff.

[JCByrd24]

Made first chips today, this thing is so cool! Worked up to 0.100” DOC with 0.015” step over no problem.

[boats]

Have no personal experience with shapers, but watched every Abom 79 Utube on his G&H shaper. It’s probably the best series out there. Early ones restoration later set up and use. Must be 3 dozen videos.

Boats

[Michael Edwards]

No. Just the shear tool I did so far. But that shear tool leaves a finish that rivals the ground finishes on tools I've got here.

^This

Been awhile since I had a shaper, but here is an old pic of what a shear tool can do on aluminum.

[BCRider]

Made first chips today, this thing is so cool! Worked up to 0.100” DOC with 0.015” step over no problem.

I need to work on mine some more. The rougher I made up with a DOC of around .08 was meeting the material with a really nasty thump.

Also my holder seems to be flexing a little. I can see the whole Armstrong tool holder waving a little. I'm sure that doesn't help either. Likely a burr or chip or something I missed.

Michael, I haven't tried the shear finisher on aluminium yet. But darn that's sweet!

[mc_n_g]

I have one tool ground where the cutting edge is at a 35-40 degree angle as a 'rougher'. The side rake angle for the face is about 45 degree angle. This would be the slicing action for the chip to form along the ram pushing line. The 35-40 cutting edge makes it easier on the roughing cuts.
The second tool, a finisher, has a wide rounded bottom and a the same side rake angle and the rougher.
I only use the finisher up to about 0.010 on an inch depth of cut.

[metalmagpie]

Congratulations on your new machine. The first thing IMO you should do is to learn how and where to oil it and oil the bee jeezus out of it.

I archived this wisdom years ago.

"Look for the following back issues of Popular Mechanics: Oct. 58 p. 219 and Feb. 54 p. 234. Amazing how much they pack into those few pages."

Also look for HSM magazine issue May/June 1997 which has an article by Frank Maclean titled "A Few Thoughts on Shapers". I found that one particularly helpful when I got my first shaper (an Atlas 7B) and was learning how to run it.

metalmagpie

[BCRider]

A double yes on the oiling. The whole machine is sliding plain bearing surfaces. Oiling well and even on longer sessions I'd say even oiling once every hour is not at all out of the question.

When I started out I thought it better to use a thicker oil. On the ram this resulted in so much viscous drag that it lugged the motor down. So it's 10W non detergent for the ram and shaft bearings and thicker way oil for the yoke and block and for the screws and bearings on the end of the screws. And for the ways of course.

[dian]

out of curiosity, what oil do you call "10w"? iso, sae? something else?

[BCRider]

Sae 10w.

[Danl]

Not sure where I found this photo. How many speeds do you think they can get out of these belts?


Dan

[Michael Edwards]

[JRouche]

Not sure where I found this photo. How many speeds do you think they can get out of these belts?
Dan

Probably many but it looks like they like high speed just fine

I like mine. Just turn the crank a lil to see. Variable speed?

My first go around with a Reeves Drive. I like reeves drives. Bridgeport, Clausing, Logan and Harding? I forget, there is some other regular company that used them back in the 70s. Noisy, cept for the Logan Shaper.

Like a sewing machine.

Nice to hear you got yours up and rolling. Umm, advice not asked for. Slow her down to "all slow" at first. Thats whats nice about shapers. They dont give two hoots about slow moving tool bits. They just go to work and dont complain.

[dian]

Sae 10w.

well, still not clear. i assume you mean 20 "weight" which imho is a really confusing way to specify oil. that would be "sae 20" similar to iso 68. 20w might be confused with "20w" in e.g. "20w-50" which is a winter rating, measured in a completely differen way and meaningless for machine operation.

i know there are tables where 20w is converted to iso 22/32 but that simply doesnt make sence. last time i saw 20w, 30w etc advertised was for damper oils and they seemed not really to match any other viscosity classification. the subject would be less confusing if everybody would use kinematic viscosity @40°c.

did you actually purchase the oil as "20w"?

[David Powell]

I believe I have quoted my friend before----- Any oil is better than no oil, the proper oil is better than the wromg oil, the best results come from using the proper oil, in the intended places, at the proper intervals..
Regards David Powell.