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Lubrication for bevel gears on breast drill?

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  • Lubrication for bevel gears on breast drill?

    What would be best stuff to use to lubricate the bevel gears on a hand powered breast drill? Lithium grease?

    This is the one I bought last Sunday. I cleaned it up this afternoon and I think it looks great. Even most of the original paint is intact. I need to post some pictures.

  • #2
    I don't have a good answer for you on this one, but a related question:

    I have a smaller "egg beater" hand drill (SOGARD), but I can't keep the screw from tightening when I turn the crank. This locks the drill up tight, more PIA than danger, but still buggers the brightwork.
    Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

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    • #3
      Dan is this the type with exposed gears? I would be inclined to use a dry lube of the auto type for door hinges. Lithium sounds kind of messy in that application and would tend to hold grit IMO.
      Is it one like this piece of American tooling?
      Still visible on the crown? gear is...

      American Manufacturer.
      Goodell-Pratt Company
      Toolsmiths.
      Greenfield, Mass. U.S.A

      this is also on the handle and chuck...there is no mistaking where these were made!

      It has an oil hole in the stem to lube the pinion gear



      ken
      Last edited by speedy; 03-26-2006, 09:59 PM.
      Ken.

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      • #4
        "Gear Quiet" Speical mix of Steam Cylinder Oil and John Deere powdered graphite

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        • #5
          pgmrdan's picture and mine are the pre-work place saftey exposed gear type, not the more modern "German" style. They should be lubricated, to cut down on the wear. I haven't found anything that "works" in a total way, I run into the issue of the lube getting onto the work. There are supposed to be some new products on the market for woodworking machines, but I haven't tried them yet.
          Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

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          • #6
            So anything we put on em will end up on the walls, ceiling, floor, you...basically slung all over the place...

            That narrows the choices considerably

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            • #7
              Back in the old days, we just used a daub of lard, bees wax or candle wax. It ain't like it's running at 5,000+ rpm.

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              • #8
                Yeah, what Ken said.
                There's always some pariffin around, or an old candle. Don't use anything that will drip, and NEVER anything with silicone in it.

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                • #9
                  I'd be inclined to use Dry Kote or Top Kote, something like that. Made for table saw tables, etc.
                  I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                  • #10
                    In the "old" days candle stubs, are used for lots of things. But "nowdays" they have all kinds of additives, like perfumes. I think pariffin or bees wax is a "better" solution. All to often the "bad" does not show up until the finish is applied. I now work in a cabinet shop, and there is a list of "things" that employees are not to use on their hands or "spray" while in the shop, because it causes problems for the finish.
                    Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

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                    • #11
                      I vote for and with techshop Bees wax will stick on the gears and not fly off will soften when you start cranking and put some heat in to it. If you don't have any beeswax check the better halfs sewing kit. they have a little plastic thingie in it with slots to drag the thread thru so you can thread the needle also for lubing the needle for some stiff fabrics like canvas. You also can pick up a lifetime supply at one of the big box crafts srtores that sell candle making supplies. In the neighborhood of 12.00 bucks U.S. last week at JoAnn fabrics. the thread waxer was about 3 bucks.


                      Also for the eggbeater thats locking up I used loctite on the screw on mine let it dry overnight and it hasn't did it since. Not that I use it lot.
                      Last edited by PTSideshow; 03-27-2006, 06:29 PM.
                      Glen
                      Been there, probably broke it, doing that!
                      I am not a lawyer, and never played one on TV!
                      All the usual and standard disclaimers apply. Do not try this at home, use only as directed, No warranties express or implied, for the intended use or the suggested uses, Wear safety glasses, closed course, professionals only

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                      • #12
                        I thought I mentioned bees wax already. Did I misspell it?

                        Techshop - Are you sure you're not Don in disguise? For having no beneficial offering in the beginning, you sure know a lot about it now. Perfume in candles? Who the hell does that? Nobody but some yuppie x-gen urbanite with a smelly house. Besides, a drill won't be able to tell the difference anyway.

                        Sorry, rant off... My disgust with Don spilled over.

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                        • #13
                          CCWKen:

                          I think you are the first to mention bees wax in this thread, I was just the last one to post it before the thread that mentioned my "handle'.

                          Also I think I used to know everything, and have done a few thing once, maybe twice if I liked it, or there was a positive cash flow involved. But, I have started to realize that I can't recall the info fast enough to make the difference in this high speed age. I am most definately not a "multi-tasker", have only two speeds; "stopped" and "not stopped", I have been told that a casual observer may not notice the difference.
                          Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

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