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Grinding Something Longer Than The Chuck

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  • #16
    You say that the opposite edge is slightly convex. That means that it bulges out at the center. And apparently you can grind an 18 inch length.

    What I would do is to first grind that opposite side, but not all of it. Grind the CENTER 18", leaving the outer 5" on each end as they are. Start with taking only a thousandth or so from the middle of that center 18". Then go deeper just until your ground area reaches the full 18" width that your grinder can handle. Actually, stop going deeper when ONE SIDE of the ground area reaches that point which is 5" from the end. Then you will have an 18" center area that is flat and reasonably parallel to the edge that you wish to grind. You could then check with a straight edge to be sure that neither of the un-ground ends is higher than that 18" wide flat in the middle. They must be below the level of the ground flat at the center so if they are above that, a file would be an easy way to take them down.

    Flip it over and grind the center 18" of your edge. Then move it over by 5" or 6" to one side. It will still be supported by at least 12" of the ground center of the back edge which is flat. So you can do that side. Move it over to the other side and do that one.

    It will take a delicate hand on the height of the grinding wheel, but a thin layer of Dykem could help to match the depth of the three cuts.
    Paul A.
    SE Texas

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there IS a penalty for trying!


    • #17
      I ground these 24" blades on my grinder. I clamped both of them together, ground the first 15" moved out from under the wheel and slid the them forward enough to finish up. Then I moved back under the wheel and continued. I couldn't tell where I left off. It looked like one continuous grind, but they were dead straight and flat.

      I'm thinking of taking them off the shear and clamping them to the bottom of the apron, one on each side, doing this on the surface plate and then transferring to the grinder.

      Those blades a 1 1/4" x 1/2" they should be plenty stiff enough to support 10" or so of the apron overhanging the chuck.


      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG-20190703-114058.jpg Views:	0 Size:	221.5 KB ID:	1910981
      Last edited by JoeLee; 11-17-2020, 07:28 PM.


      • #18
        Clamp to angle plates on your chuck, and when you shift it, dial up the ground side with a test indicator to the grinder travel. Might need to get creative with an indicator mount to reach it, but it will work. Once you get the ground side dialed in level to travel, it's a simple matter of grinding down to your other side and blending in. Use some dykem of a sharpie to touch off from the ground side. I do stuff like this at work all the time when it's outside the machine travels. Both on the mill, and grinder.

        If you can't clamp the plates, then maybe drill some "tooling holes" for through bolts. Or use an oposing angle plate with a screw in it to hold. There's not much force in grinding so two opposing plates with a few cross screws bearing on your part will more than do. Just don't go wild hogging material off and you should be fine. Alternatively some super glue would also work.... but it would be a pain to dial in for the 2nd cut after sliding it down.