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Powering a 3 phase question (motor starter)

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  • #31
    Originally posted by outlawspeeder View Post
    jmm03: I like the current but parts for the is very costly.

    rdfeil: The motor that came with this has a bad winding. New motor has been check and bearing replaced by the same shop. The old motor was wired for 440V.

    I ordered 35 amp fuses this morning. More to follow.
    What exactly is costly? The Chinese all-in-one looks tempting, but that AB hardware is far superior. Looks like you're very close to having everything you need anyway.

    Originally posted by jmm03 View Post
    Outlaw, if you look at the plate that the fuse blocks are mounted to you will notice three sets of holes. they are there so that different sizes of fuses can be used by moving the bottom block up to the appropriate holes. That way you can use the smaller ,lower voltage rated fuses if those are more readily available. (and they are cheaper usually) Jim
    Yup. Dad has the same box with the shorter 240v fuses. It's the inlet to his RPC, so only 2 of the 3 are used. Probably a waste of time since it's on a 30 amp breaker which pops first anyway. Need to up that.
    21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
    1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration


    • #32
      The old school (used) $20 for a set of 3. The green ones $18 and I thought that is why they let go.

      Knowing that I could move that lower block came a little late. I just put the order in. I like the though of fuses or breakers. If I did the pipe thing I would have added a small box with breakers in it as there is not space in the 1 foot and half long box.... The box on my lather is 1X1 foot and has the extra relay for reverse.


      • #33
        Fuses or breakers are fine for protection during normal use. My suggestion was actually two fold. First was to bypass the fuses just to prove out the wiring and operation of the machine and gather data to confirm current draw without spending money on blown fuses. Second, you could then either replace the bypasses with properly sized fuses OR choose to leave the fuses bypassed, your choice! After working in the industrial control industry for almost 40 years I have learned that PROPER protection is a MUST, while OVER protection just leads to unreliable equipment operation. Nothing makes a person more upset than having an unneeded fuse blow and stop production while a replacement is located. Just my thoughts....

        Also, after you prove things out, I would recommend that you order a spare set of fuses (ALL FUSES) and keep them in the control box just in case....

        Keep us posted. It sounds like you are almost at the finish line 😀.
        Last edited by rdfeil; 01-10-2021, 01:18 AM. Reason: spelling

        Happily working on my second million Gave up on the first


        • #34
          For those helping me THANK YOU! The K&T lives!

          The fuses I order looked like they were the same dimension but they where 1/2 longer and a little bit more on the diameter. Knowing that the fuse mounts could move can in really handing! [thank you jmm03] Dropped them down to the next set of holes and popped them in.

          rdfeil: I thought about bypassing the fuses but after doing some reading about amps and voltage it started to click. As voltage drops amps go up if HP stays the same...

          I still want to change out the table oil but I ran the X,Y, & Z and the cutter drive. The clutch and brake work well.

          Shutting down I had some relay chatter I have to look at?

          Again thanks all.


          • #35
            Outstanding!!! Glad you got it going.

            Happily working on my second million Gave up on the first


            • #36
              I really like those old AB starters, well made and they really did a good job of documentation and most of its still avaliable.