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  • Tim Clarke
    replied
    Got a new Monte Carlo stock for my Winchester Model 12.

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  • Tom S
    replied
    Bit late the party here, but I ordered myself 4 corny kegs (5 gallon) for a kegorator I built recently. I'd been waiting for them to go on sale, and I'd call $135 CAD off a good deal. I think that something like $20 US these days.

    A few brew nights should get these guys filled up pretty soon, and then I guess the party's at my place? Outdoors of course....

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  • Corbettprime
    replied
    Have a Colt Gold Cup N M, haven't shot it much due to ammo cost. Was on a online estate auction site(same one I bought my SB 9A on) and they had a RCBS .45 cal. 185grain bullet mold for sale. The next auction had a RCBS Rockchucker press. My Herter's super O press uses weird shell holders, was able to get the RCBS. Next auction had RCBS dies, labeled as ".43 ACP" dies, and won that bid. When and picked them up, turned out to be carbide 3_die set. All three items, including auction premium and sales tax, $155 bucks. Already have sizer die for luber/sizer, and lots of powder and brass. Feel a lot better shooting 8 cent rounds over 50 cent rounds.

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  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by flathead4 View Post

    I have a 1966 SB9A that was has some wear but is by no means wore out. Both the compound and cross feed have about .010 play as read on the dials. I have mostly worked around it and always make sure to snug the compound or cross slide towards me before taking any cut that matters.
    Thanks for the data point, I really have nothing to compare it to and so I have no idea what to expect. Mine has about 025 of play in the dials on both. Interrupted cuts can be hairy sometimes, also doing hard stuff. Doing brass or mild steel is no problem.

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  • flathead4
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

    Thanks for the vote of confidence -- hope you got yours figured out too! My compound and crossfeed nuts have caused problems when doing things with a lathe that are illegal in 39 countries. (small milling projects) The SB9 nuts are not adjustable -- I have considered splitting them with a hacksaw and putting a set screw axially to take up backlash. But that feels too hackish. The nuts are the bronze originals from 1945, yet oddly enough there is no discernable wear on the screws themselves. My leadscrew and halfnuts aren't even on my radar of things to worry about.
    I have a 1966 SB9A that was has some wear but is by no means wore out. Both the compound and cross feed have about .010 play as read on the dials. I have mostly worked around it and always make sure to snug the compound or cross slide towards me before taking any cut that matters.

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

    Sounds like plenty to me.

    On the bright side the 7.5" set-tru is doing great. Dad and I just balanced it+the backplate Saturday. So at least I'm still sane and know how to make a backplate.

    I never found leadscrew nut looseness to create chatter, you have?
    Thanks for the vote of confidence -- hope you got yours figured out too! My compound and crossfeed nuts have caused problems when doing things with a lathe that are illegal in 39 countries. (small milling projects) The SB9 nuts are not adjustable -- I have considered splitting them with a hacksaw and putting a set screw axially to take up backlash. But that feels too hackish. The nuts are the bronze originals from 1945, yet oddly enough there is no discernable wear on the screws themselves. My leadscrew and halfnuts aren't even on my radar of things to worry about.

    Leave a comment:


  • epicfail48
    replied
    Not quite an old Mauser, but ill confess i like the new stuff more anyways

    Savage Axis II in 6.5 creedmore was the base rifle, dropped it into an MDT LSS chassis with a Luth MBA-3 buttstock and a Magpul grip, put a Primary Arms 4-16x scope on it. Still waiting on a change to take it out to the range, i shot the rifle before all the changes so i know it shoots, but i cant wait to see what it does now. Eventual hope is to have it sub-MOA and accurate out to 800 yards
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.

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  • interrupted_cut
    replied
    I got a 3 axis DRO with magnetic scales from DRO PRO's for my 9 x 36 Rockford knee mill. Installing the scales was interesting. These mills are rare enough that I couldn't find anyone online who had installed DRO scales on one. Mounting the X axis to the back of the table is pretty straightforward, but the Y and Z required some creative solutions. There was nothing square or vertical on the column so I mounted a piece of aluminum angle on some angled pedestals to provide an adjustable surface to attach the Z scale to. The Y scale also had to be on standoffs to clear irregularities on the cast mounting surface. Both took a little bit of trial and error to get within the allowable tolerances for runout over the travel length. DRO PRO's provided lots of brackets and fasteners to allow for many options for mounting, but I think I only used the X read head bracket in its intended location. The other read heads were mounted using modified pieces from the kit, attached in ways they weren't intended, but it all worked. I was only able to use the scale cover on the X axis, but the locations of the Y and Z make them relatively insensitive to chip accumulation. The kit comes with a good supply of hardware, but it is all metric; 3, 4 and 6 mm for the scales and brackets, and 10 mm for the readout arm pivots. I couldn't bring myself to tap any metric holes in the 60 year old cast iron, so I substituted 8-32 and 1/4-20 for any fasteners that needed to be threaded into the mill. (It didn't hurt that I also have a much better supply of U.S. standard than metric taps). The readout arm pivots were really sloppy, and the arm not really long enough to mount in my desired location. I reworked the pivots to use larger diameter shop made bolts with a .421 shank and 10 mm threads (because I happened to have a 27/64" reamer to open up the holes), and I fabbed and added an additional 6" arm segment to give me more reach and articulation. I am really happy with how it came out, and it makes working on the mill a lot easier when you don't have to take into account backlash or worry if the dials have slipped while you're cranking multiple turns of travel. It also inspired me to complete some other mill improvements I had been thinking about, like making a vinyl way cover for the column and some table cover tool trays fitted around the vise. I'm just sorry I didn't do this years ago.

    Davis

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  • The Metal Butcher
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
    Got a nice new 4-jaw for the SB. The chucks that came with the machine were a bit "used" to put it gently. Also ordered a slug of A36 plate 6" dia x 1" thk for a backplate. Recalling Metal Butchers recent adventures with chatter, I think it should be enough for a 1/2 HP SB 9A. In all honesty, the crossfeed and top slide nuts are the greatest problem.
    Sounds like plenty to me.

    On the bright side the 7.5" set-tru is doing great. Dad and I just balanced it+the backplate Saturday. So at least I'm still sane and know how to make a backplate.

    I never found leadscrew nut looseness to create chatter, you have?

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Got a nice new 4-jaw for the SB. The chucks that came with the machine were a bit "used" to put it gently. Also ordered a slug of A36 plate 6" dia x 1" thk for a backplate. Recalling Metal Butchers recent adventures with chatter, I think it should be enough for a 1/2 HP SB 9A. In all honesty, the crossfeed and top slide nuts are the greatest problem.
    Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 12-28-2020, 09:30 PM.

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  • 754
    replied
    Originally posted by boslab View Post
    Most cutting pantos were 1:1, did see one that seemed to have adjustable arms like an engraver, can’t imagine what for, make pattern out of plate, mount and cut, the mag spindle motors often failed, thickest I’ve cut was 254 mm slab, beats hand cutting, esp thick stuff
    mark
    I was thinking for numbers, letters , and company logos ..

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  • flathead4
    replied
    Originally posted by Tim Clarke View Post
    Man, that is one GORGEOUS ole Swede!
    I agree. It is a work of art and the 6.5X55 cartridge is a dream to shoot.

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  • Tim Clarke
    replied
    Man, that is one GORGEOUS ole Swede!

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  • flathead4
    replied
    A no-drill scope mount for my116 year old Swedish Mauser. The mount is designed to take a LER pistol scope like the scout rifles. Although with a 29" barrel and weighing in almost 9 pounds that stretchers the definition a bit. Still this should be more fun than the original iron site with its 300 meter zero and no windage adjustment.
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  • boslab
    replied
    Most cutting pantos were 1:1, did see one that seemed to have adjustable arms like an engraver, can’t imagine what for, make pattern out of plate, mount and cut, the mag spindle motors often failed, thickest I’ve cut was 254 mm slab, beats hand cutting, esp thick stuff
    mark

    Leave a comment:

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