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Custom took roll/case for measuring tools

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  • #16
    I would totally make that out of leather, snaps are super easy to peen on, but for some tools a knotted thong might be even better. I need leather occasional and I've been meaning to stop by a junkyard to see if seat leather could be scavenged from high end wrecks.
    Location: Jersey City NJ USA


    • #17
      Tandy Leather has at least 7 stores in USA ,and they ship..
      must be a few other sources..


      • #18
        I appreciate all of the feedback. I use these tools regularly for taking precision measurements in the field. Additionally I have a vernier caliper and extension dividers that would be nice to fit in a set. The Pelican cases look cool. I wonder if they have smaller or thinner cases. I could put something like that right in the tool bag without fear of it getting crushed.


        • #19

          Have you checked the sporting good store in the fishing dept for storage boxes like those in the above link? Google 'fishing gear box' When I was a traveling tech I carried a few different boxes of small parts in fishing gear boxes.

          no neat sig line
          near Salem OR


          • #20
            Originally posted by loose nut View Post
            Those plastic Starrett cases don't last long and leather may promote rust. Might be OK if it is well oiled but then it is messy.
            Yes, and canvas would probably be worse.

            It's very nice, I've never seen set that before.



            • #21
              Originally posted by Bented View Post

              These have disadvantages however.
              Not made by Starrett
              They are not red
              Do not have Starrett printed on the cover

              If you can live without the branding then this is a fine choice.
              You forgot "They are made by Pelican".

              Originally posted by mgt3 View Post
              The Pelican cases look cool. I wonder if they have smaller or thinner cases. I could put something like that right in the tool bag without fear of it getting crushed.
              Try MyCaseBuilder (link below). You can choose between Pelican, SKB, SeaHorse and a variety of other hard cases.


              Example of a thin case:

              Or if you are looking for a much cheaper (and lighter duty case):

              Or a blow molded case that mimics a factory supplied case:

              You get the idea...You can search all cases by size once you know approximately what size you want or you can search by manufacturer but there are oodles of choices.

              Last edited by Fasttrack; 01-12-2021, 12:59 AM.


              • #22
                If I were taking stuff like that from place to place I'd want a slender case to store it over that folding plastic setup. It would be a double sided case with a velcro cover between the two halves so when you hinge the top up and over the cover would stop the stuff from falling out. Then the cover would hinge or lift out after unsnapping or opening the velcro. The cover could be a notebook or other item with handy reference charts on it as well.

                If you opt for leather be sure it's the type of leather that won't cause rust. Some do and some don't. Depends on what was used during the tanning process.

                Canvas or even just cotton jeans material can work too. But it'll soak up oil stains a lot faster than leather or plastic.
                Chilliwack BC, Canada


                • #23
                  All you need to do is call a Western saddle maker. They could make you up a really nice professional tool roll that would scream class and expensive. I don't know any in your area. Texas has many that could do this job easily. I live in Germany but could easily make this with custom logo and design.
                  Location: The Black Forest in Germany

                  How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!


                  • #24
                    Have you considered Cordura? I make carpenters tool pouches from 1000d Cordura and it is a nice material and could work out for your idea


                    • #25
                      I appreciate everyone’s insight I think I’m going to go ahead and have a replica tool case made out of better material. I did some research and found out that Starrett used leather and leatherette before using cheaper plastic and those cases have held up for over a century now. See:

                      I like the layout of these cases. It makes it easy to carry the tools and easy to put in a safe drawer. If I ever travel with them, I’ll just put the new tool roll in a foam lined case. If I have the case made a little bigger, I should be able to fit my extension dividers in there!

                      So, couple of questions: Should the case be built around a plywood or polymer frame? I really don’t want that combination square blade to bend while it’s just resting there. I'm pretty sure the backing can be made to be pretty durable. Any ideas for improved tie downs or fasteners? Is this something that any shop should be able to handle?
                      Last edited by mgt3; 01-13-2021, 10:02 PM.


                      • #26
                        If there was an earlier leather or Naugahyde variation then I'm sure that version used thin plywood. If you're going to spring the funds free for a new version I'd suggest 1/16 or slightly thicker G10 epoxi-glass or a carbon and kevlar noneycomb composite over the shoddy old world plywood. The cost for the work to sew the rest of the case up will make the over the top cost for the G10 or carbon honeycomb seem like a pittance.

                        Personally if you know someone in your circle of friends see if anyone has a sewing machine that can handle good quality coated Cordura. And then work with them to see if they can start with the inner Cordura liner and inner layer of G10 and pass rivets through the inner and G10 to secure the nylon webbing straps and snap buttons. Then when that's all secured they stitch on the exterior Cordura with edge binding to make for a very slick and very cleanable case that will last for the rest of your life and the next owner's as well.

                        And if it's not anyone that owes you a favor then treat them to a VERY nice dinner or similar shop favor in return. As someone that can run a sewing machine to make sports and shop items myself making that case is not going to be a small task. You are going to be highly in their debt.

                        Many years ago I didn't like the bath accessory kits at the time. For what I was doing I went crazy and made my own from the coated Cordura material and semi flexible inserts. And a fine netting to hold the toiletries so they could dry instead of growing fungus. It's still around here someplace some 35 years on and it's still useable... if I can find it.

                        At the time I was staying in state campgrounds and other places where I didn't want to set things on the floor. The kit was foldable to hold my towel and fresh undies and it had hooks to hang it up on an edge and a second "square" hook with a sharp point which would bite into and hang from a wooden door. Working with the Cordura was fine. And it's hellishly tough stuff. I'm using some of it now as a liner for my lathe's chip pan and as the ways protector on my mill. Nothing has affected the coated side so far.
                        Chilliwack BC, Canada


                        • #27
                          Coroplast may be stiff enough, cheap enough, light enough, strong enough.. easy to cut..


                          • #28
                            But totally lacking in the panache of carbon skinned nomex honeycomb snuck out from a 5th generation jet fighter production facility.....

                            If we really MUST downgrade I'd also suggest that corrugated plastic might become crimped and stay crimped with some actions. Also over the long term I would wonder about it's ability to hold the rivets that would be used to mount the webbing snap straps even if washers were used.

                            Perhaps 1/16 polycarbonate? Or maybe some slightly thicker .09'ish polypropylene? Then it would have some give but want to return to the original shape. Or given that we're after positive protection for the square perhaps 1/8" UHMW. I've got some pieces of that here and it's pretty stiff. It would easily protect the square from a drop of a table
                            Chilliwack BC, Canada


                            • #29
                              Well...... I have several of the combo square "blades", all of which are old and not bought new by me. Somehow, they have none of them become bent. They are somewhere between 0.093 and 0.125 thick.

                              It strikes me that the only material that will be better than the almost 1/8" thick "blade" is even thicker steel.

                              So I recommend that you use 3/16" steel in a welded box to contain the tools. An option would be to just do the box for the "blade" itself.

                              If you do an FEA run, you may find the minimum thickness of steel that will, when solidly welded into a box form, still withstand 6x the bending force needed to deform the "blade". That should be good enough for ordinary uses.
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                              Hashim Khan

                              It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by 754 View Post
                                Wow, rough crowd on here. . I GUESS not many on here do mobile work ?

                                LoL!! This place is called Home Shop Machinist. Not Mobile Shop Machinist. No really, says it right in the URL JR

                                My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group