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Standing Drill Press table modification

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  • #16
    I have the drill press table 99% finished. It works a treat. Being able to use the fixturing table tooling is a big plus. I can set stops on the 50mm grid and locate the workpiece easily. Say for instance I need to drill holes in the corner of a plate. I can set my stops in seconds and drill the holes in each corner just by sliding the plate into the stops. I should have done this years ago. The hold down clamps work perfectly. Really fast to clamp something down. I spotted the holes on my mill to get the spacing as close as I could to a 50mm grid. Then I took the new table and mounted it on the drill press and drill the grid holes. First with an 8mm drill and then a 15.5mm drill. Then reamed them to 16.02mm. The tooling works perfectly in the holes. Because the original drill press table swings and rotates it was much faster to do the drilling and reaming on the drill press. I would have done it on the mill but my power feeds are not working and cranking the knee up and down got old real fast. Between spotting, drilling and reaming I had over 200 holes to do.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	finished table 2.jpg
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ID:	1924544
    Location: The Black Forest in Germany

    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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    • #17
      I did mount it on standoffs to make it easier to blow out the chips. I just hold the air gun in the space between the new table and old and I can blow out the chips and oil easily. If I bolted it directly to the old table my holes would fill up with chips and oil and be very difficult to keep clean. I was amazed at how much the table got lightened with the removal of the material from drilling the 51 holes.
      Location: The Black Forest in Germany

      How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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      • #18
        This has been said, but I really like the looks of that clamp. Not clear to me how it locks down - just because there will necessarily be some "tilt" in the hole it fits into, or is there something I'm not seeing?
        "A machinist's (WHAP!) best friend (WHAP! WHAP!) is his hammer. (WHAP!)" - Fred Tanner, foreman, Lunenburg Foundry and Engineering machine shop, circa 1979

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        • #19
          Originally posted by mickeyf View Post
          This has been said, but I really like the looks of that clamp. Not clear to me how it locks down - just because there will necessarily be some "tilt" in the hole it fits into, or is there something I'm not seeing?
          for the clamps it is just a hole and as you say a "tilt" that holds it in the hole. The stops that you see in the picture are more complicated. They have balls at the bottom that get pushed out against the champfer of the holes when the top is twisted. It is just a fancy bolt that when screwed down displaces the balls. They can be tightened with an allen wrench if needed. I still need to flip my plate over and counter bore all those holes so the balls have a place to go. As it is they don't really hold well enough to use as stops for repeatability. That is a job for tomorrow.
          Location: The Black Forest in Germany

          How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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          • #20
            Metric push button nuts?

            Come on over, I have THREE of them. (I am busy now, but will post a photo later.)

            And they are fairly easy to make in any size you want.

            Edit: Photos:

            Click image for larger version  Name:	P037Crop800x318.JPG Views:	0 Size:	98.5 KB ID:	1924668 That is an M8 push button nut on an M8 bolt.

            Here are the three parts:

            Click image for larger version  Name:	P034Crop800x440.JPG Views:	0 Size:	120.2 KB ID:	1924669 The ring has an axial, 8mm clearance hole and a radial hole to fit the button. The button has one hole which is first tapped M8 and then an 8mm+ milling cutter is used with an offset from the original axis to eliminate the threads on the button side of that hole while the threads on the spring side retain their threads. So when the spring pushes it outward, the threads engage and it operates like any nut. But when you push the button, the threads are disengaged and you can quickly slide it up or down the threaded stud or bolt. Perfect for adjusting the depth stop on a drill press or even on a milling machine. I have used several of these on drill press depth stops and they show no sign of releasing from their setting either from vibration nor from the pressure when they are ending the downward feed. I have one with a 20 TPI thread that I am going to use on my big drill press as soon as I can get a round tuit. It has a scale that is marked in thousandths of an inch.

            As I said, I have three of these. I will send this one free to the first person who is willing to provide the shipping fee.



            Originally posted by dian View Post
            show me a metric push buton nut.

            radial slots are usesless. mdf a good idea. i use toggle clamps installed in the corners (pull down).
            Last edited by Paul Alciatore; 01-30-2021, 02:30 AM.
            Paul A.
            SE Texas

            And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
            You will find that it has discrete steps.

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            • #21
              I finally got to use my new drill press table that I made. It was a huge time saver in drilling a bunch of plates. I only show four plates in the video but you get the idea. I probably didn't need the hold down clamp but I used it anyway just to show how easy and practical it is to use. Imagine if I had to tap the holes I drilled and how fast it would be with a tapping head on my drill press.
              https://youtu.be/ZgsjBga1xi8
              Location: The Black Forest in Germany

              How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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              • #22
                I like those clamps, but I don't like the handles sticking up so high. For most of what I do, they would be getting in the way. I would be cutting the handles off and milling a square on the remaining ends of the threaded rods for a wrench. Much lower profile.
                I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                • #23
                  Like a hot knife through butter. You make it look easy.
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.

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