What did you screw up today?

[wierdscience]

I made a batch of tee-nuts for the recently bought Sherline lathe along with a couple turret stye toolposts. I thought I was done, then noticed I set the z- wrong and got the two steps on the tee nuts backwards. I saved them, but another setup and cycling 20 pieces back through the mill....sigh

[Tim Clarke]

Ya, but, they ARE pretty!

[Cenedd]

Can't it be snaked from inside the house?
Maybe this issue can't be fixed with a widget made on your lathe or mill and requires a drains specialist with proper tools?

You're right in the last point but the pump is only to buy time - like so I can sleep if it's due to rain!
I've had people out with a camera on 60m of snake and some form of toothed whirligig on a snake. They can get out of my house and under next door but no further and cannot see once the camera goes into water.

Ridgerunner That's sort of what I'm working on for my current stab-in-the-dark theory. It seems there should be a manhole for every two houses and they seem to be roughly in a line. Working on what parts of my garden and next door's have been dug up and extending a line between the two adjacent manholes gives me the concrete slab under my neighbor's decking. My fear is that we destroy a chunk of his garden and it's not there.... because what idiot pours a concrete slab over a manhole?!

boslab That sounds like an .... unappealing job. Glad I didn't have to do it. I'm somewhat of a germophobe so this much is a trial. What has to be done has to be done though.

Paul Alciatore Easily done despite what you think. Checking something often doesn't help as you just read what you're expecting rather than what's there. I've done far more frustratingly daft things

[reggie_obe]

You're right in the last point but the pump is only to buy time - like so I can sleep if it's due to rain!
I've had people out with a camera on 60m of snake and some form of toothed whirligig on a snake. They can get out of my house and under next door but no further and cannot see once the camera goes into water.

Toothed whirligig is a root cutter head.
I've seen the images from swver cams and they have no issue with standing water. Maybe you hired the wrong guy.
In any case, your rain downspouts join the sanitary sewer, that's the real issue overwhelming your drain, isn't it? Can you pump the rain water out to the curb?
The person with the sewer cam couldn't run it in until it hit the first obstruction and give a distance measurement? That either another basin (junction/clean-out) or the clog itself.

[J Tiers]

.................
In any case, your rain downspouts join the sanitary sewer, that's the real issue overwhelming your drain, isn't it? ...................

Sounds like it. That's illegal to connect here, but if it is already connected, it can stay for now. Up in St Paul MN, they forced everyone to disconnect the downspouts from the sewer, and made them run the downspouts out at least 6 foot into the yard.

It's a big problem when there is a "combined" sewer. Sewers here regularly overflow through pressure relief outlets into natural streams during heavy rains. They stink as a result, and the EPA is making the sewer department fix it.

[Cenedd]

Don't think it's that to be honest. No other drains - mine, neighbour on same manhole or any other houses are having this problem. It's rather sounding like it may have been done badly in the first place or at the very least connected to an inappropriate drain. There's definitely got to be some sort of block between where my pipe joins next door's rainwater pipe and where those ought to drain to - that's the only way I can think of for rainwater (which it must be) to come back up my pipe. Original builder has Covid....but at least took my call this time.
Confirmed with local planning that there are no plans for the drains and sewers here.

Plan is to run the camera down a drain that doesn't have a problem and use the distance and approx direction to confirm location of the manhole - rather than taking potshots at my neighbour's garden. Then we need to address this problem and also connect our toilet to a more appropriate drain - one that doesn't carry rain water. This is going to mean digging up some of the new kitchen that went in at the tail end of last year as well as a good chunk of the garden (to join the other drain - if it's where I think it is). My wife is thrilled!

My latest hair-brained idea is to get Amazon to rush me a child's paddling pool (no local stock until April so I couldn't pick one up). The toilet is currently not stuck/screwed down and can move slightly on it's pipe. So I intend to put it IN the paddling pool to contain any overflow. Cheap insurance for a better night's sleep!

[reggie_obe]

Builder can't or won't put you in touch with the person(s) that did the plumbing work?

[Cenedd]

The builder did the plumbing work himself....cos he knew what he was doing. Turns out, not so much.

[J Tiers]

Did anyone else do anything since? Especially anything that needed a pipe run underground by one of those "digging heads"?

It would not be the first time one of those things punched right through a drain, blocking it.

Other than that, any trees on the probable path? Especially willows? We had a big root knob blocking ours before we had it lined.

[Cenedd]

No, nobody has disturbed anything since this toilet was connected back in September. We did find a water main drilled through the clay pipe resulting in rain water soaking away under the house but that's been removed.
The forecast now has tomorrow's rain starting later so the paddling pool should arrive before the rain....which is something. Pump will probably arrive after the rain but at least I'm covered. It also amuses me to think of the pickers at Amazon wondering what sort of idiot wants to put their kid in a paddling pool in January....and quite why they need to do so urgently

[Dave C]

This was actually a few weeks ago when turning off the zinc coating on a 6" length of 4-1/2" galvanized pipe. This pipe will be the extension welded into the log splitters hydraulic reservoir. I knew better than to be doing this with so little purchase in the jaws of a 3 jaw chuck, but was too lazy to change to the 4 jaw. It was shortly after taking this pic that the part jumped out of the chuck, and destroyed the carbide tip of the tool bit. Needless to say, the chuck was switched to a 4 jaw before finishing the od, and boring the id.

[Bented]

This was actually a few weeks ago when turning off the zinc coating on a 6" length of 4-1/2" galvanized pipe. This pipe will be the extension welded into the log splitters hydraulic reservoir. I knew better than to be doing this with so little purchase in the jaws of a 3 jaw chuck

Put a plug in the end of such parts and force them into the chuck using a live center in the tail stock.

10" long hollow brass mandrel, the aluminum part in the end is a plug that fits closely into the ID, it will never come out of the chuck this way.

[Bented]

Also when using full circumference soft jaws with a sub .060" pocket push the part in with a flat plug, this part does not have a central hole so an actual center can not be used, the flat center plug is simply pushing the part into the jaw pocket.

[mickeyf]

turning off the zinc coating on a 6" length of 4-1/2" galvanized pipe.

Many decades ago I was tasked with turning a bunch of galvanized parts on a turret lathe. They got hot enough that I got metal fume poisoning - flushing, fever, headache, other issues. I staggered home, and when I came back I told the foreman I was not gonna do that particular job any more. Be careful around zinc! You certainly want to remove it before welding, but it can get hot enough to cause issues in other ways, as I discovered.

[Dave C]

Bented, I did say I was too lazy to do it the right way. The first time anyhow. Kind of hard to bore the ID with the tailstock jamming the part into the chuck tho. Actually I did the bore after welding the face plate on one end of the pipe and held that end in the chuck.