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  • #46
    Is that an Mt2 or Mt3 taper ? Using it ? ... man for me seems I used it every week... at least lots..

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    • #47
      [QUOTE=Tim The Grim;n1926156]Very happy with my new Shars / Discount Machine boring head. /QUOTE]

      Very nice.

      You are not in London are you? I am just curious. England?

      Just testing....

      JR

      My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

      https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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      • #48
        Originally posted by epicfail48 View Post


        Man, yall with the giant industrial tools are making me jealous. Mines a smaller, shop-made deal. Maybe one day ill actually get around to using it...
        Yeah well. Some of those industrial things IMO dont match up to a home grown unit like what you made. JR
        My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

        https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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        • #49
          Seeing that nice shop made boring tool, made me think of getting an R8, or MT2 arbor with a soft blank end to make a small one, and avoiding part of the work.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by old mart View Post
            Seeing that nice shop made boring tool, made me think of getting an R8, or MT2 arbor with a soft blank end to make a small one, and avoiding part of the work.
            Funny story, thats not actually too far off from what i did for mine. My lathe doesnt have any way to turn an MT3 taper and i didnt feel like buying a machinable arbor. I did have some spare MT3-JT2 arbors hanging about though, so what i did was turn the JT2 end down to 5/8"-11 thread and then cut a matching thread in the boring head body. Added bonus is if i ever move to an R8 machine, i can keep the boring head

            In hindsight, it was a bad idea. My lathe did NOT like cutting that thread in such tough steel...

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            • #51
              Why can't your lathe cut a Morse taper ?

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              • #52
                Originally posted by 754 View Post
                Why can't your lathe cut a Morse taper ?
                7x14 mini lathe, compound slide travel is too short for a full MT3, no taper attachment. Suppose i couldve offset the tailstock and turned it between centers, but im actually not sure the tailstock would have enough adjustment to get the proper angle

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by epicfail48 View Post

                  7x14 mini lathe, compound slide travel is too short for a full MT3, no taper attachment. Suppose i couldve offset the tailstock and turned it between centers, but im actually not sure the tailstock would have enough adjustment to get the proper angle
                  It won't take much offset to cut an MT3 taper. Why not give it a try?

                  -js
                  There are no stupid questions. But there are lots of stupid answers. This is the internet.

                  Location: SF Bay Area

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                  • #54
                    From left to right, A 4" MLA-7 boring and facing head made from a kit. A 3" criterion, a 2" criterion and a 2" no-name import.
                    I had the import for about five years and avoided boring because it was so hit or miss. I picked up the other three in one lot at an auction. The three and four inch heads are too big for my Tormach because the the slowest useable speed is somewhere between 200 and 150 rpm. And it looses all of it's torque down in that range. I keep them around on the off chance that I need to use a 3/4" bar in a deep bore. The facing feature on the MLA-7 is kinda neat. There is no comparison between the import and the criterion heads. Click image for larger version

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                    • #55
                      Don't offset tailstock, I would use the compound , even if too short. . Do it in two settings if need be.
                      besides if you use a drawbar, who needs full length ? Can't try to cut a taper, I don't get it ?
                      Last edited by 754; 02-08-2021, 12:01 AM.

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Jim Stewart View Post

                        It won't take much offset to cut an MT3 taper. Why not give it a try?

                        -js
                        Yea, I had though a bit ago. Then I remembered. Sure, the lathe will make a mill, the mill can not. Still.

                        The 7X lathes are one of the best things that came around for us home shop machinists.

                        I got one, its label was cummins or something. It was yellow, JR
                        My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                        https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by 754 View Post
                          Don't offset tailstock, I would use the compound , even if too short. . Do it in two settings if need be.
                          besides if you use a drawbar, who needs full length ..........
                          I've done a number of MT3 tapers, for tool holders and mill arbors. Used the compound every time. The compound on the Logan is only a 2 3/8" travel, so rather than mess about trying to get two separately cut areas to be in line, I just cut as much as I could, and then undercut the rest. There has never been a problem with any of them.

                          When I get the Rivett done, I will have a 5" travel compound, which will make nearly any taper I would want. It also has a very strange proprietary taper on the tailstock, for which I have never seen a spec. First job will probably be to duplicate that, once the machine is running. I have a drawing for the tailstock ram, and it just says "make to gauge".
                          2801 3147 6749 8779 4900 4900 4900

                          Keep eye on ball.
                          Hashim Khan


                          It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.

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                          • #58
                            The Smart & Brown model A at the museum has a taperturning attachment graduated in 1/2 degrees. I set it up using trigonometry, a 6" length bar to produce a MT2 taper. Fortunately, I was able to offer up a MT2 socket without breaking down the setup, and it took at least two fine adjustments before the socket felt like it was a good fit. An R8 taper would be easier because it is shorter, but getting hold of a suitable gauge might be difficult.
                            Using a male Morse taper set up to run perfectly and adjusting the turning setup against that would be my way of doing it next time.

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by Jim Stewart View Post

                              It won't take much offset to cut an MT3 taper. Why not give it a try?

                              -js
                              What would I do with another mt3 taper blank? I already have the boring head

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                              • #60
                                Found this at a flea market, Looks shop-made, at least part of it does.
                                Attached Files

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