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Over-engineered drawer ideas please

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  • #16
    jcfx Thanks for that. I've not found anything quite the same on eBay but it's good to know that it's not suck a stupid idea that it doesn't exist. What sort of thickness is the steel for a full depth drawer and what sort of load do you think it would take?

    The dust, I was purely thinking that I'm an ideal world there would be decent separation between grinding type operations and things with slides. My entire workshop is probably about the sort of dimensions that would be recommended as the gap between such operations So my bench grinder is literally going to be underneath one of these drawers. I'm working on decent dust extraction but currently, like everything else at the moment, it's fighting me on every step I take to achieve that.

    In terms of "galvanised" my welding knowledge just about extends to knowing that zinc is bad but as someone (forgive me for being too lazy for looking up who!) said in another thread: that sounds like a brazing job. That, I think, will come down to whether TIG welding can be had for beer.

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    • #17
      BCRider I nearly missed that in cross-posts. Thanks for that. I was blissfully unaware of the aspect ratio issue so that's helpful to know. I've got a depth of about 600mm (24") and width of 870mm (34"). I had got in mind as wide as possible within that space - you know when you just have an idea in your head and it's difficult to let that go? Wide, shallow height and metal were that image. But it sounds like splitting it in two would address both aspect ratio and span issues. I couldn't really say why I have metal in mind over wood. It could just be that most of my experience with wooden drawers is of the nasty chipboard with thin saggy bottoms variety.
      Which am I set up best for? Well, neither if I'm honest. If it doesn't fit on a tiny mill or spin on a lathe, it involves an outdoor bench vise (SuperJaws bench) and hand or hand-held tools.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Cenedd View Post
        jcfx Thanks for that. I've not found anything quite the same on eBay but it's good to know that it's not suck a stupid idea that it doesn't exist. What sort of thickness is the steel for a full depth drawer and what sort of load do you think it would take?

        The dust, I was purely thinking that I'm an ideal world there would be decent separation between grinding type operations and things with slides. My entire workshop is probably about the sort of dimensions that would be recommended as the gap between such operations So my bench grinder is literally going to be underneath one of these drawers. I'm working on decent dust extraction but currently, like everything else at the moment, it's fighting me on every step I take to achieve that.

        In terms of "galvanised" my welding knowledge just about extends to knowing that zinc is bad but as someone (forgive me for being too lazy for looking up who!) said in another thread: that sounds like a brazing job. That, I think, will come down to whether TIG welding can be had for beer.
        You may want to look at new ones for specs on rack mount drawers, my cursory look at deep rack mount drawers has them rated at 45-50lbs.
        and and they seem to be geared more towards electronic components ( they have a ventilated bottom ) in regards to the load rating that
        may be what the slides are rated not the sheet metal.

        I'm confused at where those drawers are going to be, your initial post said that the drawers were going to be mounted underneath a work bench,
        now your saying the bench grinder is under the drawers, wouldn't you put the grinder on the bench above the drawers ??
        Personally I wouldn't worry too much about grit in ball bearing glides, they're pretty well protected when installed.

        Welding zinc coated items is bad, brazing is no better in my opinion since brazing temps are near zincs vaporization point ( 850 C ) which is why I said soldering.
        Soldering will also save you the grief of removing the zinc coating too.
        If you go the shop made route spot welding is another option, if you know someone with a spot welder, and as others have said there's nothing wrong with
        making your drawers out of wood, but sheet metal definitely has it's fabrication coolness factor.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Cenedd View Post
          BCRider ....I've got a depth of about 600mm (24") and width of 870mm (34"). I had got in mind as wide as possible within that space ........I couldn't really say why I have metal in mind over wood. It could just be that most of my experience with wooden drawers is of the nasty chipboard with thin saggy bottoms variety.

          Which am I set up best for? Well, neither if I'm honest. If it doesn't fit on a tiny mill or spin on a lathe, it involves an outdoor bench vise (SuperJaws bench) and hand or hand-held tools.
          Long term I think you'd be happier in how it works by splitting that into two drawers. For starters narrow drawers will automatically be stiffer/stronger despite a fairly thin bottom. So that neatly cuts off your concern over droopy bottoms... insert amused snort if you wish Another thing to consider since you're the fellow with the closet sized sardine can shop is that having two drawers means you can step to the side and open one of them fully to reach the stuff at the back without needing to perform contortions. Or have I misread how tight things are in front of your bench?

          Since it's starting to look like you don't really have a preferred build method or material I'm leaning back to the idea of the aluminium angle with something like 18Ga sheet metal bottoms. You've got limited space for the drawers and lots of stuff to put in them and using metal of some form gives you the most inside room within the allowable outside dimensions. I'm also liking the idea of the framing being made using the extruded aluminium angle and sheet metal bottom for the ease of cutting and assembling. And the lack of cost for the services of a fancy sheet metal shop. Although I think it might still be worth asking for a quote to get an idea for the option. It may end up about the same or only slightly more. And in that case it becomes an option.

          Another thing you might consider depending on the room below the bench top is since we're talking shallow drawers that you consider the idea of four drawers in total since we're only talking about 1.5" angle stock. That would give you three drawers in a total of only about 3 1/8" vertical room. Or perhaps do something a little fancier and make the top drawer 1.5" (results in about 1.3 or so inside depth) and the lower with a slightly different makeup to be more like 2.5 to 3" depth for slightly bulkier items?
          Chilliwack BC, Canada

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          • #20
            Ah, I think I see the confusion now. When I said "under the bench" I meant under the work surface rather than at floor level. This was quite clear.....in my head Beneath the work surface is currently open space down as far as the bottom deck which is slightly above the ground - enough for shoving things under but not proper, organised storage. This middle space (between bottom deck and work surface is filled with assorted things including the shop vac (connected to outboard cyclone and bin) and my bench grinder that now sits sideways and slides out on a shelf.

            ...and yes, BCRider mine is the workshop that's more like a cupboard...but I'm still fairly good at contortions It could probably be argued that shallower drawers might be wiser so they don't pull out most of the way to the wall but I think I'd rather have the extra space and just store less frequently used things towards the back. I had considered the idea of stacked drawers but I don't think I have the free height and it does up the complexity a bit. Could always add them later if it goes well and space gets reorganised.

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            • #21
              I have made a bench with 120 cm wide drawers and only 40 cm deep. That is a ratio of 3:1. The telescoping drawerslides works fine independently from where the drawer is opened(handle is full width). Sometimes the drawer sticks out 5mm in one end when it has rolled shut but a light bump fixes that. I am now building a second drawer bench with the exact same measurements. I am contemplating having all the slides mounted at an angle, maybe 1-2 mm inclination so they are self shutting...🤔

              IMO steel thickness of 1,0 mm is enough. A small downward cross bend over the drawer bottoms in a X-pattern would resolve possible bottom hang.

              Pictures here: (build pictures some pages back...)
              https://www.maskinisten.net/p3954693
              Last edited by bond77; 02-16-2021, 04:19 PM.
              /J-A
              A list of all my project threads(with lots and lots of pictures)
              My youtube channel

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              • #22
                I gotta make some of those roll out bins. For the shop and the bedroom.

                But, just how do you keep your shop floor so clean?



                Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post
                I built these Floor Drawers out of 1/8” steel ,if you have vacant floor space under Bench’s or Cabinets. Click image for larger version

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                Paul A.
                SE Texas

                And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                You will find that it has discrete steps.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
                  I gotta make some of those roll out bins. For the shop and the bedroom.

                  But, just how do you keep your shop floor so clean?




                  I’m not going to lie Paul floor not always that clean,sometimes it looks like Boar Nests.

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