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  • #16
    Boy --- thanks Jim for paying attention to all that, so you read that part about things totally switching in the scales --- and I might add the "glitch" was then the same kind of identical glitch when it went from one scale to the other, like when you move the mills handle of the scale going through the glitch it's just the last 2/10ths that kinda flutters and the rest really does not read - although once in awhile does and "jumps" to a new number,,, the glitch transfers and transfers the same,,,

    so did you read and see the pics in post 58 of the "is this a bad cap" title? I absolutely had a black ground pin from the X harness that was intermittently being connected to the main center chassis ground pin in the center of the connector --- are they both grounds and does it matter or could this have shorted something out? thanks for taking the time and giving me some credit to nosing around...

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    • #17
      You could try something easily: run external ground wires between the sensors and the head. Ground loops are unpredictable. OTOH, don't dismiss the Egyptian curse idea. Happens more often than you'd think in electronics.

      -js
      There are no stupid questions. But there are lots of stupid answers. This is the internet.

      Location: SF Bay Area

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      • #18
        Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
        Boy --- thanks Jim for paying attention to all that, so you read that part about things totally switching in the scales....
        I know... I read all the previous thread. The mere fact that the glitch jumped from "X" to "Y" indicates that the problem is in the wiring, cables or scales. As for the jumping scales, each reader (X, Y and Z) are INDEPENDENT of each other - the only thing they have in common is the power supply. So, unless you inadvertently imported a evil Chinese gremlin that is banging your internal electronics with his hammer, look OUTSIDE that box for your problems.

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        • #19
          Jim can you tell me what "sensors" and what "head" ? do you mean the grounds at the pick ups down by the reader heads to somewhere ? sorry I don't know the lango --- but do understand the Egyptian thing lol

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          • #20
            SLK maybe i'll pull the scales again tomorrow and test all the leads to the reader head --- im pretty sure iv already done this a couple years ago but now Iv done so much I can't remember anymore... so to be sure i'll try it

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            • #21
              Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
              Jim can you tell me what "sensors" and what "head" ? do you mean the grounds at the pick ups down by the reader heads to somewhere ? sorry I don't know the lango --- but do understand the Egyptian thing lol
              Yep, you've got it. And yes, don't rely on memories from a couple of years ago. Do it all over now! And, BTW, it's always a good idea to keep notes as you go.

              -js
              There are no stupid questions. But there are lots of stupid answers. This is the internet.

              Location: SF Bay Area

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              • #22
                Well then there's only one way to go here, the saga continues - the show goes on, it ain't over till it's over, im going to get another crummy nights sleep and hit it in the morning with a half baked mind...

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                • #23
                  Yes, crystals very seldom go bad.

                  After reading this thread, I wonder if one of your chips is going bad. Perhaps the processor. Perhaps due to heat. I would probably try to make it go bad with a heat gun and if that happens, then try some freeze spray and see if that instantly fixes it. I have seen a lot more problems in electronics due to ageing chips and heat than to bad crystals. A LOT more. Actually, in over 45 years of electronic troubleshooting, I have never had a bad crystal.



                  Originally posted by SLK001 View Post
                  No... you're not on to something. If ANY of the XTALs (crystals) were bad, you wouldn't be seeing any numbers change on the display.
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
                    Well then there's only one way to go here, the saga continues - the show goes on, it ain't over till it's over, im going to get another crummy nights sleep and hit it in the morning with a half baked mind...
                    One other thing that can cause issues like this is bad power. What I would do would be to replace my switching PS with a linear one and see if that clears it up.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by SLK001 View Post

                      One other thing that can cause issues like this is bad power. What I would do would be to replace my switching PS with a linear one and see if that clears it up.
                      I wish I knew what all that means --- is it something that fits in place of the PS that's inside my DRO box or is it like a separate wall wart or what,

                      I will throw this out real quick just for testing purposes, I have an individual hybrid battery stick from my car, I can take it down to 5 volts (dc of course) it's nickle metal hydride, is that pure enough power to do a test with it and see how my main unit behaves ???

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post

                        I wish I knew what all that means --- is it something that fits in place of the PS that's inside my DRO box or is it like a separate wall wart or what,

                        I will throw this out real quick just for testing purposes, I have an individual hybrid battery stick from my car, I can take it down to 5 volts (dc of course) it's nickle metal hydride, is that pure enough power to do a test with it and see how my main unit behaves ???
                        That will work just fine. Disconnect your current PS and solder the output of your battery stick to the points on the main board where the old PS went. Be sure to keep the polarities the same as the old.

                        By "bad power", I mean the power supply has too much noise on it for the digital electronics to work properly.

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                        • #27
                          Have you tried removing and re-seating any ICs that are in sockets? I have sometimes found one that has a bent or broken pin that barely made contact and became intermittent.

                          Without reasonable test equipment like a good DMM and scope, you are just "spit-balling", and from your remarks it's obvious that you are confused and frustrated. For well under $100 you should be able to get a decent DMM (Digital Multimeter) and DSO (Digital Storage Oscilloscope). I suspect that for some reason the pulses coming from the scales are noisy or distorted, which could be easily seen on a cheap scope. And the other possibility as previously mentioned is noise in the 5 VDC logic supply, which again can be examined with a scope.

                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hantek-6022...z/222745314479 (from China)

                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/FNIRSI-1C15...s/114618820016 (From China)

                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/DSO112A-Dig...s/163977520096 (only 2 MHz but ships from KY)

                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hantek-6022...S/283861178799 (20 MHz, ships from CA)

                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oscilloscop...r/254694797287 (25 MHz ships from NJ)

                          http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
                          Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
                          USA Maryland 21030

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by SLK001 View Post

                            That will work just fine. Disconnect your current PS and solder the output of your battery stick to the points on the main board where the old PS went. Be sure to keep the polarities the same as the old.

                            By "bad power", I mean the power supply has too much noise on it for the digital electronics to work properly.
                            At least it's one down and another theory eliminated --- I did not hear back from you guys but just figured that pure DC voltage from a battery would most likely be alright so I built up the correct amount of cells and charged them and then drained a little to get what the AC/DC unit was putting out @ 5.10 volts, I did not solder anything in I just soldered two leads on the end of the power wires that then fit/stabbed into the removed power harness that i kept hanging out of the unit's box,

                            No change... exact same behavior... so i am going to remove the scales i think and check all the connections from them to the main display unit just to make sure...

                            SLK - I do thank you for that suggestion (and others who made it as it sounds important) as it made me think of what I could build on hand to test, that's what this is all about - time on my hands sometimes and don't want to dip into the funds and start replacing stuff without being sure... the hybrid battery sticks are the bomb, they are nothing more than 1.5 volt D size batterys all ran in series of 6 per stick - I nixed 2 out of an already failed stick --- took the one culprit out in the process and ended up with the right amount of cells that I could use to power the unit... after draining some off the top....
                            Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 02-20-2021, 09:13 PM.

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                            • #29
                              One more thing to do with the cells attached. Disconnect BOTH scales and see if there are any strange behaviors. At least we have eliminated the PS as the culprit.

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                              • #30
                                Ok thanks i'll check that in the monyatta --- I have done that before and the readout reads the memory of the last position and that's it - no flickers just plain numbers, if I see anything different than that i'll let you know and yeah totally agree the PS is no longer in the picture so the focus gets more intense on the real problemo thanks...

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