Originally posted by dian
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My mini repeat-o-meter
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Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.
Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
Monarch 10EE 1942
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Your second link does not work. I assume that you kept your hand on the repeat-o-meter for 15 or 20 minutes while not moving it and the meter either did not move or just moved a little.
I have to say that if at least two different manufacturers of these devices both use handles to minimize the effects of body heat, then it is probably a very good idea. I can easily see the rear section bowing from heat at the top and the would push the probe end down. And the reverse would occur when the heat source (hand) is removed.
I think I would even use wood or plastic studs to attach them to the body of the repeat-o-meter.
Originally posted by Peter. View PostRepeat-o-meter in action.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i5l51b8qjg...meter.mp4?dl=0
The comments about hand heat afffecting the reading made me wonder about it so I made this 3 minute video - speeded up x8:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zbiymvzmqm...0heat.mp4?dl=0Paul A.
SE Texas
And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
You will find that it has discrete steps.
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I don't know how it got deleted Paul, but I have restored it now. Must have been a slip of the keyboard.
Half a micron in 3 minutes of solid gripping doesn't fill me with dread but the most important thing is it swung the wrong way for it to be heat input - I think it was just my arm getting tired. You can affect the reading by varying the pressure whch I think is likely part of the reason for the spindly handle on the factory ones - to stop you resting on the tool. Either way, it's a comparator not so just like clocking in a part in the chuck you read the difference not the absolute value. It still works exactly the same.
Anyway, didn't you guys notice I was wearing a glove when I was using it?Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.
Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
Monarch 10EE 1942
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I did notice the glove. And I find it puzzling that it went down instead of up.
You said it is made from a slab of CI. I wonder if there could be some internal stresses that cause it to move in an unexpected direction with a moderate application of heat.Paul A.
SE Texas
And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
You will find that it has discrete steps.
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repeat-o-meter
Are you guys still repeatometering? Cool..
Wasnt that thing I showed you guys the kind of a repeated kind of meter you needed? Three nice drop indicators.
I figured out the granite plate after messing with it. Was to synch them in, sorta calibrating them. Nice granite block fyi.
Three point all already calibrated on a nice lil granite surface plate. That happens to come from some place that does that lol Granite cutting board would work well as a working plate.
So that three prong re-peat-o meter? LOL.. No,,,, It is some kind of devise. I am still lookingJR
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Originally posted by Peter. View Post
Yes all the feet are flat Angular movement is unimortant because 1. The gauge directly reads the vertical movement of the front foot and 2. It's a comparator so even if there is a tiny error it's unimportant, it's comparative results that you look for.
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Originally posted by dian View Post
why look for comparative results? you want to know how much the plate is off, no? of course the error is small, but its there.Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.
Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
Monarch 10EE 1942
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Originally posted by Peter. View PostWell thank you.
Yes the shoe falls under it's own weight until it closes the gap both directions. It actually has a little 'down' spring caused I think by the clamping of the blade.
I think I will put in those flutes just to save it slipping from my hand, thanks for the good idea.
I forgot to say that I had to surface grind a spacer for the gap in order to grind the four feet all on the same plane. With the spacer in there and the part inverted on the mag chuck, the weight of the shoe was enough to keep the whole lot flat.
Any thoughts of some sort of a locking devise to secure the two halves together so the shoe doesn't drop when you pick it up??
I was thinking a long screw that would go straight down through the top and into the shoe.
Thread straight through the top and into the top of the shoe so the threads line up. The screw would prevent the shoe from dropping, or moving up when your handling it. When you set it on the surface plate remove the screw. Good safety feature.
How about a finish for it?? a nice black wrinkle finish would look professional.
JL........
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Originally posted by Peter. View Post
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r5n3akvad9...%2001.mp4?dl=0
Last edited by Peter.; 04-22-2021, 06:42 PM.Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.
Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
Monarch 10EE 1942
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Originally posted by dian View Posti wonder if could see any difference if you map it out with a (sturdier) surface gage.
Anyway, now that I have got the surface of this plate flat locally and globally to (the equivalent of) grade AA I am going to work on my much larger one. That one will be a challenge with a small lap and also given that if you draw a line across the diagonal one half is grade A flat and the other has a mountain range along one edge.
Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.
Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
Monarch 10EE 1942
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