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  • #46
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
    I'll say that again for emphasis: EVERY cold saw I've ever used had a fine-toothed, carbide-tipped blade in it, designed specifically for steels. I have no idea why anyone would use a HSS blade, except that's what the saw comes with just to get you started.
    The saw a Doringer, was bought used and shipped to Doringer for a rebuild. It came with 2, 100 tooth blades from the factory which worked well on the steel tube, strip and solids it cut.
    https://doringer.com/product/genuine...old-sawblades/
    The blade was taken to Forrest which makes, re-tooths and resharpens circular blades of all types. They asked about the machine it was on and material typically cut, didn't recommend a change and said it would be ready next day.
    https://www.forrestblades.com/

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    • #47
      Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

      If the blade was not carbide tipped then he was doing it wrong.
      The Blade was German made Carbide one, even Carbide has it’s limits.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post
        Even Carbide has it’s limits.
        I can attest to that having dulled a carbide tooth bandsaw blade cutting hard steel using plenty of coolant.

        *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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        • #49
          Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post
          I know someone who tried to shorten an allen wrench with a HSS cold saw blade
          Well, there are some things we should know. Dont flex a HSS blade, EVER!! And run the Carbide tips till they fail. Metal Cutting Chop Saws... and blades....

          I love both!! JR

          P.S. > I meant a solid 14" HSS with no carbide tips.

          Just wanted to make sure.

          HSS slitting saws and slotting saws are always HSS. It is fracture norm if you bind it up.

          Imparting a 90 degree fours' from the arbor, duh

          With a nice slow saw it wont ask if the blade fractured. 14" blade. too much. so dont do it. Money.

          Firm base and go at it with the HSS blade. It does not like to side load. It needs a good down force and steady feed.. JR
          Last edited by JRouche; 03-13-2021, 02:34 AM.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

            That looks pretty slick dian,I’m sure your familiar with the Pferd 40 thou thick zip blades there the best I’ve ever used. ...
            Originally posted by dian View Post
            got a 10-pack for $9 last week.
            Got a link to 10/$9?

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            • #51
              Yeah, if you have very hard tool steel or HSS you don't want to use a cold saw blade. Abrasive cutting is the way to go in that case. But the O.P. topic was about cutting 304SS, and trying to get clean cut ends. A cold saw with a carbide blade will be hard to beat for that task. And a Fein "cold-cut" saw is not a true cold saw - or at least not a very good one. They run at way too high an RPM.

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              • #52
                Originally posted by eKretz View Post
                Yeah, if you have very hard tool steel or HSS you don't want to use a cold saw blade. Abrasive cutting is the way to go in that case. But the O.P. topic was about cutting 304SS, and trying to get clean cut ends. A cold saw with a carbide blade will be hard to beat for that task. And a Fein "cold-cut" saw is not a true cold saw - or at least not a very good one. They run at way too high an RPM.
                The Fein runs 1300 and and others like Evolution &Dewalt run at 1450 rpm.

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

                  The Fein runs 1300 and and others like Evolution &Dewalt run at 1450 rpm.
                  Ant some of the Dake saws run at 350 RPM. Big difference.
                  25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                  • #54
                    Yeah, those budget chop saw dealios are not very good for challenging stuff. There is a world of difference between one of those and one of the big boy cold saws. About like the difference between a crappy Chinese lathe and a Monarch or similar. Totally different class of machine. Not only is the speed way too high, they are not anywhere near as rigid as the good cold saws. Rigidity is important for blade life. Many of those better cold saws have power feed also - another big help to tool/blade life.
                    Last edited by eKretz; 03-13-2021, 07:34 PM.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

                      Ant some of the Dake saws run at 350 RPM. Big difference.
                      Originally posted by eKretz View Post
                      Yeah, those budget chop saw dealios are not very good for challenging stuff. There is a world of difference between one of those and one of the big boy cold saws. About like the difference between a crappy Chinese lathe and a Monarch or similar. Totally different class of machine. Not only is the speed way too high, they are not anywhere near as rigid as the good cold saws. Rigidity is important for blade life. Many of those better cold saws have power feed also - another big help to tool/blade life.
                      I’m sure theirs a huge difference, I have a 8” Handheld Milwaukee Metal Cutting Saw it’s performance is okay only when there’s a guide in place.Not all China Lathes are crappy,I have a 1988 Mazak Clone 18x60 China Lathe that’s very well built.

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

                        Ant some of the Dake saws run at 350 RPM. Big difference.
                        Thay are thinking of different saws man.

                        A Dake with a HSS blade will eat mild steel. JR

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by JRouche View Post

                          Thay are thinking of different saws man.

                          A Dake with a HSS blade will eat mild steel. JR
                          Ah, gotcha. Thanks. Sometimes I lose track of things. The only problem with the Dake saws is that they are pro machines sold to pro shops for thousands. Out of my budget, but I have worked in places that have them.
                          25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

                            Ah, gotcha. Thanks. Sometimes I lose track of things. The only problem with the Dake saws is that they are pro machines sold to pro shops for thousands. Out of my budget, but I have worked in places that have them.
                            Oh yeah, I get it. The Dake I got to use was not mine and the owner of the shop was a friend. I needed to cut several precise angles from several 2x4x1/4" tubes. Worked out well. JR

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