Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rod cuttin

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

    Ah, gotcha. Thanks. Sometimes I lose track of things. The only problem with the Dake saws is that they are pro machines sold to pro shops for thousands. Out of my budget, but I have worked in places that have them.
    Oh yeah, I get it. The Dake I got to use was not mine and the owner of the shop was a friend. I needed to cut several precise angles from several 2x4x1/4" tubes. Worked out well. JR

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by JRouche View Post

    Thay are thinking of different saws man.

    A Dake with a HSS blade will eat mild steel. JR
    Ah, gotcha. Thanks. Sometimes I lose track of things. The only problem with the Dake saws is that they are pro machines sold to pro shops for thousands. Out of my budget, but I have worked in places that have them.

    Leave a comment:


  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

    Ant some of the Dake saws run at 350 RPM. Big difference.
    Thay are thinking of different saws man.

    A Dake with a HSS blade will eat mild steel. JR

    Leave a comment:


  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

    Ant some of the Dake saws run at 350 RPM. Big difference.
    Originally posted by eKretz View Post
    Yeah, those budget chop saw dealios are not very good for challenging stuff. There is a world of difference between one of those and one of the big boy cold saws. About like the difference between a crappy Chinese lathe and a Monarch or similar. Totally different class of machine. Not only is the speed way too high, they are not anywhere near as rigid as the good cold saws. Rigidity is important for blade life. Many of those better cold saws have power feed also - another big help to tool/blade life.
    I’m sure theirs a huge difference, I have a 8” Handheld Milwaukee Metal Cutting Saw it’s performance is okay only when there’s a guide in place.Not all China Lathes are crappy,I have a 1988 Mazak Clone 18x60 China Lathe that’s very well built.

    Leave a comment:


  • eKretz
    replied
    Yeah, those budget chop saw dealios are not very good for challenging stuff. There is a world of difference between one of those and one of the big boy cold saws. About like the difference between a crappy Chinese lathe and a Monarch or similar. Totally different class of machine. Not only is the speed way too high, they are not anywhere near as rigid as the good cold saws. Rigidity is important for blade life. Many of those better cold saws have power feed also - another big help to tool/blade life.
    Last edited by eKretz; 03-13-2021, 07:34 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

    The Fein runs 1300 and and others like Evolution &Dewalt run at 1450 rpm.
    Ant some of the Dake saws run at 350 RPM. Big difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Originally posted by eKretz View Post
    Yeah, if you have very hard tool steel or HSS you don't want to use a cold saw blade. Abrasive cutting is the way to go in that case. But the O.P. topic was about cutting 304SS, and trying to get clean cut ends. A cold saw with a carbide blade will be hard to beat for that task. And a Fein "cold-cut" saw is not a true cold saw - or at least not a very good one. They run at way too high an RPM.
    The Fein runs 1300 and and others like Evolution &Dewalt run at 1450 rpm.

    Leave a comment:


  • eKretz
    replied
    Yeah, if you have very hard tool steel or HSS you don't want to use a cold saw blade. Abrasive cutting is the way to go in that case. But the O.P. topic was about cutting 304SS, and trying to get clean cut ends. A cold saw with a carbide blade will be hard to beat for that task. And a Fein "cold-cut" saw is not a true cold saw - or at least not a very good one. They run at way too high an RPM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

    That looks pretty slick dian,I’m sure your familiar with the Pferd 40 thou thick zip blades there the best I’ve ever used. ...
    Originally posted by dian View Post
    got a 10-pack for $9 last week.
    Got a link to 10/$9?

    Leave a comment:


  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post
    I know someone who tried to shorten an allen wrench with a HSS cold saw blade
    Well, there are some things we should know. Dont flex a HSS blade, EVER!! And run the Carbide tips till they fail. Metal Cutting Chop Saws... and blades....

    I love both!! JR

    P.S. > I meant a solid 14" HSS with no carbide tips.

    Just wanted to make sure.

    HSS slitting saws and slotting saws are always HSS. It is fracture norm if you bind it up.

    Imparting a 90 degree fours' from the arbor, duh

    With a nice slow saw it wont ask if the blade fractured. 14" blade. too much. so dont do it. Money.

    Firm base and go at it with the HSS blade. It does not like to side load. It needs a good down force and steady feed.. JR
    Last edited by JRouche; 03-13-2021, 02:34 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob La Londe
    replied
    Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post
    Even Carbide has it’s limits.
    I can attest to that having dulled a carbide tooth bandsaw blade cutting hard steel using plenty of coolant.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

    If the blade was not carbide tipped then he was doing it wrong.
    The Blade was German made Carbide one, even Carbide has it’s limits.

    Leave a comment:


  • reggie_obe
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
    I'll say that again for emphasis: EVERY cold saw I've ever used had a fine-toothed, carbide-tipped blade in it, designed specifically for steels. I have no idea why anyone would use a HSS blade, except that's what the saw comes with just to get you started.
    The saw a Doringer, was bought used and shipped to Doringer for a rebuild. It came with 2, 100 tooth blades from the factory which worked well on the steel tube, strip and solids it cut.
    https://doringer.com/product/genuine...old-sawblades/
    The blade was taken to Forrest which makes, re-tooths and resharpens circular blades of all types. They asked about the machine it was on and material typically cut, didn't recommend a change and said it would be ready next day.
    https://www.forrestblades.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

    I don’t know how happy a cold cut blade would be on some real hardened pins or dowels,my friend had a $180 oops with a new Fein Blade that he thought would cut a hardened shaft.He said it took about 2 seconds to destroy blade.
    If the blade was not carbide tipped then he was doing it wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    I'll say that again for emphasis: EVERY cold saw I've ever used had a fine-toothed, carbide-tipped blade in it, designed specifically for steels. I have no idea why anyone would use a HSS blade, except that's what the saw comes with just to get you started.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X