Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Working out taper

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Usual deal here- camera no worky. I don't have a cell phone, otherwise I could easily post a picture.

    My cross slide is a rectangular piece with two T slots front to back. The headstock side is perpendicular to the spindle axis. What I did was mill a recess on one long edge of a piece of aluminum. That way I can hold it against the side of the cross slide, and to the top of it. The piece is then aligned to the slide. The top of the piece is at a height where a bar sitting across the top of it can touch the side of the compound without interfering with the gib screws.

    Instead of a bar, I used a piece of plate and milled a half circle on it to carry degree markings. The 'front edge' of the plate is machined for a straight and accurate surface. A carefully made pivot point holds the plate to the bottom part, and I can rotate the upper piece to any degree marking and lock it there. Then with the compound loose I hold the jig in place and set the compound to lay touching this edge all along it.

    I see that I have it set currently at about 1 degree or so- I don't remember what for. There is a tapered hole through the top piece and into the bottom piece, so I can insert a tapered pin and get that exact degree setting back anytime. I did have to make a tapered reamer to make this hole, and of course I would have used the same angle setting to make the pin.

    It's easy to use as the recess in the bottom piece allows it to fit against the cross slide without rocking, and with no misalignment. I slide it front to back so the reference edge can fit up to the compound regardless of the angle setting.

    I know- a picture would tell the story much more understandably-
    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

    Comment


    • #32
      Thanks for all the replies I think I opened a hornets nest, I was wanting to turn the taper on my watchmakers lathe but I am not going to be able to set my cross slide to 1 1/2 deg let alone 1.406 so I think it will have to be a trip to the local engineering company and talk to them very nicely, it’s a shame because I like to make as much as I can myself.
      Many thanks Dell

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by Dell View Post
        Thanks for all the replies I think I opened a hornets nest, I was wanting to turn the taper on my watchmakers lathe but I am not going to be able to set my cross slide to 1 1/2 deg let alone 1.406 so I think it will have to be a trip to the local engineering company and talk to them very nicely, it’s a shame because I like to make as much as I can myself.
        Many thanks Dell
        Not really a hornets nest. More of a spirited conversation, which is common around here. We're all having fun, and learning a few things too.

        Maybe if you can describe in more detail what it is you wish to accomplish, and what tools you have available to you, we can knock heads together and come up with some viable suggestions. Asking questions and participating in conversation while learning new things is what this place is all about.

        Comment


        • #34
          I only have a watchmakers lathe with cross slide and although I have turned a taper with a graver onto a 8mm length of silver steel and it is very close and the chuck is a good firm fit with no wobble it is not quite close enough for drilling a 0.2 hole into a 1mm arbor, if I turn shaft in tailstock I can see it move out of line by about a 1/32” Click image for larger version

Name:	F980F0A0-D011-4104-9AA1-CE047AD5C699.jpeg
Views:	46
Size:	285.4 KB
ID:	1935066
          Attached Files

          Comment

          Working...
          X