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best material for making a quill

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  • best material for making a quill

    Well, I've had it with guessing where my drilled holes decide to land themselves, despite doing everything else right. Decided to try and tackle making a new quill with a bit more OD surface area and a whole lot better fit. Just wondering what you guys think would be the best material to use. My first thought was 1144, then I saw some 4140 pre-hard, then cast iron in the size I needed....now I'm thoroughly stumped. It is for a small bench mill with a little over 3" of quill travel. Had originally planned to have the old one hard chromed and ground until I got to looking at the two flats milled along the gear rack that do nothing but remove contact area with the bore. Figured I'd have better luck making a new. Thoughts on material and why would be much appreciated. Thanks.

  • #2
    Eagle feathers make the best quills, but they're illegal...

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    • #3
      Pictures please. Not sure why a quill would have flats unless there's something against those flats that do SOMETHING!
      Chilliwack BC, Canada

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      • #4
        Do you have an OD grinder and a hone or lap for the bore to fit it ?

        -D
        DZER

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        • #5
          Yeah those flats are not going to be there for looks... They may well be clearance for something. You'd better investigate more closely before deciding to just eliminate them. The chrome and grind sounds like a much better idea to me. If you go ahead with this, before you finish the quill O.D. take a good rigid hone and hone the quill bore so it's round and straight.

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          • #6
            Assuming this is a small far east import mill you can use anything that is fairly stable.
            1144 Stressproof sounds like excellent candidate.
            Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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            • #7
              Is there a keyway?

              If not, then you probably know what the flats are for.
              CNC machines only go through the motions.

              Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
              Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
              Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
              I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
              Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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              • #8
                How about SG cast iron? You will have to find out whether the quill bore in the head is bellmouthed, or the new quill will not be much better than the old one.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by old mart View Post
                  ..........You will have to find out whether the quill bore in the head is bellmouthed, ...........
                  Probably better to say "find out how badly the quill bore is bellmouthed". They mostly seem to be after a bit. At least they usually are if there is viable reason to consider making a new quill.
                  CNC machines only go through the motions.

                  Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                  Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                  Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                  I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                  Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
                    Pictures please. Not sure why a quill would have flats unless there's something against those flats that do SOMETHING!
                    Nothing rides on them. Not clearing any shoulders of any kind on or near the pinion. My guess was it's a leftover design used to clear something or was their way of deburring the rack teeth.

                    No pics, but here's the profile of it:

                    Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      To me chrome is almost a must --- it's hard to find something as tough and durable,

                      some mills have a pinch bolt to tighten the quill bore, is there anyway you could add one and form a elongated vertical slice? you would have to be sure about it as if you fail you turn it to scrap...

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                      • #12
                        Looks like a great place for some 1144 and only the one flat for the rack teeth. Agree that the bore may need to be lapped a bit tho.
                        25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                          Is there a keyway?

                          If not, then you probably know what the flats are for.

                          It does have a slot for a dog tipped screw, obviously to prevent rotation....also acts as a travel stop.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
                            To me chrome is almost a must --- it's hard to find something as tough and durable,

                            some mills have a pinch bolt to tighten the quill bore, is there anyway you could add one and form a elongated vertical slice? you would have to be sure about it as if you fail you turn it to scrap...

                            This does have a lock with a slit. I've tried snugging the slop out of it but noticed the tighter it's snugged, the sooner it stops retracting on its own which tells me the quill has a taper on it. Another reason for a new quill.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Doozer View Post
                              Do you have an OD grinder and a hone or lap for the bore to fit it ?

                              -D

                              No OD grinder here, but access to one if it gets chromed.

                              As far as the bore goes, plan is to disassemble it and map out the ID with a tenth reading Mito bore gage. From there, if it's at least close to being round, I was going to make up a plug gage to proof out what will actually fit before executing.

                              And if it's egged out bad, well guess I'll then be asking how to get it honed out straight and round.

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