Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

best material for making a quill

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Originally posted by oxford View Post
    OP, what’s the make and model of the mill you have so we can get a better idea of what your working with.

    Well as I mentioned earlier, this isn't out of love for machine but more out of necessity. And guys, please don't give me the boot for this but it's an old but lightly used Smithy 1220XL. Yes change-overs suck, but it's all I have room for right now. Trust me, I've long since out grown this thing. That said though, with the massaging's and mods it's gotten over the last 24 years and for the work I need it to do I really can't bitch about it, other than this quill and occasionally the limited travels I'm stuck with. Let the flaming begin.

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by old mart View Post
      The head of the mill could be set up in a large lathe for a clean up of the bore before making the new quill.

      I'm liking the idea of this. I have a Standard Modern 1334 across the street from me, I just can't wrap my head around how I'd set it up safely given all the non-flat surfaces on the head.

      Comment


      • #33
        Stay away from the cast iron. It's nice and dense and stable, but might be too brittle. 1144 would be a better choice. Once you get the hole the quill fits in round and straight will plating your old quill give you enough material so you can grind to fit? That would probably be the easiest out, if possible.

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by tom_d View Post
          Stay away from the cast iron. It's nice and dense and stable, but might be too brittle. 1144 would be a better choice. Once you get the hole the quill fits in round and straight will plating your old quill give you enough material so you can grind to fit? That would probably be the easiest out, if possible.

          I think the one in there now is actually some cast chinesium. But yeah I hear what you're saying. My concern is how the 2 milled flats next to the rack take away from the total load bearing area (see post #10). I'm losing about 1.280 in circumferential distance of bore contact. And every single photo of a quill I've come across is full radius up to the ends of the rack teeth.

          I'll have a better idea of what I need soon as I can get the bore ID mapped out.
          Last edited by Barefoot; 03-15-2021, 08:22 PM.

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by Barefoot View Post


            I'm liking the idea of this. I have a Standard Modern 1334 across the street from me, I just can't wrap my head around how I'd set it up safely given all the non-flat surfaces on the head.
            Insert a bar in the bore. Insert bar in lathe. Move carriage under the head. Build a dam around the head. Cast polyurethane between the head and carriage. Remove bar. Bore to size

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by Barefoot View Post


              Well as I mentioned earlier, this isn't out of love for machine but more out of necessity. And guys, please don't give me the boot for this but it's an old but lightly used Smithy 1220XL. Yes change-overs suck, but it's all I have room for right now. Trust me, I've long since out grown this thing. That said though, with the massaging's and mods it's gotten over the last 24 years and for the work I need it to do I really can't bitch about it, other than this quill and occasionally the limited travels I'm stuck with. Let the flaming begin.
              Nope, no flaming here. Go to other sites if you're cold and want some heat. Looking at the 1220 parts book I found on the intertube (I think I found the right one) it looks like the spindle has tapered roller bearings. Forgive me, but I have to ask the obvious: are loose beariings the major cause of your wandering drill bits?

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Barefoot View Post


                I think the one in there now is actually some cast chinesium. But yeah I hear what you're saying. My concern is how the 2 milled flats next to the rack take away from the total load bearing area (see post #10). I'm losing about 1.280 in circumferential distance of bore contact. And every single photo of a quill I've come across is full radius up to the ends of the rack teeth.

                I'll have a better idea of what I need soon as I can get the bore ID mapped out.
                There has to be something flat, right? Somewhere where it mounts to the column?

                If so, a bar the exact size of the current size held between centers can line up the bore. Then with an angle plate bolted in place of the compound, you should be able to clamp to any reference surface. Even if the suface isn't square, both pieces can rotate to line it up. All that matters is that it can be held firmly.

                Have you looked into thin, castible Moglice?
                21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Barefoot View Post


                  Well as I mentioned earlier, this isn't out of love for machine but more out of necessity. And guys, please don't give me the boot for this but it's an old but lightly used Smithy 1220XL. Yes change-overs suck, but it's all I have room for right now. Trust me, I've long since out grown this thing. That said though, with the massaging's and mods it's gotten over the last 24 years and for the work I need it to do I really can't bitch about it, other than this quill and occasionally the limited travels I'm stuck with. Let the flaming begin.
                  Congratulations! That's more mill than I have! *MY* mill is a nice collection of files in the 5th drawer....
                  25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Galaxie View Post
                    A lap 2X the length of the quill sounds unwieldy even for a mini mill. Wouldn't 2X-3X the diameter be sufficient?

                    I successfully did a 2.06" bore with a lap ~1.5X the diameter, but I had to be very careful. I used a Duplex-style lap (see figure 16): http://www.modelenginenews.org/duplex/duplex_laps.html
                    Yeah, a shorter lap is do-able, but then you run a greater risk of bell-mouthing, or having some other irregularities. Maybe I'm just weird, I don't see anything strange in a lap that is 2 feet long.
                    25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by tom_d View Post

                      Nope, no flaming here. Go to other sites if you're cold and want some heat. Looking at the 1220 parts book I found on the intertube (I think I found the right one) it looks like the spindle has tapered roller bearings. Forgive me, but I have to ask the obvious: are loose beariings the major cause of your wandering drill bits?

                      Nope, not the bearings. Preload is good. With quill extended only an inch I can get a solid 5 to 6 thou of movement by pushing/pulling on it. I think the side load from the pinion while drilling puts it in a cocked position, unlike it is when edge finding, which throws my positioning out the window. And the amount it's out changes with drill sizes...bigger the bit, the higher the load, the more it drifts.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

                        Have you looked into thin, castible Moglice?

                        I've read about this stuff but I not convinced I'd get good results. Should probably look into it more.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Barefoot View Post


                          I've read about this stuff but I not convinced I'd get good results. Should probably look into it more.
                          Actually the moglice is a great suggestion from TMB. It is almost certainly the cheapest and easiest way to do the job. Using the proper release agent, you can use your existing quill to mold it. Make the quill very shiny first, and remove the rack if possible.
                          25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Barefoot View Post


                            I've read about this stuff but I not convinced I'd get good results. Should probably look into it more.
                            Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

                            Actually the moglice is a great suggestion from TMB. It is almost certainly the cheapest and easiest way to do the job. Using the proper release agent, you can use your existing quill to mold it. Make the quill very shiny first, and remove the rack if possible.
                            Here is Docsmachine's thoughts on using it for a worn tailstock bore: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ml#post3684697

                            Robin Renzetti also used it for the guide bar on his Deckel clone with excellent results. I've never tried it, but I'd like to sometime.
                            21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                            1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              This reminds me of my drill press quill restoration.
                              i ground the OD of the quill, bored and sleeved the head.
                              It was a big PIA but it worked out perfectly.
                              Is is there any way you can do that.
                              If the quill is worn the bore it's probably out of shape to.

                              JL........

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                If there is enough meat in the head casting, it could be bored and sleeved and the quill turned down just enough to clean up. Then the bother of producing the rack would be eliminated.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X