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Stuck arbor on 15 1/2 Craftsman DP

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  • #16
    Your existing one is probably salvageable. Like I said before. Generally a drill press is not a precision machine tool.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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    • #17
      Agree, so long as the efforts to remove did not bend the neck of the taper part.
      4357 2773 5647 3671 3645 0087 1276

      CNC machines only go through the motions

      "There's no pleasing these serpents"......Lewis Carroll

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      • #18
        I have a similar vintage drill press. It is part of the spindle. I took mine off and re-ground the taper as someone had bent it slightly - so that is an option... (dad has the same model too.. love this drill press as I grew up with it.)

        sam

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Bob La Londe View Post
          Your existing one is probably salvageable. Like I said before. Generally a drill press is not a precision machine tool.
          I could salvage it but not gonna. I lucked into an ebay deal that pulls my backsides out of the fire. This new precision jacobs chuck has a 1/2" straight arbor which is now going right into an R8 for the mill and the "new" spindle is coming with a nice lookjing 633 on it. And now Ive got some spare parts. it could be worse.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by skunkworks View Post
            I have a similar vintage drill press. It is part of the spindle. I took mine off and re-ground the taper as someone had bent it slightly - so that is an option... (dad has the same model too.. love this drill press as I grew up with it.)

            sam
            Hi Sam, I don't follow this, when you regrind the arbor it ain't J33 anymore and what do ye do with a non standard stump? This I ask yee.

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            • #21
              Oh and by the way, I popped the spindle pulley off like flipping hamburgers (heavy ones). Sprayed right down the spindel with PB Blaster, took two 1/4" aluminum rectangular plates that were 3 or more inches wide to distribute the weigh, put one under each side so the top of the machine head became the fulcrum and started working it around the edges like loosening a burger for the flip. Move them around the perimeter and giving the plates a sharp tug down driving the pulley up. Gave it some sharp but unpowerful prods and increased the inner Hercules just a tad and pop went the pulley. I'm just lazy enough that saving a trip to NAPA makes me really fuzzy inside.

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              • #22
                Bill, if it makes you feel better, I once tangled with same issue. Not one to quit while ahead, I escalated situation by welding a nut to the spindle so a slide hammer could be vigorously applied.

                That little DP has been tucked out of sight for close to ten years now....Plan to turn spindle down and press fit it into blank end of a 2mt socket someday.

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                • #23
                  Haha thanks for that, "detention" was always better as a group in Jr High. had to google slide hammer, a good thing to have next to your impact screw driver. I like your press fit solution - that sounds like the right fix altho it sounds like it would add unwanted length. I was thinking a dowel pin. Ultimately your decommissioning decision jibes with my approach "this would be a good time to walk away" ;-)

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Bill White View Post

                    Hi Sam, I don't follow this, when you regrind the arbor it ain't J33 anymore and what do ye do with a non standard stump? This I ask yee.
                    You can re-grind the same taper - the stub is long enough.

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                    • #25
                      Sam but wouldn't that reduce your mating surfaces inside the taper by I donno around 33%? you have to lose either length or diameter with a regrind so if using the 633 chuck with the threaded collar prob not an issue but with another chuck it seems you have to sacrifice mating surface. Yes?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Bill White View Post
                        Sam but wouldn't that reduce your mating surfaces inside the taper by I donno around 33%? you have to lose either length or diameter with a regrind so if using the 633 chuck with the threaded collar prob not an issue but with another chuck it seems you have to sacrifice mating surface. Yes?
                        Bill,
                        It depends on how much you have to grind off to get a good surface. If it's only a couple thou on the diameter, the taper will just seat a bit deeper in the chuck. Most of the time, the male taper is long enough to make this work.

                        You'd have to grind away an awful lot to reduce the contact area by 33%!
                        Last edited by Galaxie; 03-19-2021, 12:16 PM.
                        Location: Northern WI

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                        • #27
                          Yeah I was thinking "bent" and visualized a bend which was dumb by bent he meant out of concentric by a few thou. It seems like a 1:1 ratio, for every thou you're out you have to shorten by same amount. It doesn't sound like anything I want to do. When this thing comes in a few days, I'll hold a file and a stone agasint it to smooth it out and put a 633 screw on chuck on it and be done. I'll have a spare spindle assembly that i can mess around with with my grand son one fine day 10 years from now. I put the Jacobs keyless on my mill today and it is nice. I'll follow up when I get the new spindle and sort it all out

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