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Stuck arbor on 15 1/2 Craftsman DP

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  • Bill White
    replied
    Yeah I was thinking "bent" and visualized a bend which was dumb by bent he meant out of concentric by a few thou. It seems like a 1:1 ratio, for every thou you're out you have to shorten by same amount. It doesn't sound like anything I want to do. When this thing comes in a few days, I'll hold a file and a stone agasint it to smooth it out and put a 633 screw on chuck on it and be done. I'll have a spare spindle assembly that i can mess around with with my grand son one fine day 10 years from now. I put the Jacobs keyless on my mill today and it is nice. I'll follow up when I get the new spindle and sort it all out

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  • Galaxie
    replied
    Originally posted by Bill White View Post
    Sam but wouldn't that reduce your mating surfaces inside the taper by I donno around 33%? you have to lose either length or diameter with a regrind so if using the 633 chuck with the threaded collar prob not an issue but with another chuck it seems you have to sacrifice mating surface. Yes?
    Bill,
    It depends on how much you have to grind off to get a good surface. If it's only a couple thou on the diameter, the taper will just seat a bit deeper in the chuck. Most of the time, the male taper is long enough to make this work.

    You'd have to grind away an awful lot to reduce the contact area by 33%!
    Last edited by Galaxie; 03-19-2021, 12:16 PM.

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  • Bill White
    replied
    Sam but wouldn't that reduce your mating surfaces inside the taper by I donno around 33%? you have to lose either length or diameter with a regrind so if using the 633 chuck with the threaded collar prob not an issue but with another chuck it seems you have to sacrifice mating surface. Yes?

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  • skunkworks
    replied
    Originally posted by Bill White View Post

    Hi Sam, I don't follow this, when you regrind the arbor it ain't J33 anymore and what do ye do with a non standard stump? This I ask yee.
    You can re-grind the same taper - the stub is long enough.

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  • Bill White
    replied
    Haha thanks for that, "detention" was always better as a group in Jr High. had to google slide hammer, a good thing to have next to your impact screw driver. I like your press fit solution - that sounds like the right fix altho it sounds like it would add unwanted length. I was thinking a dowel pin. Ultimately your decommissioning decision jibes with my approach "this would be a good time to walk away" ;-)

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  • SVS
    replied
    Bill, if it makes you feel better, I once tangled with same issue. Not one to quit while ahead, I escalated situation by welding a nut to the spindle so a slide hammer could be vigorously applied.

    That little DP has been tucked out of sight for close to ten years now....Plan to turn spindle down and press fit it into blank end of a 2mt socket someday.

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  • Bill White
    replied
    Oh and by the way, I popped the spindle pulley off like flipping hamburgers (heavy ones). Sprayed right down the spindel with PB Blaster, took two 1/4" aluminum rectangular plates that were 3 or more inches wide to distribute the weigh, put one under each side so the top of the machine head became the fulcrum and started working it around the edges like loosening a burger for the flip. Move them around the perimeter and giving the plates a sharp tug down driving the pulley up. Gave it some sharp but unpowerful prods and increased the inner Hercules just a tad and pop went the pulley. I'm just lazy enough that saving a trip to NAPA makes me really fuzzy inside.

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  • Bill White
    replied
    Originally posted by skunkworks View Post
    I have a similar vintage drill press. It is part of the spindle. I took mine off and re-ground the taper as someone had bent it slightly - so that is an option... (dad has the same model too.. love this drill press as I grew up with it.)

    sam
    Hi Sam, I don't follow this, when you regrind the arbor it ain't J33 anymore and what do ye do with a non standard stump? This I ask yee.

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  • Bill White
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    Your existing one is probably salvageable. Like I said before. Generally a drill press is not a precision machine tool.
    I could salvage it but not gonna. I lucked into an ebay deal that pulls my backsides out of the fire. This new precision jacobs chuck has a 1/2" straight arbor which is now going right into an R8 for the mill and the "new" spindle is coming with a nice lookjing 633 on it. And now Ive got some spare parts. it could be worse.

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  • skunkworks
    replied
    I have a similar vintage drill press. It is part of the spindle. I took mine off and re-ground the taper as someone had bent it slightly - so that is an option... (dad has the same model too.. love this drill press as I grew up with it.)

    sam

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Agree, so long as the efforts to remove did not bend the neck of the taper part.

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  • Bob La Londe
    replied
    Your existing one is probably salvageable. Like I said before. Generally a drill press is not a precision machine tool.

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  • Bill White
    replied
    Ebay, Sorry I think of it as "new" but I should have said replacement assembly. Sorry just an ebay deal - there where two on the block, one rusted POS and the one I got which was almost half the price as the rusty one and looks to be NOS- It's not but it looks like it. And it has a $75 chuck attached that I can use.

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  • DR
    replied
    [QUOTE=Bill White;n1934499]

    ........ $85 for an new assembly with a new 633 attached.......................................... .................


    Where do you get that for $85? I thought Sears long ago abandoned parts for older tools.


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  • Bill White
    replied
    Originally posted by DR View Post
    Craftsman drill presses of the 1970's and earlier did not have Morse arbors, the J33 was integral to the spindle. Or, if not integral, some had the J33 stub roll pinned onto the spindle end..

    If the J33 taper has been damaged to the extent it won't hold a chuck on reliably a solution is the tap the end of the spindle. Then the chuck will have to be drilled through to use a screw to hold the chuck on. That was a common fix for damaged J33 tapers. A good many keyless chucks like Albrecht are hardened making drilling near impossible though.

    There should be fine threads on the spindle just above the J33 taper, those were used to hold chucks on even if the J33 is damaged. You can buy a chuck with a retaining collar to fit the threads. From memory that chuck would be a Jacobs 633C (around 75 bucks, I recall).

    Since a good many cheap, third world import drill presses came with Morse arbors it confuses noobs into thinking earlier American dp's are that way.
    Yeah exactly, I have a roll pin that I knocked out before taking a few whacks at it. Geez I don't know what's in there until I get it out. But $85 for an new assembly with a new 633 attached I dont feel too awful bad bc I like the idea of putting better bearings in there. Altho come to think of it there is no reason other than curiosity. The dang DP works great as is. I have a Rockwell DP and Rockwell Mill when I need to get precise. For some reason I just always use this DP - maybe cause its quieter than the Rockwell and the light in the head is great.

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