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shop remodel killed my cordless drill

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  • shop remodel killed my cordless drill

    I have been in the process of remodeling my shop to make room for my reloading bench. You know how it goes. To do one have to move 6638588873 other things to make room for the new thing. I started by building a 12x8 overhead loft above one of the roll up doors. It was just wasted space until the loft was finished last night. Now I can store Sh!tloads of my pack rat stuff that I may need 43 years from now. I have systematically positioned everything in my shop to maximize floor space and allow for my new 12 foot long reloading bench against the East wall. I have been building the new bench supports out of 3" angle with 2x2 legs and a few knee braces in the middle. Afterwards there will be a double layer of 11/8 flooring for the top with formica glued on. It should be strong enough for me to tap dance on it...... Anyway, in the process of all this moving and building and spending money at the lumber yard....I broke my Makita cordless drill. I was devistated. This thing has been my most used drill for 10+ yrs. I was running in a 5/16x2 1/2 lag bolt when the gear box in the nose cone of the drill barfed. It started to sound like an old Chrysler starter. more turn...done. Now the motor turns and the chuck has no power to it. Dammit!

    I am in the market for a new drill I guess. I am tempted to buy another makita since the last one has lasted for 10+ yrs. I am wondering about what voltage to buy. The last one was a 12V because that was the biggest then..but now there are things with 14,18,14,and 28 volts!!.. What says yous guys? Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch...what voltage...I am thinking 1/2 inch chuck this time instead of 3/8th's inch. I hear that Milwaukee has crappy batteries?


  • #2
    I buy the really cheap ones. I got an 18v cordless with clutch and two speed transmission and dc braking for $35 with two battery packs and case recently. It's great and when it wears out I just buy another. I actually have three of them, it's the batteries that croak and buying a new drill is cheaper than the batteries.

    Maybe I'll build a battlebot with the spares someday. As it is I have all three sitting around the shop with various ready-to-go bits in them.
    Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


    • #3
      We've had good luck out of the later model 3 speed dewalt's at work. We've also had the makita's but could never get the batteries to stand up to the abuse like the dewalts do. By the way Evan, I just rebuilt two battery packs for my cheapo drill out of harbor freight drill batteries. I needed 18 volt packs and I priced the nicads through several dealers and the batteries alone were goint to be around $80-$90 and I was still going to have to solder them up. There packs didn't match my drill but I just took their batteries out of the case and put them in my battery case. So far they have been holding up real well. I think they were around $12 a piece. I've had such good luck with the drill I just hated to throw it out.
      Jonathan P.


      • #4
        cordless drill

        I'm with Evan,I buy cheap ones ,and pull them to pieces for spares when the battery kicks it's last.Even Makita's batteries cost more then a new drill,so for knockabout use,why pay more then you need to?
        On the other hand,if it was for commercial use,I'd happily lay down the dough for a new Makita.
        I had a Makita 10mm corded drill at work,that was used and abused for near enough to 15 years,and last I heard it was still going strong.
        For what it's worth,I feel the packs 14.4volt and over are fairly heavy to use all day.I always have 1 battery on charge while the other is in use,so I'm never stuck waiting for a charge up.Hence the 12 volt packs do me just fine.


        • #5
          I have two Dewalt 18v drill motors. One is hammer the other is not. The non-hammer model has driven approximately 700 3" square drive deck screws and feels as strong as the hammer drill which is brand new. The battery lasts what seems a long time.

          Problems: It's heavy (but balanced) and pricey..JRouche
          My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group


          • #6
            Originally posted by JRouche
            I have two Dewalt 18v drill motors. One is hammer the other is not. The non-hammer model has driven approximately 700 3" square drive deck screws and feels as strong as the hammer drill which is brand new. The battery lasts what seems a long time.

            Problems: It's heavy (but balanced) and pricey..JRouche
            I have 2 of each,and am like evan sitting around with bits in them one always has a sleeve type screw starter with square bit.


            • #7

              Just curious...have you taken the old drill apart to make sure it isn't fixable?


              • #8
                Here is a link with Tool Repair Parts with Schematics for
                Makita Cordless Drills.If the parts aren't to expensive
                you could repair it and have a spare.


                • #9
                  My company uses cordless drills in an industrial environment driving all sorts of fasteners so we see a wide range of performance requirements. I can honestly say that Makita and DeWalt perform about the same but most of the workers prefer the 14v Dewalts due to balance and weight issues.

                  If you think a 14 is heavy, try lugging an 18 all day...


                  • #10
                    I'm still using my Craftsman 9.6 volt that I've had seemingly forever. I know the batteries are about $30 a pop but it has been a good drill and I'll keep using it until finally gives up the ghost. I use a 9.6 volt Makita at work and the only thing other than batteries is the chuck crapped out. A new chuck and we're back to work.
                    If and when I need a new drill I may get a Dewalt. I've heard some good things about them.
                    Last edited by tsmartin_98; 04-13-2006, 10:28 PM.


                    • #11
                      I haven't taken the poor little Makita apart yet. It still works and will drive screws up to #10 x 1". Anything bigger and the gearbox slips. It is a stripped drive gear I think could be a bad clutch in that it sounds the same as if you were to set the clutch to the lowest setting. Problem is that it does this when the clutch is not the "drill" setting.

                      Thanks for the tool parts link. I did look up the model number and found that the clutch and gear box are sold as one unit for $51.34. I may contemplate that at a later time. As for now I think I will replace the Makita with a little bigger machine. I use the snot outta my drill all the time...usually on a daily basis so I can justify buying a high dollar quality one. From now on I think I will drive lags with my air impact gun.

                      I am sitting on the fence between Makita, DeWalt, and Bosch. The fellow that sells Bosch speaks very highly of them and there is a decent sale price at the moment. 14V 1/2 inch drive two batteries, charger and carry case for a hundred and a half. The salesman said that the Bosch rep brought one of the Bosch "Brute" model drills to demo at a trade show. Which he did... He took a 14 Volt model and went out in the parking lot and repeatedly threw the drill up in the air as high as he could ...letting it smash on the concrete.. each time the battery would pop out.. He replaced the battery each time for 15 throws. After 15 times he commenced to drive 1 pound of 3 inch deck screws in a 4x4 post then using a paddle bit drilled 6 1.5 inch holes in the same post. The salesman was stunned. The Bosch rep asked several reps from Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, and Panasonic if he could try that with their drills....they declined. If it will handle that sort of ought to last me a while.



                      • #12
                        I love the Makita. I've owned two and they last a long time. This was the first battery powered drill which I found lasted long enough to get useful work done as a contractor.

                        I remember telling this to an elderly friend (I think he was over 80) of mine in Florida. He wouldn't have anything to do with a "battery" powered drill. In the same conversation I showed my friend how I stowed my electrical cords so that they wouldn't tangle. I made strings of half-hitches so that I could pull out as much cord as I needed and it wouldn't tangle.

                        He said, "what do you mean, tangle?" He went to his rack and grabbed a coil of 50' cord. He held onto one end and threw the cord and layed the whole thing out in a straight line. I was astounded.

                        I learned a lot from that wonderful man. I don't use half-hitchs any more. I just coil it properly.

                        I still love my Makita.


                        • #13
                          Motorcyclemac, I recently worked on a Makita that had the slider to shift from low to hi. It was doing what you describe only in both ranges.

                          Took it apart and flushed out the shifter mechanism. The slider moves a spring loaded shift arm that changes the transmission and it was packed up and would not let it go into gear.


                          • #14
                            Still waiting for the day...

                            Someday soon, some clever person is going to come up with a cordless tool series with battery packs that take normal cells. When one or two cells go bad, replace them, not the whole F$$$ing pack.

                            I've got a 14.4 volt Milwalkee that SWMBO bought me for Christmas some years ago. I've used it for drilling, driving, and even powering parts of my gear cutting machine before it got motorized. The packs come apart easily enough, but the cells are size "SC" or some such weirdness.

                            On the first battery pack death, I took it apart and checked - only a couple of cells (out of 12) were bad. The new pack is $70. Yeesh.
                            The curse of having precise measuring tools is being able to actually see how imperfect everything is.


                            • #15
                              shop remodel killed my cordless drill

                              The battery death is a major PITA. I have an 18v Skil that I got for christmas one year and love it to death. It has enough torque to break your arm or at least throw you off the ladder. When the batteries get weak and will no longer charge properly I will take one apart and see if I can buy the individual cells from an industrial battery supplier. We have one here in Tallahassee, Fl. that will make up packs of cells to replace whatever cluster of cells you bring in. I don't know the cost but I will bet it will be cheaper than a new pack. The ham radio folks that have nicad packs for their HT's can buy the nicad inserts from E. H. Yost and a host of other companies already made up to fit in the cases. I will bet that this too is possible for drill packs.

                              Jim (KB4IVH)
                              Jim (KB4IVH)

                              Only fools abuse their tools.