New e dividing head completed.

[sid pileski]

What harmonic drive did you use? If you could email me the code that would be
helpful also.
Thanks
olf20 / Bob

Send me an IM, and your email.
We can communicate best that way.

Sid

[sid pileski]

Is that a harmonic drive or a planetary gear reducer? How is the backlash ? I have seen rotary tables direct driven with a stepper motor but the backlash is often a problem, if the gear mesh is tightened to get rid of more backlash binding results and the stepper skips steps. Yours is a different approach thus the questions.

It's a planetary gear box. No perceivable play in it.
This is Hardinge, there is no back lash on the head it self. (not being uppity, but it's true)
I do know what your saying though.
I think procedurally, I would always drive in one direction and lock the spindle for the cut.
Same as I would do for a manual DH.

Sid

[Sparky_NY]

Is that a harmonic drive or a planetary gear reducer? How is the backlash ? I have seen rotary tables direct driven with a stepper motor but the backlash is often a problem, if the gear mesh is tightened to get rid of more backlash binding results and the stepper skips steps. Yours is a different approach thus the questions.

[olf20]

What harmonic drive did you use? If you could email me the code that would be
helpful also.
Thanks
olf20 / Bob

[sid pileski]

WOW that is nice! I'm not familiar with their dividing heads, but I do know that Hardinge made top-of-the-line equipment. It looks like you did a real Pro job on that one.

Yes, Hardinge does make nice equipment for sure!
I took this all apart and had it stripped. Cleaned out the old grease. Only had to drill four holes to mount the aluminum adapter section and shorten the input shaft.
Otherwise, no major mods the the body.

Sid

[eKretz]

Nice, looks very handy. I had access to a Haas HRT indexer/rotary where I last worked. I loved that thing. Used it on a bunch of stuff on the Bridgeport and even the HBM. It was a little larger but the small scale one will be handy as heck too.

[nickel-city-fab]

WOW that is nice! I'm not familiar with their dividing heads, but I do know that Hardinge made top-of-the-line equipment. It looks like you did a real Pro job on that one.

[sid pileski]

I have all of the details. What specifically would you like to know?
The only thing that I can’t really help with is the code.
I have the code, but I did not write it. If your into Arduino, than you probably could modify the code to suit your particular application. Most dividing heads are 40:1 reduction and would not need the intermediate 25:1 reduction that I used.
I have the schematic for the control box and the Amazon part numbers I used.

Sid.

[olf20]

Do you have any details on the controller, and the harmonic drive?
I'm into this Arduino stuff and have been looking to do something
similar.
Thanks for any info
olf20 / Bob

[Dan Dubeau]

Looks nice and compact Sid. Being able to swap chucks between the Hardinge is pretty handy too.

Can't wait to see the projects you make with it

[sid pileski]

You can enter degrees, divisions, jog.(jog does 1,10,100*)
forward or reverse, per button press.

Sid

[Tom S]

Very cool. How does the programming work? Do you enter in the angle or number of divisions and hit a button to advance?

[sid pileski]

In the spirit of some machining related post, I thought that I'd show a project that I've completed recently.
Last year, I did the same mod to an L-W dividing head. Unfortunately, it used an odd ball collet (can't remember what it is right now) of which I only had one 1/2".

Also, didn't like the thread on chuck.

This one is a Hardinge. It's 4:1, reduction. It uses 5C collets and has the 4* taper nose as my lathe, so it can use all my chucks.

Driving the unit is a NEMA 23 motor with a 25:1 planetary gearbox driving the 4:1 head, effectively 100:1.

So far, I have not cut any gearing, but I did put a CAM indexing plate on it an it is accurate and repeatable.
The controller is Arduino based. A member on another site did the code work for it, and advised me on components, all of which are available on Amazon.
I'd guess that I have less than $100.0 between the motor and controller hardware.