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Anyone here ever restore a Dake 501 Arbor Press?

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  • mattthemuppet
    replied
    Originally posted by hammernanvil View Post

    A job to use? It’s a 15 Ton compound press.
    By sliding the pin from the left to the right or vise
    versa, you can go from 7 Tons to 15 Tons, so it’s
    not hard to use.
    sorry, couple of months old typo

    Leave a comment:


  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Originally posted by hammernanvil View Post

    A job to use? It’s a 15 Ton compound press.
    By sliding the pin from the left to the right or vise
    versa, you can go from 7 Tons to 15 Tons, so it’s
    not hard to use.
    X2 on what Hammer said, my 25ton Dake is similar and easy to use.My Greenerd 3E with 24” Shipwheel is better suited for smaller jobs under 3 Ton, every tool has it’s place😊

    Leave a comment:


  • oxford
    replied
    Originally posted by hammernanvil View Post
    Unfortunately when you zoom in on the paint it
    doesn’t really look that good but, I completely
    stripped every bit of old paint off of it, so the crap
    you see in the paint is the casting itself.
    It’s looks good. If you get that far on a project you should have just smoothed the casting out with body filler and doesn’t take much work to get it 80-90% better.

    This is common practice on machine tool castings.

    Leave a comment:


  • hammernanvil
    replied
    Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    that's a beauty, I bet it's a job to use! I've often wished for a bit more oomf than my smaller 3 ton can give, but less than I get from my hydraulic press...
    A job to use? It’s a 15 Ton compound press.
    By sliding the pin from the left to the right or vise
    versa, you can go from 7 Tons to 15 Tons, so it’s
    not hard to use.

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthemuppet
    replied
    that's a beauty, I bet it's a joy to use! I've often wished for a bit more oomf than my smaller 3 ton can give, but less than I get from my hydraulic press...
    Last edited by mattthemuppet; 11-16-2021, 07:56 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • hammernanvil
    replied
    Unfortunately when you zoom in on the paint it
    doesn’t really look that good but, I completely
    stripped every bit of old paint off of it, so the crap
    you see in the paint is the casting itself.

    Leave a comment:


  • hammernanvil
    replied
    Thanks, and the Hand wheel and brake knob/wheel are both powder coated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Nice Job Hammervil,highlighted letters stand out looks Brand New.

    Leave a comment:


  • hammernanvil
    replied
    It’s been a while since I started this thread and
    the Press has been done for 2 or 3 months I
    guess, maybe more so I figure I ought to post
    a couple completed pics minus the name tags.
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 3 photos.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    I looks like Corp directly above Haven in pic,I was assuming Dake Corp.

    Leave a comment:


  • hammernanvil
    replied
    I noticed that yours has the abbreviation “Mich”
    Where “Michigan” is spelled out on mine.

    Leave a comment:


  • hammernanvil
    replied
    It has one number on the side but It doesn’t appear to be a serial number.
    it’s: Z12CS

    other than that just the Dake 501
    and Grand Haven Michigan.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1939222 On my Dake 6 25 ton the pin is fixed to top support no set screw but with Lead or Babbit and bottom has eccentric for adjusting if needed with set screw.The 2 tables pivot on shaft which also are Lead or Babbit filled,the filling is bonded to cast tables but rotates on thru shaft.

    Does yours have serial # , mine does not but I know it’s between 1946-1955 as it’s Dake Engine Co. Dake Corp started in 1956 to present.

    Leave a comment:


  • gambler
    replied
    I have no good advice, however, I use my 4 ton arbor press so often I can't imagine not having one.

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    All of the big Dake presses that I've seen (not many) had the lead to catch whatever was being pressed out and avoid chipping or damaging anything. It shouldn't be too hard to remove. Worst-case scenario, melt it out and collect it. Re-pour it back in when the job is done. Easiest scenario: undo and screws and lift it out.

    Leave a comment:

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