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I Need To Make A Hole Saw Arbor.....

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  • I Need To Make A Hole Saw Arbor.....

    Sounds easy, right !!! well it would be but the hole saws have a 4 start thread or 4 threads, how ever you want to look at it, quad thread etc. I don't even know what the thread is, looks like about 9/16", not sure what the pitch is either, but I don't have a way of doing it anyway. So any ideas ??

    The arbor is a bit to feeble and the saw squeals as it cuts. If it's squealing, it's vibrating and moving which is why that 1 3/4" hole saw is cutting 1.762.

    I checked my chuck with a 3/8" gage pin and the run out is .001. indicated the cutting edge of the hole saw just above the gullet and it has .003 runout. I could deal with the hole being a few thou over.

    I'd like to have an arbor with a 5/8" or 3/4" shank so I cold go direct to a collet.

    Any suggestions.

    JL...............

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Might help if you grab it in a Collet.
    Or make a driver with a single start thread and nut with a drive pin.
    Last edited by redlee; 04-23-2021, 03:59 PM.
    Beaver County Alberta Canada

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    • #3
      If its a standard hole saw, just buy one?
      Retired - Journeyman Refrigeration Pipefitter - Master Electrician - Fine Line Automation CNC 4x4 Router

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      • #4
        My hole saws all have holes in the back of them. I use those to secure the hole saw into an mt3 arbor that I use in the mill. The arbor has a 1/2 inch bored hole to accommodate end mills. I bored the threads out of the hole saw, then made a centering adapter so the hole saw would align with the arbor- then marked out through the back holes, drilled and tapped for 1/4-20. It's a bit awkward to get those bolts in, since the teeth are sharp and if the arbor is mounted you can't see the holes- but that's a small price to pay for an accurate and solid mounting of the hole saw.

        I've never heard of a 4 start thread on a hole saw. Almost all of mine are 9/16 NF, and bore out nicely to less than a 5/8 smooth hole. If I don't want, or don't have the time at the moment to bore the threads out, I just don't use the centering adapter. Two socket head bolts hold it pretty closely anyway.
        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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        • #5
          Originally posted by redlee View Post
          Might help if you grab it in a Collet.
          Or make a driver with a single start thread and nut with a drive pin.
          The shank has three flats ground on it. The dia, is .400.

          Even if I had a .400 collet I don't know how well it would hold.

          JL.................

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          • #6
            Produce a 4 start thread to fit.

            Determine the thread lead, for instance a 4 start thread at 10 Tpi lead = .1" times 4
            If using a manual lathe offset the following threads by .1" using the compound.
            If using a nc lathe offset the start Z by .1

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Bented View Post
              Produce a 4 start thread to fit.

              Determine the thread lead, for instance a 4 start thread at 10 Tpi lead = .1" times 4
              If using a manual lathe offset the following threads by .1" using the compound.
              If using a nc lathe offset the start Z by .1
              That sounds simple enough. What angle should the compound be set at ?? Can you check this type of thread with a regular thread pitch gage??

              If they are metric and I have a feeling they are then I'm SOL.

              Mine is the one on the right https://www.blairequipment.com/holcutters

              JL...........
              Last edited by JoeLee; 04-23-2021, 05:34 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
                That sounds simple enough. What angle should the compound be set at ?? Can you check this type of thread with a regular thread pitch gage??
                Set the compound to zero as close as you can, you are simply moving the Thread Start position not changing the diameter.

                A simple thread pitch gauge will give you the pitch but not the lead, do not confuse pitch and lead.
                Last edited by Bented; 04-23-2021, 06:01 PM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bented View Post

                  Set the compound to zero as close as you can, you are simply moving the Thread Start position not changing the diameter.

                  A simple thread pitch gauge will give you the pitch but not the lead, do not confuse pitch and lead.
                  Looks like it's 16 TPI with .493 - .495 dia.

                  What do I move the compound in for each thread ? I'll make a test run on a piece of alum. Never did a multi thread before.

                  JL............

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
                    The shank has three flats ground on it. The dia, is .400.

                    Even if I had a .400 collet I don't know how well it would hold.

                    JL.................
                    Make a new driver with any size shank you want with a shank the same size as the thread bore on your saws, thread it with a nut and a pin so it wont slip.
                    have you contacted Hougen ??
                    Last edited by redlee; 04-23-2021, 06:43 PM.
                    Beaver County Alberta Canada

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
                      Looks like it's 16 TPI with .493 - .495 dia.

                      What do I move the compound in for each thread ?
                      The lead, 16 TPI has a lead of 1/16 or .0625", set the thread cutting controls so that it equals 4 TPI. The helix angle will be 63-64 degrees.
                      It should appear roughly like so.

                      Last edited by Bented; 04-23-2021, 07:34 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Bented View Post

                        The lead, 16 TPI has a lead of 1/16 or .0625", set the thread cutting controls so that it equals 4 TPI. The helix angle will be 63-64 degrees.
                        It should appear roughly like so.
                        I was wondering about that. At first thought cutting 16 TPI and indexing the compound in for each thread x .100 I'm visualizing threads crossing each other due to not enough space between the 16 TPI for 4 starts. So it's the TPI divided by number of starts = 4.

                        I ran 16 TPI through Vardex TT Generator, program doesn't come up with a tool holder that I don't have and doesn't give me the option with 4 starts to select my tool holder AL075. Confusion starts !

                        I ran the program with 16 TPI 1 start and gives me a selection of tool holders to select as it normally does with my tool holder included.
                        I get helix angle 2.480 degrees, Lead .0625 which is what you mentioned. I don't get the 63-64 degrees.

                        I'll run it again with 4 starts but I'm getting stuff I've never seen in this program and I've been using it for several years.

                        JL............




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                        • #13
                          I'd just use a boring head

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                          • #14
                            Can you hold the arbor with an endmill holder. The kind that uses a set screw against the shank of the arbor. This would reduce the overhang a great deal and be quite a bit more rigid than a drill chuck or a collet.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by elf View Post
                              I'd just use a boring head
                              I had thought of doing that. Hole saw 1/16" under size and bore to finish dia. But that's a lot of extra time and those hole cutters do such a nice job and pretty fast too. I think rigidity is the big issue here.

                              JL............

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