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Help Please can anybody supply copies of THSM Jan/Feb & Mar/Apr 2012.

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  • Help Please can anybody supply copies of THSM Jan/Feb & Mar/Apr 2012.

    Help Please can anybody supply copies of THSM Magazine.......Jan/Feb & Mar/Apr 2012. the downside is I'm in New Zealand......After a divorce, there are lots of boxes not unpacked, yes I could have these....but what the Hoo.... give the dog another chocolate biscuit.
    The scary part is freight......
    Or can somebody copy paste the article on Facet Drill Sharpener by John Moran, I have some of these but how the drill depth set tool made EG measurements......
    If somebody can help, I will shout you a Heineken.....
    Regards Beagles..Dave.
    [email protected]

  • #2
    Have you seen John Moran's web site? He did email the plans etc to me for the asking once. https://www.gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.html
    25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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    • #3
      Yes Nick he has sent the plans, but no measurement for drill set tool, and I love photos, to me the photos explain most things. Regards Dave.

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      • #4
        Larry Johnson used to advertise in the HSM magazine, wanting to buy back issues. He would then sell them on eBay. You might check the magazine to see if he still advertises...

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        • #5
          Hi Dave,
          The following is the description of the depth setting tool given in the article. It would be helpful if you could point out what you find confusing in this description.

          "Another simple tool, a rod with a 0.45" deep flat bottom hole in the end, is helpful to quickly set the distance drills extend from the collet. A 2" or so length of 3/4" diameter mild steel rod is needed for this. End drill it about 0.45" deep. Use a 2 flute end mill held in the lathe tailstock to enlarge the hole to 1/2" and flatten the bottom of the hole. It is easier to face a little off the end than deepen the hole later so err toward deeper. Less drill extension provides better support but the drill must extend enough so the wheel doesn't contact the face of the chuck while grinding the secondary relief. This conflict may be minimized by care during traverse so use your judgment to reduce the extension to an amount you're comfortable with but start with 0.45" and work from there based on experience (note that collet position relative to the nut face varies a bit depending on drill size). Both the collet and the nut move back slightly during tightening but the nut moves farther. If you intend to add the optional point splitter, make a similar 1" deep hole in the other end of this tool."

          Thanks, John
          Location: Newtown, CT USA

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          • #6
            Dave, I just checked ebay for you and both issues are available, 99 cents plus postage.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by GadgetBuilder View Post
              Hi Dave,
              The following is the description of the depth setting tool given in the article. It would be helpful if you could point out what you find confusing in this description.

              "Another simple tool, a rod with a 0.45" deep flat bottom hole in the end, is helpful to quickly set the distance drills extend from the collet. A 2" or so length of 3/4" diameter mild steel rod is needed for this. End drill it about 0.45" deep. Use a 2 flute end mill held in the lathe tailstock to enlarge the hole to 1/2" and flatten the bottom of the hole. It is easier to face a little off the end than deepen the hole later so err toward deeper. Less drill extension provides better support but the drill must extend enough so the wheel doesn't contact the face of the chuck while grinding the secondary relief. This conflict may be minimized by care during traverse so use your judgment to reduce the extension to an amount you're comfortable with but start with 0.45" and work from there based on experience (note that collet position relative to the nut face varies a bit depending on drill size). Both the collet and the nut move back slightly during tightening but the nut moves farther. If you intend to add the optional point splitter, make a similar 1" deep hole in the other end of this tool."

              Thanks, John
              With that I have the plans you need. I have the Mag. But... I cant post it here. Copy chit. Unless... Just saying. JR

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by GadgetBuilder View Post
                Hi Dave,
                The following is the description of the depth setting tool given in the article. It would be helpful if you could point out what you find confusing in this description.

                "Another simple tool, a rod with a 0.45" deep flat bottom hole in the end, is helpful to quickly set the distance drills extend from the collet. A 2" or so length of 3/4" diameter mild steel rod is needed for this. End drill it about 0.45" deep. Use a 2 flute end mill held in the lathe tailstock to enlarge the hole to 1/2" and flatten the bottom of the hole. It is easier to face a little off the end than deepen the hole later so err toward deeper. Less drill extension provides better support but the drill must extend enough so the wheel doesn't contact the face of the chuck while grinding the secondary relief. This conflict may be minimized by care during traverse so use your judgment to reduce the extension to an amount you're comfortable with but start with 0.45" and work from there based on experience (note that collet position relative to the nut face varies a bit depending on drill size). Both the collet and the nut move back slightly during tightening but the nut moves farther. If you intend to add the optional point splitter, make a similar 1" deep hole in the other end of this tool."

                Thanks, John
                Thanks John, the depth part 0.45" was what I missed, so onward blindly I will follow............Regards Dave

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                • #9
                  Those issues appear to be out of stock at Village Press and I do not know if they offer reprints of articles. You could call them: 1-800-447-7367 or 231-946-3712.

                  If that fails, I do have those issues. I do not plan to sell them at this time, but if you PM me with your e-mail I could send scans of those pages.
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.

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