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Project: Building the MLA-18 Filing Machine

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  • Originally posted by ezduzit View Post

    Ugh. Do it the way they mount the motor on a contractors saw, hinged so that the weight of the motor pivoting tensions the belt. No adjustment needed. This is how I did it on my small vintage Sears table saw.
    I think I'll do it the way South Bend did on my lathe. A flat belt under tension, no adjustment needed. They didn't use the motor to provide any tension once everything was setup (horizontal drive).

    Yeah, I thought of that -- main question is how to make a hinge that would work.
    Well, or anything else that would work. I have to come up with something that bolts to the motor housing.
    So that it can be adjusted or whatever,. There is no base or anything on my motor, and no I'm not gonna use hose clamps. Can't use the end bell bolts because there isn't any flat surface there - it's all rounded.
    EDIT maybe I can use the end bell bolts with some sheet metal brackets, hrmmm.... gonna have to look at it tomorrow. No luck finding vacuum cleaner belts locally.
    Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 07-03-2021, 09:19 PM.
    25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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    • I used a plain old door hinge on that table saw.
      12" x 35" Logan 2557V lathe
      Index "Super 55" mill
      18" Vectrax vertical bandsaw
      7" x 10" Vectrax mitering bandsaw
      24" State disc sander

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      • Working on the pulley at the moment. It's very basic lathe work so I'm not going to show a lot of it. I decided to go with the flat belt style, and the supplied casting can go either way. After facing the rims and hubs it gets a 3/4" (20mm) hole thru with provision for a set screw. The kit included a Woodruff key but I've no way to actually machine for it. So instead I'll put a dimple in the input shaft for a 10-32 set screw.

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        The other side is already faced off and resting squarely in the chuck jaws. So the bore will be square to the rim. I'm not 100% sure on what the angle should be for a crowned pulley, but I think I should swing the compound around to 3 degrees on either side of center when it comes time to do that cut. Believe it or not, the raw casting centered up within .010 (!)

        All of this is done with power feeds in back gear at 100 RPM.

        I said they were good, and indeed they are.
        25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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        • Machinery's handbook says 1/8" per foot I believe. Which works out to 0.6 degrees. Which is actually what I did on a pulley today. Works, but it's a bit light. 1° or a bit more would be better.
          21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
          1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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          • Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
            Machinery's handbook says 1/8" per foot I believe. Which works out to 0.6 degrees. Which is actually what I did on a pulley today. Works, but it's a bit light. 1° or a bit more would be better.
            Thanks for the heads up! I knew they had the v-belt specs but was unsure on the crowned pulleys. Maybe I should try 1.5 degrees
            25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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            • Here's a few pics showing the setup for crowning the pulley.
              I went a bit steep on the taper angle, but I can always change that later.
              Blued it up so you can see where they meet in the middle.
              Got a huge cramp in my thumb from turning the small South Bend top slide dial.
              None of this is very precision, you can do most of it by eye.
              First pic shows the work arbor, left over from a previous project:

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              I have to get some more LH (or RH?) tools someday
              Found that one in a box of misc junk.
              Or I could just grind up some HSS to suit.

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              Once again in back gears at 85 RPM.
              I do have some nice pieces of Vasco Supreme and Rex AAA
              but I really don't feel like grinding them up yet..
              They are basically brand-new unused pieces of T-15. 3/8 x 1" x 6" long.
              (say 10mmx25mmx150mm)
              I was getting them cheap on eBay.
              I'll save them for some special occasion, like marriage.
              Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 07-04-2021, 05:28 PM.
              25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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              • I'm saving this for marriage ...

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                Bwahahahahah ... and BTW the pulley is done.
                That Vasco T-15 is wonderful for odd setups where you really have to reach out there
                Never even bothered to grind it, just clamp it in the tool holder and go
                It's still as sharp as the factory made it back in the 60's.
                Good old HSS
                25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                • you're making good progress....keep the posts/pics coming and thanks for posting the build
                  in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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                  • OK, the pulley is done. Cross-drilled it for a set screw and push rod, ground a flat on the shaft, and installed. Currently working on the table supports legs, just an angle grinder and some draw filing. Need to make a small pulley for the motor. Need to make some sort of motor mount and a way to hide the wiring. Will be changing the color -- the Glyptal red-orange is just too much for me. Found a pint can of Ford 1929 Model A Green, will use that color -- examples: https://www.google.com/search?source...iw=988&bih=560
                    Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 07-06-2021, 01:43 PM.
                    25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                    • Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
                      OK, the pulley is done. Cross-drilled it for a set screw and push rod, ground a flat on the shaft, and installed. Currently working on the table supports legs, just an angle grinder and some draw filing. Need to make a small pulley for the motor. Need to make some sort of motor mount and a way to hide the wiring. Will be changing the color -- the Glyptal red-orange is just too much for me. Found a pint can of Ford 1929 Model A Green, will use that color -- examples: https://www.google.com/search?source...iw=988&bih=560
                      Alistair would approve!
                      I cut it off twice; it's still too short
                      Oregon, USA

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                      • OK, the MLA-18 filing die machine is done.
                        Lots of pics now.
                        I finally finished the upright table supports.
                        Not as nice as I would like, but practical enough for what I have.
                        Got everything that was left "as cast" coated with either Glyptal or 1929 Ford green.
                        Got everything assembled for a few trial spins, making sure everything is as it should be.
                        First photo shows the back cover off, and the table bolted to the supports.
                        I left everything free at this time so the table moves over to the side.

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                        I had previously applied a bit of surplus gear oil to all the moving parts, rubbing it in with my fingers.
                        Especially on the shafts and bronze bearings. Better to be safe than sorry.

                        This next photo shows how I modified the rear cover. I added an oil fill hole.
                        Instruction notes say that the oil level should cover the bottom 1/4" (say 6mm) of the crank disc.
                        As another gift, this measured to be exactly 1 inch from the edge of the rear cover.
                        So I drilled and tapped for a 3/8-24 button-head cap screw, and faced the area with the boring bar.
                        I put a tiny o-ring around the screw.

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                        The rear cover is sealed with a layer of Permatex #2 (the good black stuff).
                        This next photo shows the assembly so far,
                        with the table roughly in place, and a file in the tool holder:

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                        Taken out on the porch for better light,
                        this photo shows the overall tool with the pulley:

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                        25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                        • More pics will hopefully explain the entire construction and operation:

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                          25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                          • How does the file attach?
                            12" x 35" Logan 2557V lathe
                            Index "Super 55" mill
                            18" Vectrax vertical bandsaw
                            7" x 10" Vectrax mitering bandsaw
                            24" State disc sander

                            Comment


                            • This thing is amazingly smooth, you spin it by hand and there's no sound or vibration. A sewing machine is louder!

                              I still have to do some sort of base and the motor drive setup for it. Also get a flat belt, I'll probably order one made-to-size from McMaster.
                              Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 07-10-2021, 03:59 PM.
                              25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                              • Originally posted by ezduzit View Post
                                How does the file attach?
                                In the picture below, see the cone-shaped "hat" thing under the table? That has a set screw going radially into it. 1/2 of the tool holder is milled away so it looks like a half-pipe. The hat slides over that and the tang of the file fits inside the pipe part. The set screw holds it all together... its an amazingly strong setup. The screw is bearing against the file and shoving it into the half-pipe shape on the end of the tool holder, over the full 1-inch length of the tang.

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                                Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 07-10-2021, 03:54 PM. Reason: clarity
                                25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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