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CL - "Atlas horizontal bench mill model MFC - $100 (Plainville, MA)"

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  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    Originally posted by DR View Post
    ...
    My use of the "OBO" in my ads is not a trick to create an auction, it's to indicate I'm open to negotiating and not offended by it as opposed to being hard nosed and firm in pricing. Maybe I should say "or offer".
    ...
    The "or offer" is a LOT clearer as to what you mean. The seller in the OP posted "Best offer takes it!" & that does not imply "or offer". It's also confusing because it implies that there's a time at which he will chose the best offer & when is that? I did email him about that & have had no reply.

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  • reggie_obe
    replied
    Originally posted by DR View Post

    I don't understand your reasoning. So what if the seller is trying to get the max amount via auction?. Maybe it's a widow that needs every penny? Selling is not a game that has to be played by some set of fairness rules. If you don't like the way the seller is handling his sale don't participate.

    My use of the "OBO" in my ads is not a trick to create an auction, it's to indicate I'm open to negotiating and not offended by it as opposed to being hard nosed and firm in pricing. Maybe I should say "or offer".
    Most here would agree that best off means, "I'll consider less than my advertised price." In this case, it obvious since it didn't get snapped up that the seller means:highest offer. A situation I encountered with a Delta bandsaw. Auctions are fine, I attend one or more a month.

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  • DR
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post

    Read the OP. It's been done before on Craigs. $90 isn't the correct answer to OBO. A sale disguised as an private Auction
    Buyer's premium? Much happier to pay 15% rather than the customary 18% Even better, 12% when it's a landlord's lien.
    I don't understand your reasoning. So what if the seller is trying to get the max amount via auction?. Maybe it's a widow that needs every penny? Selling is not a game that has to be played by some set of fairness rules. If you don't like the way the seller is handling his sale don't participate.

    My use of the "OBO" in my ads is not a trick to create an auction, it's to indicate I'm open to negotiating and not offended by it as opposed to being hard nosed and firm in pricing. Maybe I should say "or offer". There's a CL lister locally who has a number of items way over priced and descriptions that indicate he has no idea what he's selling. He says prices are firm, phone number required and answer the damn phone. I would like to talk with him about at least one of his items, but his obvious attitude puts me off immediately. Not my way of doing business.

    I just recently sold a machine that I had grossly under estimated the demand for. It was listed at "$200 OBO". When I checked my email there were 4 responses. Immediately I knew I under priced, but I sold to the first responder for $200. I got offers over $300 after it was gone.

    Regarding the Atlas mill in question. I had one of those years ago, don't even recall how I came to own it. Tried it a couple times and gave it to a buyer who was buying something else from me. The only thing Atlas I've liked are their old drill presses, some are re-badged as Craftsman. Once I bought a Craftsman (Atlas) 12 x 36 lathe at an estate sale for $275. It sure looked good. Got it home in my shop, after trying it I quickly realized what a piece of crap it was. I loaded it back in my truck, placed an ad on CL for $200 saying we could meet someplace. The last thing I wanted was the buyer to know where I lived after he found out those lathes are crap.

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  • Ian B
    replied
    Lots more about it here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlasmiller/index.html

    Including a pic of a complete indexing head. For its size and age - it's 1940's, 1950's, it would make a lovely addition to a modelmaker's workshop. I wish I'd had one of these when my only machine tool was a 3 1/2" Zyto lathe...

    Ian

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by mickeyf View Post
    ...........there are times when a horizontal mill is what you want.
    That is the truth for sure.

    I can picture myself doing that tube end forming tool with a small mill-drill...........not!

    But the horizontal (a Lewis) it got done with a 1/4 HP motor... dig THAT! and I only took two passes doing the cut with the 3/4" convex cutter, IIRC. I'd have to find the thread to check that.

    Maybe with one of those Rong Fu mills, RF-40? RF-45? whatever it is. My father-in law has the Enco version of that mill, and it is pretty darn capable for a round column mill. But most of them are not that heavy, and would require a lot of passes, most likely.

    Leave a comment:


  • mickeyf
    replied
    I have had one of these mills for a long time. Over the time I've had it, I've watched the eBay selling price on these things double and triple. I agree that it has limitations, and I'd love something bit larger and heavier duty, but still able to fit in my shop. Since I recently got a Mill Drill it has not has as much use, but there are times when a horizontal mill is what you want.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    Originally posted by Rich Carlstedt View Post

    Its a Atlas Indexing head. It has a MT #2 bore . You mount a change gear on the spindle on the left side. There is supposed to be a Spring Pin assembly bolted on the left side to engage the gear, but it is missing, There should also be a tail stock to go with the head . Just the head and tailstock have sold for $400 recently.
    Rich
    YouTube just recommended this video of a gear being made on an Atlas with an indexing head . I think I'm being watched 😀.

    https://youtu.be/fdSaK-6HocU?t=807

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    Having used horizontal mills for a long time, you may run up against the limitations pretty fast. That PARTICULAR mill is just not that great. There are lots of others in similar size range that have fewer limitations. It's not really "that make and model or nothing" as a choice.
    I know Doc at Docs Tools has a very nice Nichols mill, but I've never seen one that I could use. Most of them were setup without lead screws, for mass production work, and they are completely clapped out. Ditto for the Burke mills. If I wanted another project, OK maybe, but -- I don't want a project. And given the size of my typical work envelope, The Atlas is just fine. New mills are out of the question. One advantage for the Atlas mill is, I can easily get a set of SB change gears and run them on the mill. It's trivially easy to make that work.
    Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 06-06-2021, 06:43 PM.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Having used horizontal mills for a long time, you may run up against the limitations pretty fast. That PARTICULAR mill is just not that great. There are lots of others in similar size range that have fewer limitations. It's not really "that make and model or nothing" as a choice.

    The "availability of parts" is limited, even though Clausing is still around. They have basically nothing for any of the Atlas machines which are that old. If there is any zamak on it (I no longer remember), that will be the major thing driving parts need.

    Find a mill with NO zamak, and you may never need any parts at all.

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Been wanting one of those for *years* now, it's the perfect size and capabilities for my setup... anything less than a thousand if its all complete, is a great deal, these don't show up too often. Anything under $1K I'll be all over it. The alternative is to have no mill at all. Therefore if I have to get a small, used mill then I would rather it be made in USA with easy-to-find parts and repairs. It complements my SB9 perfectly.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Powell
    replied
    The Atlas mill cannot compare with what I used to have! My Pedersen PU 2 with a 50 by 12 table could literally have eaten its way through the Atlas
    . However, that said, for model making ,I( and I guess many other folk,from what I read) find it a very useful, easy to use machine. I have added simple digital readouts, changed the table drive to an electric job,added the vertical head( Just because I could not because I needed another vertical mill). and made a bed mounted vice to take larger workpieces.
    4inch cutters are the biggest it will accommodate.
    Regards David Powell.

    Leave a comment:


  • reggie_obe
    replied
    Ad was posted 3 days ago, who wouldn't snap it up if it really was $100. You could make well more than $100 parting it out.
    Beats owning a CCC machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by DR View Post

    Why is it sleazy? Do you want to pay auction fees, like a 15% buyers premium?

    I frequently list items as "$nnn OBO". Most buyers interpret that to mean it's okay to make an offer less than the listed price. Recently a prospective buyer lectured me when I sold an item for the listed price because he said he would have paid more.

    BTW: when pricing items for sale I add a little, like an $80 item would be listed for $100 OBO. Buyers always feel good about getting it for the lower price and I'm happy too.
    I list EVERYTHING as OBO. And I am NOT doing a disguised auction. I'll sell it to whoever pays the asking, or a satisfactory amount below it, without reference to other offers.

    Anyone who comes and gives me a lecture about such "tactics"may be shown the door and told the item is not for sale to them at ANY price.

    Leave a comment:


  • reggie_obe
    replied
    Originally posted by DR View Post

    Why is it sleazy? Do you want to pay auction fees, like a 15% buyers premium?

    I frequently list items as "$nnn OBO". Most buyers interpret that to mean it's okay to make an offer less than the listed price. Recently a prospective buyer lectured me when I sold an item for the listed price because he said he would have paid more.

    BTW: when pricing items for sale I add a little, like an $80 item would be listed for $100 OBO. Buyers always feel good about getting it for the lower price and I'm happy too.
    Read the OP. It's been done before on Craigs. $90 isn't the correct answer to OBO. A sale disguised as an private Auction
    Buyer's premium? Much happier to pay 15% rather than the customary 18% Even better, 12% when it's a landlord's lien.

    Leave a comment:


  • DR
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post
    Best offer on Craigslist?
    A sleazy way of running an auctions sans auction fees. I've read similar, except it was a Delta metal cutting bandsaw..
    Why is it sleazy? Do you want to pay auction fees, like a 15% buyers premium?

    I frequently list items as "$nnn OBO". Most buyers interpret that to mean it's okay to make an offer less than the listed price. Recently a prospective buyer lectured me when I sold an item for the listed price because he said he would have paid more.

    BTW: when pricing items for sale I add a little, like an $80 item would be listed for $100 OBO. Buyers always feel good about getting it for the lower price and I'm happy too.

    Leave a comment:

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