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Cutting a V-Grove Pulley

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  • #61
    Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

    Or finish the hub and then turn all the V-groove features and the bore. First option has better holding power though. Either way, there is no reason to use an expanding mandrel on this. It will only make a worse part.
    that was the problem that I had, not much holding power by gripping the hub. Had to re-true it in the 4 jaw a few times before hitting on the "part cut the Vs then go back and finish them all" approach.

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    • #62
      My method is to turn the outside to diameter. Drill for a center and then do the grooves first. This way the center helps resist side pressure while doing the grooves. Finish any features on that side on the pulley and then bore the center. Lastly, part it off and if necessary flip the pulley and face or machine any features on the other side. At least this way I feel the grooves are concentric with the bore.

      Click image for larger version

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      • #63
        Holding it in the 4 jaw chuck worked a lot better! Thank you for the advice! This one is not done yet but its made it a lot farther than the first try.
        Attached Files

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        • #64
          Mostly done with a new crank pulley to slow things down at higher rpm. I still have to figure out how to make a 4.4mm keyway cut. I am thinking a small end mill and a file to get the edges square.

          Attached Files

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          • #65
            Originally posted by donf View Post
            ...I still have to figure out how to make a 4.4mm keyway cut. I am thinking a small end mill and a file to get the edges square.
            Some jobs are best left to those who are equipped to do them.
            12" x 35" Logan 2557V lathe
            Index "Super 55" mill
            18" Vectrax vertical bandsaw
            7" x 10" Vectrax mitering bandsaw
            24" State disc sander

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            • #66
              As you have already shown thought and patience I would think the keyway would just be a little extra challenge.Go for it, as you suggested, when you get near you might be able to sharpen a piece of keystock and use that as a primitive broach to take out the last couple of thous.Regards David Powell.

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              • #67
                Originally posted by ezduzit View Post

                Some jobs are best left to those who are equipped to do them.
                Not a helpful comment.
                -js
                There are no stupid questions. But there are lots of stupid answers. This is the internet.

                Location: SF Bay Area

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by ezduzit View Post

                  Some jobs are best left to those who are equipped to do them.
                  Genius! No one else would have thought of that. I would have done that but a cnc run requires at least 15 or 20. I got 4 other orders so that group buy failed. I have been trying to buy one used but production stopped 25 years ago. The 4.4mm size broach is odd. I called around to machine shops today and no one has it. As it is the raw stock cost me about $13 per pulley purchased rough cut to size, so its just time. I got it close using two parting blades stacked together sideways and used the compound on the lathe. I got 90% there on this one but I did mess up the keyway I cut too much. Looks like I get more practice.

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by ezduzit View Post

                    Some jobs are best left to those who are equipped to do them.
                    Most of the fun of a home shop is managing to do a job that by most standards you are not equipped to do! IMHO
                    'It may not always be the best policy to do what is best technically, but those responsible for policy can never form a right judgement without knowledge of what is right technically' - 'Dutch' Kindelberger

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by donf View Post

                      Genius! No one else would have thought of that. I would have done that but a cnc run requires at least 15 or 20. I got 4 other orders so that group buy failed. I have been trying to buy one used but production stopped 25 years ago. The 4.4mm size broach is odd. I called around to machine shops today and no one has it. As it is the raw stock cost me about $13 per pulley purchased rough cut to size, so its just time. I got it close using two parting blades stacked together sideways and used the compound on the lathe. I got 90% there on this one but I did mess up the keyway I cut too much. Looks like I get more practice.
                      I've managed keyways by regrinding a boring tool so the cutting edge is vertical, then racking it through the bore. Its best ground so it cuts on the 'pull' stroke, not the 'push' stroke, you get less chatter that way. You wouldn't want to do it often, or on tough materials, but on aluminium it will be fine. 'Some jobs are best left to those who are equipped to do them' Pah!
                      'It may not always be the best policy to do what is best technically, but those responsible for policy can never form a right judgement without knowledge of what is right technically' - 'Dutch' Kindelberger

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                      • #71
                        Thank you for the feed back. I will order an old fashioned boring bar and grind a bit to make a 4.4 mm cut. I have two scrap pulleys to practice on so I can cut keyway in several spots to get the process refined. I think the third one will be a keeper.

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                        • #72
                          The third time is a very good result. I made a pulley for the alternator after the crank pulley and that came out on the first try. Thanks for all who gave advice the boring bar in the Bridgeport worked excellent for making a keyway. I have about $25 dollars in scrap in the first two tries, so not a big deal at all and learning a few more skills at the same time.

                          Click image for larger version

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