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T head engine by Brian

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    After painting and reassembling the engine, it looks lovely but it won't start. It won't start because it has lost compression at the valves.
    It started and ran fine earlier this week. The painting process didn't involve any of the things that would make the valves leak. Valve timing and ignition timing have been checked, and they are "spot on". The only difference between this engine and other engines I have built is the exceptionally long guided area of the valve stems. I have a theory that the longer contact area is creating enough friction on the valve stem to keep them from closing properly. First and easiest thing to try will be stronger valve springs. If that doesn't fix things, then my other idea can be seen at the right hand valve in the drawing. The lower portion of the guide area of the valve cages would have a clearance from the valve stem, and an inserted, concentric supplementary guide Loctited into the very bottom. This may well be the reason that Vederstein couldn't get the valves to seal on the t head engine that he built.

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  • aostling
    replied
    Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
    I will post one more video of this engine running, and then, as Bugs Bunny would have said--"That's all folks!!!" . . .
    Running, and driving a load perhaps?

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  • Willy
    replied
    What rickt said.
    The insertion tool will just consist of a 10-24 screw with a protuberance on the end of it in order to catch and drive the tang at the bottom of the insert.
    In addition to this and the STI tap the kit will also consist of a drill of the proper size to accommodate the STI tap.

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  • rickt
    replied
    The taps are special. They should be labeled "10-24 STI " for screw thread insert. I have made the inserting tool from a screw or bolt.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    "Have to"? I know of folks who say no. I have several helicoil kits of various sizes. They have a tap and an insertion tool in them, and that definitely makes it easier. I have not needed to do it without the tool.

    Others say the taps are just standard ones, but the ones I have do not seem to measure to be standard.

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Question--do you have to have a special tool to insert helicoils? I have a couple of 10-24 threaded holes in my aluminum cylinder head that are getting kinda funky. I can buy a bag of helicoils for $12, but I I buy a "helicoil kit" the price shoots up to $45

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Tundra--I currently have about 40 engines. About 1/2 are steam and about 1/2 are internal combustion.---Brian

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  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Great Job Brian,the fan looks pretty cool and the orange really makes it Pop.You mentioned you’ve been machining for 13 yrs.,how much Engines have you built?

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  • olf20
    replied
    Great engine, great job! As I have said before, I learn something new about machine
    shop work every time you build a engine. Thanks
    olf20 / Bob

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  • Ringo
    replied
    Very nice Brian

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  • chipmaker4130
    replied
    Save those farts! A methane-powered model would be a first for the forum!

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  • Cuttings
    replied
    Looks good as usual Brian. You can design and build a half dozen engine while I am still farting around with one.

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  • Toolguy
    replied
    Looks great, Brian! Just in time for Halloween, too.

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  • chipmaker4130
    replied
    Love how it all came together. I really like the color scheme too!

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    So here we have the engine dressed out in all of it's pretty colors. I had to get my good wife to take the pictures with her cell phone. Right now it is taking better pictures than my $700 digital camera. I will post one more video of this engine running, and then, as Bugs Bunny would have said--"That's all folks!!!"




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