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Moving new machine from street to garage

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  • #46
    Many suggestions ignore the 16% grade of the drive. I think putting anything other than roller pipes under the machine would be a potential for roll away and dump onto the street. At the least a come along, well anchored to something in the garage (at worst drill a 3/4" hole in the concrete pad and put an eye bolt into a threaded hold down pounded into the hole as an anchor). Then with pipes underneath use come along to drag it up in 6' pulls, anchoring it in place with rope to anchor point as come along is reset.
    Thing about pipes as rollers, if machine breaks loose some how it will run off the pipes before hitting the street. As far as using pallet jack to move it up drive, you are just adding 200# to the weight being moved and adding the risk of a runaway pallet loaded with the machine.
    Forklift will fall over on a 16% grade. Backing delivery truck up hill will put truck at 16% angle to level and lift gate will
    probably be 8-12" in the air at that 16% angle.

    If drive not paved then plywood, flake board or tempered masonite will help moving it. Two sheets would be enough. Investing in a selection of 3',4',6' lift straps will be helpful as well.
    Last edited by sch; 09-16-2021, 12:23 PM.
    Steve

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    • #47
      Originally posted by 754 View Post
      Just a question about hydraulic table , can it slip out while sliding a machine off of it.
      i mean sliding it and all of a sudden weight is all on one end when machine m might not be far enough on its bench to stay there.
      They come with a rubber mat on the top and locking wheels so they can stay in place when needed.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by sch View Post
        Many suggestions ignore the 16% grade of the drive. I think putting anything other than roller pipes under the machine would be a potential for roll away and dump onto the street. ................
        Thing about pipes as rollers, if machine breaks loose some how it will run off the pipes before hitting the street. ............................
        There is that feature, but there is also a problem related to it.

        It may not drop down far off the pipes, but it still may come to a fairly quick stop when it does come off. Depending on how top heavy it is, and how wide the base or pallet is, as well as how good the hold-downs are, that quick stop may let it topple.

        That goes double because it will be starting with a significant "list" due to the slope, which is nearly a 10 degree angle.
        2730

        Keep eye on ball.
        Hashim Khan

        Everything not impossible is compulsory

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        • #49
          Originally posted by Dave94Lightning View Post

          They come with a rubber mat on the top and locking wheels so they can stay in place when needed.
          That is not what i need i will ask another way.
          You are unloading say a 4 ft long South bend lathe, but lts say weight is evenly distibuted.
          you get 16 inches on the bench, cart is not right aganst bench, but stiil lots of weight on cart, but now only on2 wheels. Can cart start to wheelie or flip up even if wheels are locked ? That is what i ask.
          taking it off with hoist or cherry picker makes this a non issue.

          back to the slinging , over a few 2x4 or tubing and 4 people
          makes the weight hang , you can move forward in small intervals like 6 or 10 feet , then set down to rest or change orienration of those carrying. Big advantage is you set it down it cant slide or roll. Wont get it up on a stand or bench though.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by 754 View Post

            That is not what i need i will ask another way.
            You are unloading say a 4 ft long South bend lathe, but lts say weight is evenly distibuted.
            you get 16 inches on the bench, cart is not right aganst bench, but stiil lots of weight on cart, but now only on2 wheels. Can cart start to wheelie or flip up even if wheels are locked ? That is what i ask.
            taking it off with hoist or cherry picker makes this a non issue.

            back to the slinging , over a few 2x4 or tubing and 4 people
            makes the weight hang , you can move forward in small intervals like 6 or 10 feet , then set down to rest or change orienration of those carrying. Big advantage is you set it down it cant slide or roll. Wont get it up on a stand or bench though.
            I don't think you're going to tip the table when transferring a machine of this size. I used my 1,000 lb. table to transfer a 750 lb. Racine power hacksaw from my Ford Expedition to the garage for disassembly and cleaning. When I moved the table to the rear of the truck there was about a foot of space between the cargo area and the table. I slid the saw onto a piece of plywood spanning the gap. I slowly worked the saw onto the table pulling it on one side then the other a few inches at a time. With the wheels of the table locked it didn't move or tip toward the truck when the front edge of the saw started to rest on the edge of the table.

            When the saw was fully on the table I lowered the table as low as it would go and started pushing it toward the garage. The wheels are small enough that if you hit a seam in the concrete straight on they will stop immediately and the load will slide forward. I found it best to approach the seams at an angle so only 1 wheel at a time passes over it. You'll feel a bump, but it won't be sufficient to stop the table or shift the load.

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            • #51
              I'm sure you're well aware of the tipping potential. If dragging a skid up the slope is what you're going to do, then make a harness that not only pulls the skid, but pulls the machine as well. When the part of the harness pulling the skid is tight, the part of the harness pulling the machine should be taut at the same time. This way you aren't pulling the machine forward before the skid moves, but you also aren't letting the machine tilt backwards when the skid starts to move. Yes, much will depend on the skid, and how well attached the machine is. Some of the skids I've seen lately are just garbage, so as someone suggested you might have the machine set down on a couple of rails and bolt it solidly in place. Then a cable placed around the bottom of the machine will let you pull on the machine itself, with the rails staying in place underneath it. You still might want to use a 'control' cable to prevent the machine from tipping back. The skids could be 2x4s.

              One thing we don't know, and that is how anything with wheels will work on your driveway. If it's pavement there is a risk of the wheels sinking in to some extent. In addition to damaging the driveway, that will make it very difficult to pull up the slope. The smaller the wheels the worse this potential problem would be. You have the option of using an engine hoist and pulling this up the slope, but those wheels are in the small category- plus the load is very top heavy. It wouldn't take much to tip the hoist over.

              I'm going with bolt the machine to a pair of 2x4 skids and work with that. If you can push it with a vehicle (using a tire as a cushion, or something similar) then you could have it done in a short time, and safely. If you can't get enough traction to do the push, then you are back to winching in some way. My first suggestion might be the way to go- have a single pulley anchored to the floor in the shop, and with a cable around that you can use the weight of the vehicle plus its traction to help make things move.
              Last edited by darryl; 09-17-2021, 06:59 PM.
              I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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              • #52
                Originally posted by Dave94Lightning View Post
                Harbor freight hydraulic lift cart. Something like $200 and I have used it to move a bench top mill and a lathe into the garage with just my GF helping. It's indispensable from that point on I've used it 100 times over

                .
                Yes. IF you have the smooth surfaces needed to roll one of those carts around they can quickly go from simply handy to outright indispensable.

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                • #53
                  Years ago when I first moved into my house, I bolted a factory front hook off a 1971 Fargo three ton truck to the concrete floor of my shop approximately 6" from the wall and positioned so it lined up with the middle of my OH door on the opposite wall. I had a 2000 lb electric winch with considerable cable on it and a snatch block if I needed a little mechanical advantage and I made a quick attach plate to mount the winch on which would easily go over the hook and also easily go over a 2" trailer ball. I also have a decent rope that works as an extension if the winch cable is too short I used that set up numerous times to pull non running vehicles into my shop and never had a problem doing so. I also used it to pull my BP clone mill into the shop from where it was sat down on the driveway. The cost was minimal. If I didn't have an electric winch, I would have used rope blocks.

                  Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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                  • #54
                    My math calculates it as a 9.5% grade.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by swarfjunky View Post
                      My math calculates it as a 9.5% grade.
                      Not if it is 1 in 6, which 5 feet in 30 would be. It's about a 9.5 degree angle though.
                      2730

                      Keep eye on ball.
                      Hashim Khan

                      Everything not impossible is compulsory

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                      • #56
                        I have a 2500 lb HF winch, 12 V with remote. It will drag a 18 inch diameter green(heavy) pine log onto a trailer. 50 feet of cable and a rope or chain to extend the length when needed. A 3/8 inch dyneema rope was sufficient to break the cable on the 7th or 8th use, so I replaced the 5/32" cable with a 3/16" cable. The remote has enough range to use at the end of the cable. The remote uses a momentary switch so it is easy to stop pulling instantly.
                        North Central Arkansas

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                        • #57
                          Check around the neighborhood for someone with a front end loader. 500 lbs. is not that much, if you can get some help tilt it up on edge and slide a HF 4 caster dolly under it, and push it up the drive. Been some good ideas posted, and some overly complicated.

                          Jon
                          SW Mi

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

                            Not if it is 1 in 6, which 5 feet in 30 would be. It's about a 9.5 degree angle though.
                            Oops, my bad...meant to say angle.

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                            • #59
                              We drilled a 1” hole into the concrete floor as there were no studs/wall to anchor to. Inserted a piece of 1” round stock… a trailer winch worked fine…as would a chain fall /come-along, even a ratchet strap would do the job at 500lbs. YMMV…
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	HPIM3236.JPG Views:	0 Size:	740.1 KB ID:	1962270

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                              • #60
                                out of curiosity, do you have a picture of your driveway? Now that everyone and their cousins have weighed in on how to move the machine I am wondering how you finally did it... Jim

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