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Remote spin on filter for bike.

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  • Remote spin on filter for bike.

    I decided a remote spin on filter and cooler would look good on my cafe racer build, so set about machining some parts. To effect the modifications for inclusion of a remote, spin on filter and cooler, I had to modify the right side engine cover. The oil pump is located inside this cover.

    The oil galley from the pump is 10mm and is drilled at a weird angle to the cover. Halfway along it is cross drilled at a right angle, both of these holes are plugged with a blanking bung at the front of the cover. The cross drilled hole leads to the stock filter behind the cover on the side of the engine side cover. So, the pump pumps oil up the 10mm hole, does a right turn into the cross drilled hole and on to the filter, then on through the engine.

    So, in order to fit a remote, spin on filter, I had to remove the bung to the 10mm hole on the front of the cover, drill the 10mm hole out to 10.8mm and thread with a 12mm tap to a depth of 40mm. I then turned up a stainless, threaded barb to suit and the threaded section when screwed in place, covers the cross drilled hole, thus bypassing the stock filter in the side of the cover. So the pump now pumps oil up the 10mm hole in the cover, through the threaded barb and then on to a remote spin on filter, via a rubber hose. The oil enters the filter and then exits that and continues on to the cooler. From there it flows to the replacement filter cover I machined up, into the filter housing behind the cover, which is now empty, then on to the engine. Sounds complicated, but it’s not really. The spin on filter does a better job than the stock filter as the stock filter is really only a strainer.

    Mounting the side cover on the drill table was a job and a half, as the hole to the oil pump is off skew on two axis’. Once I’d drilled and tapped the 10mm hole, because of the weird angle the hole exits the cover, it’s not square to the surface, so I had to square the surface up and countersink it to accept an O ring to seal the barb using a modified router bit.
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  • #2
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ID:	1961703 To return the oil from the remote spin on to the engine it's necessary to drill the filter cover and install a barbed fitting to connect the oil filter hose to. But, that's ugly as sin, so, I machined up a new cover and pressed a barb into place. Looks a lot neater than just screwing a brass barb into the original cover.
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    Last edited by toglhot; 09-18-2021, 05:54 AM.

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    • #3
      Next came a spin on filter mount. I made this from a thick slab of ally, shaped it, mounted it in the four jour jaw and spun up a groove for the oil, then drilled holes for the inlet and outlet pipes. I also had to spin up a 22mm thread to spin the filter on to, this is a press fit in the filter housing. Once in place a stainless barb is screwed into that for the oil feed in pipe. There wasn't enough room to screw in an outlet pipe, so, I spun up an 11mm pipe and shrunk that in place next to the in feed barb. Finally I drilled and tapped two 6mm holes for mounting to the engine brackets.
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      Last edited by toglhot; 09-17-2021, 07:39 PM.

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      • #4
        I already had some ally mounts I'd machined up some time ago, but they weren't suitable, so I binned them and made a couple of new ones, the right mount dropping a further 25mm down past the original for the filter bracket mount. I decided to also mount a cooler to the engine brackets, so, bent up a bracket from 3mm ally, drilled and tapped some holes in the front of the engine mounts and mounted the cooler bracket to that. The TX650 engine is a real shaker, so I decided to mount the cooler in rubber. The holes in the cooler bracket were drilled out to a larger size for grommets, then thinned down to 1.5mm around the mounting holes for the grommets. I also had to cut down some 10mm tubes to fit between the cooler mounting wings and to mount the cooler through the grommets I spun up four positive stop nuts to prevent overtightening and tapped them 6mm. The AN fittings turned up, darned expensive at $30 a pop, so everything is fitted up now. Looks reasonable, although a bit of a jumble of black oil hoses. Damn big job this one.
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        • #5
          Some of the bits, cooler bracket and positive stop nuts not pictured.
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          • #6
            While I had the side cover off, I removed the kickstart pinion and associated gears and springs, turned up a couple of bungs and bolted them in place. No leaks possible here: As well as the kickstart spindle seal, there are another two O rings, one on the back, another on the front.
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