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Lathe stand.

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  • Lathe stand.

    I bought this lathe around 10years ago and built a stand for it. The stand has a built in bed levelling system, accurate to 0.02mm and a built in coolant system.

    The stand is in two parts: Top part is an H shaped angle iron platform for the lathe and the lower section has a small shelf under the swarf tray, a metrology drawer below that and two shelves below that, behind swing out out doors for accessories and small stock.

    the Lathe platform has a fine thread bolt welded underneath in each corner, these locate into holes drilled into a flat plate welded to the top of the lower section. Each corner can be lifted or lowered by turning the nut on the four bolts and then locked off by pinching up the lower nut. Takes about 5-10minutes to level and is accurate to within 0.02mm over the length of the bed.

    The coolant pump is bolted to the back wall inside the cupboard section. It is a 12 volt centrifugal pump, fed by coolant from a 10 litre plastic jerry can. It pumps coolant up to a 25mm tube under the swarf tray and back into the coolant tank. There is a tap and two take offs in the line leading to the 25mm tube, these feed two flexible nozzles, one mounted to the splash guard, the other mounted on the cross slide. The swarf tray has two drains at the rear which funnel coolant into the 25mm tube under the tray.

    It's a sealed, looping system, so no smell and coolant has only been changed three times in the 10years it has been in use.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by toglhot; 09-17-2021, 10:24 PM.

  • #2
    The coolant system.
    Attached Files


    • #3
      A little while back the switchgear fell apart. I rang around trying to find an electrician who knew how to rewire a lathe, not a one. So, armed with a multimeter I identified run and start coil windings, figured out which wire to switch for reverse and forward and set to work drawing up a schematic.

      I bought a new push on, push off switch and a simple three position toggle for forward and reverse. Made up a new ally fascia plate for them, fabbed a mount for the two capacitors, the box of which also fell apart, and put it all together over two days. Works well now, although, I might install a momentary on switch for threading operations.
      Attached Files


      • #4
        The lathe being on the separate leveling bed is a lovely idea. It sure makes it super easy to level or true the bed so it's flat to that sort of degree. Pretty much "Dial-A-Level" that easily adjusts out any twist due to the lower base pressed against the floor slab.

        I did something similar with my own base. The lathe is sitting on leveling nuts on studs cast into the concrete filled upper construction blocks. So same idea for tweaking the leveling idea without the need for shims. I had it a bit harder though since my studs were simply 1/2" diameter coarse all thread "Redi-Rod" bent into L's to allow casting into the concrete block base pedestals that I used.
        Chilliwack BC, Canada


        • #5
          With very fine threads, when you adjust, , moving the spanner an inch or two results in about 0.02mm movement. An even finer thread would have been better.