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Need to remove 5MT arbor from Jacobs 20N SuperChuck

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  • #31
    I found a bit of time yesterday afternoon to get back at removing the 5MT arbor from the drill chuck. I decided that if I was going to apply heat, that it would likely affect the lube in the chuck so I might as well dismantle the chuck first so that I could apply the heat directly to the chuck body outside of the taper in the body. First I drilled the hole in the chuck body a bit larger and 1/4 in deep into the arbor. I put on my hearing protection, placed some leather shot bags at the base of the press and then put the arbor/chuck body back into the press, applied a "modest" amount of force and began to heat the body of the chuck. Took a couple of minutes for the bang to occur. There is a band of galling, about 1/8 inch wide on both the arbor and the chuck body. I think I'll go into the chuck body with a tiny grinding stone to relieve the surface of the chuck taper at the galling band and then use a red Loctite when I press the new 4MT arbor into the chuck body.

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    Metro Detroit

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    • #32
      very cool, glad it worked out well!

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      • #33
        Glad you succeeded and didn't resort to some caveman technique that would have destroyed a MT5 arbor.

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        • #34
          Well done! I can't believe somebody spun that. Must not have been seat well.
          21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
          1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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          • #35
            Ditto! "Another one bites the dust!"



            Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
            very cool, glad it worked out well!
            Paul A.
            SE Texas

            And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
            You will find that it has discrete steps.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by aribert View Post
              ...and then use a red Loctite when I press the new 4MT arbor into the chuck body.
              Don't use anything in the socket. The taper is strong enough that is isn't needed. Anyway, all the Loctite will do is add to your runout.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by aribert View Post
                I bought a Jacobs 20N (3/8 to 1 inch capacity, a substantial drill chuck) SuperChuck at auction a while back. The chuck came with a 5MT arbor.
                Its a big azzed arbbor. Take a chisle to the mating point while holing the now dead arbor in a big vice. Take a nice 2lbs hammer and steel chisle to go to work lightly one the mating point of the arbor and chuck. Tap, tap tap. Yeah, do it for five minutes. She will pop off.

                Time and pacientes..

                See, you can brut force something into fix or fail. Itsbetter to start with tap, tap, tp .. Just try it. Flat chisle, tap tap tap lightly arond the joint. Dont mar the holder. Jus

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                • #38
                  Umm the OP got it separated a few days ago----
                  'It may not always be the best policy to do what is best technically, but those responsible for policy can never form a right judgement without knowledge of what is right technically' - 'Dutch' Kindelberger

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Richard P Wilson View Post
                    Umm the OP got it separated a few days ago----
                    Good Job Richard, you did well. JR

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                    • #40
                      No loctite, you dont need it. Heat the chuck up in an oven and drop it on the arbor and give the arbor a whack with a dead blow. Once it cools its not going to come off. Some people say put the arbor in the freezer but you can get condensation on the arbor before assembling which could potentially cause rust in the taper.

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