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Some work on a TX650.

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  • #76
    Originally posted by JRouche View Post

    Very nice. I dont like lean on a new engine. You know that,

    I like that build. JR
    I think the build is outstanding! My Opin JR

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    • #77
      Originally posted by JRouche View Post

      I think the build is outstanding! My Opin JR
      +1!
      Sole proprietor of Acme Buggy Whips Ltd.
      Specialty products for beating dead horses.

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      • #78
        I did away with the tacho and voltmeter up top, simplified it by just mounting the speedo on the top tree, I'll put some idiot lights in the headlight bucket.. The voltmeter is now below the right hand side panel. I'll either connect it to the battery via a toggle switch or connect it to the brake light wiring.




        I designed and taped up a couple of harnesses a while back, decided to go with two: One for ignition, plus the neutral cable, the other for lighting. A much simplified system for fault finding. Four wires in one, six in the other, although I think I'll delete the neutral cable, don't see any need for that or the tacho. It still needs a little tidying up, a bit raggedy at the moment.




        Scraping the barrel for fabrication and machining work now, only have to finish off the wiring and fit brake lines, chain and sprockets and mufflers, nearing the end, what'll I do when I finish. This build has been very enjoyable, learnt lots of new cuss words.
        Attached Files

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        • #79
          Originally posted by toglhot View Post
          This build has been very enjoyable, learnt lots of new cuss words.
          I find it quite helpful to learn the proper curse words of the country of origin of the item I am working on. It seems to make the job go more smoothly!😊
          Sole proprietor of Acme Buggy Whips Ltd.
          Specialty products for beating dead horses.

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          • #80
            I like the single speedo look. I did similar on my RD but went with a tach/speedo combo.

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            • #81
              Originally posted by Beazld View Post

              I find it quite helpful to learn the proper curse words of the country of origin of the item I am working on. It seems to make the job go more smoothly!😊
              Think of swearing as a lubricant.

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              • #82
                Nobody does anything properly these days. I bought some VMs a month or so ago and found the cable ends that sit in the adjusters on top of the carbs are a very sloppy fit inside the brass adjusters, so today I pulled them out and took some measurements. The hole in the brass adjuster where the cable end sits is 7mm, whereas the cable end is only 6mm doesn't sound like much but that 1mm allows the cable end to flop around inside the adjuster. I spun up a couple of brass sleeves that were 6mm inside and 7.05 on the outside then pressed the sleeves into the adjusters, I couldn't risk making the fit any tighter as the walls of the sleeve were only .5mm thick. All worked out well, now the cables are a good fit, as they should have been from the shop. Why doesn't anybody supply good fitting accessories anymore?

                Whilst I was at it I made a Spanner to fit the carb caps so I could tighten them reasonably tight. The spanner is aluminium so as not to scratch the polished caps too much. Previously, when I made the throttle cable, I made the inner cable a bit too long , so the adjuster in the throttle was at the end of it's adjustment, that also had to be fixed by removing the nipple, cutting 8mm off the cable and refitting the nipple.

                After putting everything back together I started the bike and synced the carbs at idle, then increased the revs to around 3k and synced again, all good, or so I thought. Then I found as the revs rise upwards of 4-5k the left inlet tract on the left pot loses vacuum putting the carbs out of sync at higher revs. So, I synced the carbs at 4-5k revs then took it back to 3k revs and damn it, the sync is out again. Sync at idle remained constant and even More mucking about to find the problem.
                Attached Files

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                • #83
                  Brilliant!
                  Sole proprietor of Acme Buggy Whips Ltd.
                  Specialty products for beating dead horses.

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    I read though this thread for the first time today. When I saw the first picture, I thought it was a Triumph but the model number sounded wrong. I quickly realized it was the Yamaha that I rode in the early 1970s. For a while I rode the 650 and my wife had the '74 XS500. Normally I rode British bikes, just because I liked them.

                    This is some wonderful work toglhot. I wish that I could do work that is half as inspired.

                    Thanks for sharing.

                    Dan
                    At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

                    Location: SF East Bay.

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                    • #85
                      Ham fisted.
                      I broke the brass adjuster on the left hand VM, so had to make a new one. Instead of a hex head I knurled the head so I don't have to mess around with an 8mm spanner when adjusting. As you can see, the thread isn't much chop, the only M6 x .75 die I had was a non split die and carbon steel so the thread is a little undersize and a bit ragged. I've ordered a HSS die, so as soon as that turns up I'll make another, plus one for the right hand carb. Might make them from stainless though, stainless is bit hardier than brass. So much for the brass sleeves I made.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #86
                        I have chronic RA so the clutch lever on the bike is too heavy to use comfortably, so I put the law of the lever to work.
                        The clutch lever's distance from pivot point to nipple centre is 30mm, whereas the clutch actuator lever's distance from screw, or pivot point, to nipple centre is 35mm, so the law of the lever is already at work, but not enough for me.

                        I had an old clutch actuator lever that came in a box of parts with the bike. I removed the original lever, cleaned up the damaged screw and turned down the head of the screw to 13mm.

                        After fashioning a rough lever I attached it to the screw, turned up a dust cover and welded everything together. As I wanted better leverage I drilled the pivot point for the nipple holder 10mm further out from the screw, 45mm.
                        Attached everything and pulled the lever, much, much better. The actuator lever, due to the increased distance between screw and nipple holder pivot actually moves the pushrod less than the original, but still separates the plates enough for the clutch to do it's job.
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by toglhot; 02-20-2022, 04:58 PM.

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                        • #87
                          The coil on the TX went kaput, so I sent off for another CB 750 coil. It arrived yesterday so I went to install it only to find it didn't fit' the bracket I made a while back, the mounting holes on the new coil are 10mm closer together. Not much choice so I made another mounting bracket. Being as it's under the tank I anodised it instead of polishing it as I'd done with the original. Prior to anodising I rotary sanded it, then hit it with a scotchbrite wheel, then dumped it in the anodising bath. Unfortunately, anodising tends to greatly amplify any imperfections in the finish, whilst it looked great before anodising it came out showing the sanding scratches. Acceptable and not seen under the tank, but I wasn't happy with the finish, so rather than do it all again, I put it in the blasting cabinet and gave it a light blasting with glass beads. What a great finish this gave, still anodised so it won't oxidise, but boy, what a great finish. I still have to route the cables and harness neatly, that's why it looks a little untidy. I might also do the same with the top engine mounts.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #88
                            I sent off for a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and some hoses, they arrived today and I was pleasantly surprised. The slave cylinder mounts where the original cable was and pulls on the lever attached to the course thread screw. It was cheap and is pretty darn good quality, just not sure it will work that well as the bore is only around 12_14mm. Tomorrows job.

                            Some hydraulic hoses also arrived, these were advertised as 'braided' but certainly there is no external braiding. They are quite small in diameter and appear to be made of some sort of plastic with braiding of some sort under the clearish outer surface. The smaller of the two came with three banjos: straight, 28 degrees and 90 degrees. Again, they appear to be quite good quality.

                            The slave cylinder and hoses were only bought to play with, but if everything works ok, I may look at the hoses for brake lines. I'll be on the lathe again shortly to make a slave cylinder that pushes on the clutch actuating rod, not a fan of the course threaded screw actuator.
                            Attached Files

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                            • #89
                              Originally posted by toglhot View Post
                              The slave cylinder and hoses were only bought to play with, but if everything works ok, I may look at the hoses for brake lines. I'll be on the lathe again shortly to make a slave cylinder that pushes on the clutch actuating rod, not a fan of the course threaded screw actuator.
                              The plastic covers on the braided lines is pretty common. It looks like the setup in the pictures is basically a “hydraulic cable” and still uses the original clutch actuator? I think you last sentence made it seem like you are going to make a direct push cylinder for the clutch?

                              There was a few different guys that made some up like that for the Kawi triples that I remember. Mostly it was for using aftermarket upgraded clutch springs and lever pull became hard.

                              I went with braided lines on my rd350 due to a different master cylinder and going with a dual disc conversion. I used separate lines and fittings like you have pictures above as it was way easier to get line lengths and fitting clocking correct over getting custom lines made up. I’ll post up some pics of what I did.

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                              • #90
                                Pics

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