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  • #16
    Originally posted by Toolguy View Post
    I would make the aluminum hex with a hole to fit the part OD and split in it like you said above. Make a flat bottom or ledge in the hole to set a consistent height. Put a pinch bolt across the split to clamp the part so it can't move in the jig until you're done. Make sure the bolt doesn't protrude above the surface of the hex.

    Put the hex in the vise and clamp on 2 of the flat sides. Mill in X axis parallel to the fixed jaw. The hex on alum. OD indexes the part. Turn the hex with part 1/6 turn, mill in X again. Turn and mill until all sides are done. Loosen bolt, trade parts, repeat. No need to move Y or Z axis, just mill a straight line 6 times.

    This will be fast to change and index parts, and very low chance to mess one up.
    Honestly, this is probably the easiest way to do it. The time it takes to make the jig will be worth it.


    • #17
      I'm leaning towards making a plug that you screw the cap onto. The plug mounts on the rotary table, and has a shoulder that the cap tightens up to. The milling would be done in the direction that tends to tighten the cap. When six facets are milled, remove the part (which will by now be fairly tight) with a suitable wrench. The problem then becomes how to hold the plug jig to the rotary table. But this is something you only need do once.

      You may have to mount the rotary table vertically- this would allow you to use a fly cutter to make the facets, and gives you the right direction for the cutting to keep the cap from unscrewing. Using a regular endmill would be slower, and if you mounted the RT horizontally it would tend to unscrew the cap as you machine on it. A left hand endmill and reverse rotation would make it work though.
      Last edited by darryl; 10-06-2021, 10:03 PM.
      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


      • #18
        A split ring holding the part in pocketed soft jaws works well.