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Best all around shop paint?

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  • #16
    My best recommendation would be epoxy primer and single stage acrylic or urethane enamel.
    I use BASF Diamont EP569 primer and usually Limco Supreme Plus 2K. I've also used PPG Essential urethane which is a bit more pricey and there is an activator and hardener for it.

    But I'm a body and fender guy and when I restore stuff I used good paint products.

    JL...............

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    • #17
      Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
      My best recommendation would be epoxy primer and single stage acrylic or urethane enamel.
      I use BASF Diamont EP569 primer and usually Limco Supreme Plus 2K. I've also used PPG Essential urethane which is a bit more pricey and there is an activator and hardener for it.

      But I'm a body and fender guy and when I restore stuff I used good paint products.

      JL...............
      Your tool restorations certainly show it too, you do nice work.

      Lots of good info in this thread, thank you everyone. I hope to up my painting/finishing game in the future. Too cold right now to paint anything, but I'll have a few projects to drag outside come spring time.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Dan Dubeau View Post

        Your tool restorations certainly show it too, you do nice work.

        Lots of good info in this thread, thank you everyone. I hope to up my painting/finishing game in the future. Too cold right now to paint anything, but I'll have a few projects to drag outside come spring time.
        Thank you......... I do almost all of my painting out side but just have to wait for that perfect day which we don't have many of. Early spring before things start to pollinate is usually best, sometime even late fall. but this year was the worst. Too much rain and that brought on too many insects. So I had to use a friends shop for the big stuff this past fall.

        JL...............

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        • #19
          OKay Being the SAFETY Nut here. I'll take all the flaming you want to toss at me, but someone needs to say something.. If you use any of the two part paints be sure to use breathing protection as many if not all of these have isocyanide products in them and this stuff is BAD S**T. I know of 2 pro painters that have died early in life 51yrs & 56yrs old from exposure of this and all the solvents over the years of doing professional painting. Don't be the tuff guy and wear a proper filter mask or breathing air supply system.

          OKay I'm done.

          TX
          Mr fixit for the family
          Chris

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          • #20
            Haze Grey and Under way.

            Usually starts with a needle gun to remove the old then some nice Red lead primer. Then the grey coat Thats all I know. JR

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            • #21
              Originally posted by JRouche View Post
              Haze Grey and Under way.

              Usually starts with a needle gun to remove the old then some nice Red lead primer. Then the grey coat Thats all I know. JR
              Weher do you find "Red Lead" primer today ???

              The last I remember it was phased out in the early 80's.

              This was considered red lead primer here.............. DuPont 80's

              This stuff was replaced with I believe 70's ?? Had a grey can. The stuff basically sucked compared to the red oxide. The lead free version didn't adhere as well to steel, didn't dry as fast and sanding was a PIA as it powered so finely that it would pack the sand paper. Neither would adhere well to galvanized or aluminum very well. The new epoxy primers are far superior.

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              JL...............

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