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Hydraulic powerpack wiring sanity check

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  • Hydraulic powerpack wiring sanity check

    I'm converting an old tandem trailer I have to one with a self loading hoist arrangement. Hoist will have two slewing cylinders and a 12vdc hydraulic power pack. Truck has a 950 cca battery and a 85amp alternator. So the plan is, connect up two runs of #2 copper battery lead , positive to the positive battery post, negative to the starter ground stud. From the positive post to a 200amp circuit breaker, then run both down the frame to the bumper and terminate into a forklift quick connector. Matching connector on the trailer and off to the power pack.

    Max current draw will be 45 seconds @ 160amps, with most loads being far less.

    Any problems?
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  • #2
    We had a similar wiring setup on a F-250 at work. We used welding cable, and welder plugs. It powered a 6000lb winch on a trailer for moving garbage containers. If I was you, I'd consider adding a master switch for the circuit. Cole-Hersee has a battery switch that's close to bulletproof. Also, we used "Klixon" brand breakers. I don't recall using any over 125 amps, so can't say if they have any at 200 amps.
    I cut it off twice; it's still too short
    Oregon, USA

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    • #3
      As mentioned earlier, a battery disconnect switch on the positive line near the battery would be a good idea. Leave it turned off when trailer is not in use. Curious why you are connecting the negative to the starter ground stud and not the battery. It will work as you have planned, but it adds the engine to chassis ground cable into the circuit which is one more connection and therefore an additional potential failure point in the future.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Tim Clarke View Post
        We had a similar wiring setup on a F-250 at work. We used welding cable, and welder plugs. It powered a 6000lb winch on a trailer for moving garbage containers. If I was you, I'd consider adding a master switch for the circuit. Cole-Hersee has a battery switch that's close to bulletproof. Also, we used "Klixon" brand breakers. I don't recall using any over 125 amps, so can't say if they have any at 200 amps.
        Klixon was the brand I was looking at, they seem to offer 100,150,200 and 350 sizes most commonly. I figured the 350 would be way overkill, good point about adding a disconnect, it's on the list, thanks!
        I just need one more tool,just one!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by tom_d View Post
          As mentioned earlier, a battery disconnect switch on the positive line near the battery would be a good idea. Leave it turned off when trailer is not in use. Curious why you are connecting the negative to the starter ground stud and not the battery. It will work as you have planned, but it adds the engine to chassis ground cable into the circuit which is one more connection and therefore an additional potential failure point in the future.
          That's one of the reasons I posted this. Doing my own research it seems there are two camps, one says battery direct, the other says chasis ground. The latter claims there is less chance of nuking a battery in a high discharge situation( I don't see ever winding it up that tight) and like you, the other camp says it's just one more connection thrown in for fun.
          I just need one more tool,just one!

          Comment


          • #6
            I would look at putting a battery on the trailer, it might be cheaper than the cables and connectors. You could then run a smaller gauge wire from the truck to charge the battery.

            Jerry

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            • #7
              Originally posted by wierdscience View Post

              That's one of the reasons I posted this. Doing my own research it seems there are two camps, one says battery direct, the other says chasis ground. The latter claims there is less chance of nuking a battery in a high discharge situation( I don't see ever winding it up that tight) and like you, the other camp says it's just one more connection thrown in for fun.
              In my book avoiding damage to the battery from a high discharge situation is commonly referred to as fuse protection. If the fuse is sized right, and located near the battery, your battery should be fine. Problem I have with relying on the engine to chassis ground is that it might not be up to the task. Also, as you say, it's just one more connection. One more possible high resistance to diagnose should there be a problem. I'm from the school of Keep It Simple.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jerrythepilot View Post
                I would look at putting a battery on the trailer, it might be cheaper than the cables and connectors. You could then run a smaller gauge wire from the truck to charge the battery.

                Jerry
                +1!

                Much easier, and safer too.

                And much cheaper.
                Last edited by Mike Burch; 11-11-2021, 11:23 PM.

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                • #9
                  I came up with a much simpler answer for my needs.
                  I use a heavy landscaper style open trailer to carry my model steam engines, the heaviest of which weighs about 600 lbs and I simply need to haul them up the ramp
                  . I fitted a 600 lb pull winch in the front of the bed, initially I powered it with long cables from the tow vehicle's battery ,however for the last 4 years I have powered it with one of the small hand held vehicle starting units.
                  I simply clip one wire to one terminal on the winch and hold the other to the other terminal as needed.
                  A full charge of the unit will load 3 models and provide enough power to run steam raising fans for the 3 if needed
                  . Perhaps one of the units intended for large trucks would work for you.
                  Obviously you could add switchgear if required,
                  Might be worth a thought. Regards David Powell.

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                  • #10
                    Well after pricing the cable and connectors today I'm gonna go a different route. Power pack is going under the hood! There is a nice sized empty spot between the washer bottle and passenger headlight, plenty of room there. This greatly shortens the cable runs, the power pack has a wireless remote, so control wiring isn't even an issue.

                    So #2 welding lead is $6.90-8.00/ft a the moment, but 2-wire 3/8" hydraulic hose is $1.29/ft, a couple pair quick couplers with caps $35. I figure this will be a better solution anyway, given that the power pack will stay with the truck, which gives me the option of powering something else other than just the trailer.
                    I just need one more tool,just one!

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                    • #11
                      Mounting the hydraulic power pack on the truck limits you to using the trailer only with that vehicle.
                      Location: The Black Forest in Germany

                      How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Black Forest View Post
                        Mounting the hydraulic power pack on the truck limits you to using the trailer only with that vehicle.
                        He can make it removable.
                        Helder Ferreira
                        Setubal, Portugal

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Black Forest View Post
                          Mounting the hydraulic power pack on the truck limits you to using the trailer only with that vehicle.
                          Keeps people from borrowing that trailer too
                          I just need one more tool,just one!

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