Anyone put in a Honeywell wifi thermostat? I have a simple question.....

[J Tiers]

Honeywell sells it, they did not make it, it is an "affiliate product" it turns out. So the programmer may be the kid down the block (literally, as they are based here where the house is in Twin Cities.).

Thermostat is working fine. I pulled 4 conductor in place of the 2 conductor (yes, R and "W") and heat is on.

There is, I think, a decent chance that the reconnect issue is a non-issue, that the thing actually works "right". Also possible that it works just as the guy said, due to limited backup time due to no battery, just maybe a small super-capacitor (they are cheap, they are even in give-away crank flashlights).

Anyhow, the thing does not stop acting like a thermostat after power returns, so the lack of communication, if true, is no worse than it was before installation (old mercury Honeywell round unit). At least the lack of comm tells something, and we can ask the neighbor to look and see if the wires are down.

Thanks for the information.

[wmgeorge]

My boiler cycles on and off continuously during the really cold weather. The high limit is set to I think 180 deg. My old boiler never did that and I believe that the reason was that the old boiler had a large heat exchange which held heat longer than these newer boilers which have very small heat exchangers. It's like an on demand hot water heater. I don't see where the efficiency is when a boiler cycles continuously like that. Not to mention the wear and tear on all the components.

JL.............

It will never hit the high limit unless the Operating water temp controller is not set right or is bad. Call for heat, the pump motor may come on and then the water temperature stat adjusts the water temperature cycling the burner at whatever its set at. Some have an outside temperature reset that that shifts the water temperature higher as it gets colder outside and vis versa. Every setup might vary as the brand and who set up the boiler. Some use zone valves to control the room temperature, when it calls for heat in that zone, the pump starts and water temperature is as above. Many varied ways to control, your results may be different. Your thermostat may need the anticipator adjusted in this case.

[J Tiers]

BTW, it's a "boiler", but this is a hot water system, not steam.... So no boiler temp maintenance.

[wmgeorge]

Jerry here I thought you lived in Missouri all this time but you're a Minnesota person? I was answering JoeLee above.

[J Tiers]

I'm FROM Minnesota originally, and I inherited a house here. That's the house in question. I actually live in MO now.

Got a good old hot water system in MO also.... the best heat ever.

[OaklandGB]

Well, it would cost you the price of the thermostat you have, but you could install it, program it, then shut the main breaker off to see what happens. It would be better to know for sure while you're there than to perhaps lose your pipes to freezing while you're away. It would also tell you what the "default" programming is after you switched the power back on. Maybe that is something you could live with in a power failure situation.

[J Tiers]

I already know that it will remember the program. That's not even a question.

It's the dumb part according to the customer service parrot, that it will retry for connection for an hour and then never try again until reset. I'm not leaving it off for a couple days to find out. Personally, I think he was FOS.

It's better than the old one, since it will tell me of a problem, by (maybe) not connecting. If I can ping the router, but not the t-stat, likely power was out, or t-stat failed.

No need to hit the main, seems like the furnace power would work as well. Already did that to see.

And, the old t-stat will work as backup............. so all that is needed is to know power is out. I can ask a neighbor about that, and to check wires,