Got a few long waiting items off The List today.

[BCRider]

Dan, I wandered across a lot of YT looking for indicator holders to use too. I really liked the aluminum ones which were cut to fit the gauges but I didn't like that they were pretty well fixed for doing axial or face readings with separate holders or with one holder and two dial gauges. Plus I wanted to be able to use some other options like holding onto a DTI and my back stemmed Starett with accessory teeter totter. So I designed and made my own a while back. Some pictures below.

If you like this as a pretty easy to make idea I have a drawing I can send you if you PM me your email address. Same offer to anyone else.

In the end I used the fairly simple to make yet very flexible to use "Not So Quick Change Dial Indicator Holder" idea as my inspiration..... Plus I had a piece of 3/4 square aluminium in the bits and pieces rack....

It uses a coved wedge cotter instead of slits and pinch screws. I find that's a tidier option that uses up less space than a slit and pinch screw. It also is more predictable in the way it locks items in place than relying on how springy the base metal might or might not be depending on where and how long a slit happens to be.

Notice though that both the Starett and DTI have their faced looking at my belly button. That's why I like the new big face .030 travel Mitutoyo one that started this thread. I can look down on it comfortably while I adjust the four jaw for an internal setup.



Truing a face



Checking runout



Internal runout



And finally holding one of my DTI's... which is a lot less assembly required than the Starett.
But I still need to bend down to see it clearly if I don't put the needle at 6 o'clock......

[Dan Dubeau]

Nice job, I really like the proportions and aesthetics of that speed wrench. The indicator arm is neat too, I've wanted one of those for a while, but not enough to ebay one, and I haven't run across one in my travels. Perhaps I'll get lucky one day.

[BCRider]

A picture and since there seems to be some interest an approximate sketch of the sizes I used. The bigger sizes are the original 3/16 key size. The smaller dimensions are for the new 4mm version. As you can see it's all quite approximate and just do it by eye to avoid anything clumsy looking.

I also included in the sketch the two versions of the flutes I did. I'd have knurled this smaller second one but I could NOT get the one wheel to make a single impression. Kept getting double lines in the one direction. Finally broke down and did the flutes.

Center drilling the end of the stock and using the live center to allow turning the whole thing other than finishing the ends is a handy option. Plus it's easy then to drill down the length of the fluted/knurled bit with a set screw clearance hole and then the last bit with the tap drill and thread for the set screw to secure the cross bar.

[Tundra Twin Track]

I pressed them in. Drilled a hole which was about 10 to 12 thou smaller than the max size across the edges then about a 1/4 inch of a slightly bigger size to match the max size for a starting guide. Then it took a few good bumps with the big machinist's hammer to set the hex about a 1/2 or 5/8 inch into the pressure fit. It ain't goin' noplace. Oh, and a slight taper on the end being driven so it spreads the metal instead of cutting it as it's hammered into place.

Can you show a pic of the spindle with the 6 flutes,not visualizing it.

[jwmelvin]

I pressed them in.

Thanks. I really like those and will have to make a few. My collection of tool holders use a variety of screw sizes.

[BCRider]

For the speed keys, do you press the hex in? Any adhesive?

I pressed them in. Drilled a hole which was about 10 to 12 thou smaller than the max size across the edges then about a 1/4 inch of a slightly bigger size to match the max size for a starting guide. Then it took a few good bumps with the big machinist's hammer to set the hex about a 1/2 or 5/8 inch into the pressure fit. It ain't goin' noplace. Oh, and a slight taper on the end being driven so it spreads the metal instead of cutting it as it's hammered into place.

[jwmelvin]

For the speed keys, do you press the hex in? Any adhesive?

[BCRider]

It started out with tidying up and putting things away and cleaning the mill. But ya'll know how that goes. I got things tidy and decided to mess them up again. For a long time I've been promising myself that I'd do a new 4mm speed key for the new tool post... It's been about a year since I got it so it's still "new". I had made one up for the previous tool post solutions that were all based on 1/4-20 screws which you can see alongside the new one in one of the picture and in the group picture of the rest of today's work.

The top spindle was given a set of six flutes with a 3/16 round nose end mill. Hhex collet block for easy division, eh? This spindle is used as a finger spinner for rapid movement. Then the cross bar for the tightening.

Along the way while looking for something I came across the teeter totter for inside measurements and that caused a pause while I found the only dial gauge it would work with. The others had the wrong size stem bushing. All four of the others. Apparently the stem bushings come in at least four sizes since I've got four sizes here myself. So anyway I cobbled together the aluminum bracket to hold the gauge from the mounting lug on the back. The stem bushing is too short for two spots for holding.

And just to make it an even three projects I milled a new seat at an angle I could actually use on the other end of a 3/8 insert holder for the TCMT insert for aluminum so I could try out these without setting my tool post to an odd angle. So far turning some scrap shows a super nice finish. As in anything other than some polishing compound or super fine sandpaper would be a downgrade.

So all in all it was a productive and fun afternoon and part of the evening.


But now I need to go and clean the mill again.....