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  • #16
    Originally posted by plunger View Post

    I dont think ebay works for S Africa. I wonder if the tap doesnt have to float in the rubber collet to self align . Maybe a solid collet will cause breakages. I also havnt figured out how to use it. The small 4mm tap squarehead part doesnt fit into the square recess at the bottom of the tapmatic. So Im not sure if the collet just holds the tap for self alignment or actually drives the tap.
    Any chance of mounting a Drill Chuck on it,I Tap up to 1/2 NC with them with no issues providing the Spiral Point or Spiral Flute Tap is sharp.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

      I’ve always been intrigued by those Cone Drive setups,the reversing function is so simple.
      It's stupidly simple compared to the clutches in the tapping heads. What's sweet is it slips before breaking a tap, so it can be used even for 2-56. It usually has a drill <#50 in it for piloting, it's nice that the drill doesn't spin till there's pressure so you can be sure to get it in your punch hole. One of my best auction scores, it was like $35. I think I got that and my 12x18 vac former for a similar price the same day.
      Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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      • #18
        I've got a couple Tapmatic heads, one is running a collet I made from a piece of Nylon. It's just turned to the shape of the factory collet and has a single split down the side. It's worked fine for 10 years.
        The collet just holds the tap for alignment, the flats handle all the torque.
        I just need one more tool,just one!

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        • #19
          Does anyone have the 30x tapmatic. If so i hope you could try show me a picof where the tap goes in. I see it has two grub screws on each side but they dont make contact or even move close enough to the square head of the tap to drive it.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

            Any chance of mounting a Drill Chuck on it,I Tap up to 1/2 NC with them with no issues providing the Spiral Point or Spiral Flute Tap is sharp.
            The 30 x only goes to a 1/4 inch tap unfortunately.

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            • #21
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              Originally posted by plunger View Post
              Does anyone have the 30x tapmatic. If so i hope you could try show me a picof where the tap goes in. I see it has two grub screws on each side but they dont make contact or even move close enough to the square head of the tap to drive it.
              I have a 50x, I am not sure how different it is from the 30x other than bigger tap capacity.

              It claims #6- 1/2” taps and easily closes on a 6-32 and would do smaller.

              Mine only has one screw for gripping the square head.



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              • #22
                Originally posted by plunger View Post
                Does anyone have the 30x tapmatic. If so i hope you could try show me a picof where the tap goes in. I see it has two grub screws on each side but they dont make contact or even move close enough to the square head of the tap to drive it.
                Is this manual of any help at all? http://manuals.chudov.com/Tapmatic-3...Parts-List.pdf

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by plunger View Post
                  Does anyone have the 30x tapmatic. If so i hope you could try show me a picof where the tap goes in. I see it has two grub screws on each side but they dont make contact or even move close enough to the square head of the tap to drive it.
                  Maybe this will help. I have a SPD-7 which is from #10 to 5/8" and a model B which is from 1/2" to 1 1/2". They are basically the same operation so probably the same as a #30. The tap is inserted and the chuck nut tightened on the round part of the tap. This squeezes the rubber and metal jaws in the cone shape opening. Then the hex screw is tightened locking on the square of the tap. Doing it in this order helps center the tap in the tool.

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                  Last edited by Ridgerunner; 11-21-2021, 08:26 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by gellfex View Post
                    I find the same. I use my reversing Hamilton sensitive press all the time for #10 and under, which is 95% of my tapping. Otherwise it's a hand drill. I used to rely on a desktop setup of a Zero-Max gearbox with a 1/4" chuck and a 1/10 hp motor, but the Hamilton replaced that. Below is one not mine, mine's set up for higher speed with a 1:1 flat belt drive.

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                    Very nice!!

                    I have a DP thing. I have a Hamilton. Mine keeps throwing the belt, I know why..

                    Its small but still weighs around 80lbs. JR

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by JRouche View Post

                      Very nice!!

                      I have a DP thing. I have a Hamilton. Mine keeps throwing the belt, I know why..
                      Is that your pic that I linked to? It looks just like it and I have a hard time imagining the timing belt set up was OEM. The timing belt doesn't make much sense to me given the drive is a friction system designed to slip. It seems to me throwing a timing belt means that the shafts are misaligned. My faster flat belt setup is trouble free.
                      Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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                      • #26
                        Thank you everyone for the pics and help .Ithink I am missing part 16. It seems the 30x is different to the 50x. I only see two grubscrews on the sides These go through the collet body and are not floating jaws like the 50x. I think I am missing the back jaws. Now if anyone has a 30x and is willing to take a pic I would be grateful. Maybe I can make some jaws once I know how it looks.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by gellfex View Post
                          Is that your pic that I linked to? It looks just like it and I have a hard time imagining the timing belt set up was OEM. The timing belt doesn't make much sense to me given the drive is a friction system designed to slip. It seems to me throwing a timing belt means that the shafts are misaligned. My faster flat belt setup is trouble free.
                          No, Not my pic that you had a link for.

                          I was just showing my drill press. Not some picture is all JR

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                          • #28
                            I really like that Hamilton sensitive drill press. I wonder if there are any casting kits out there to build one similar? Seems like one could easily incorporate that head into a UPT design.

                            We used to have a couple tapmatic heads at work, and I'd never seen anybody ever set them up and use them. They disappeared around the same time a couple guys branched off to start their own shop a few years back......

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by plunger View Post
                              Thank you everyone for the pics and help .Ithink I am missing part 16. It seems the 30x is different to the 50x. I only see two grubscrews on the sides These go through the collet body and are not floating jaws like the 50x. I think I am missing the back jaws. Now if anyone has a 30x and is willing to take a pic I would be grateful. Maybe I can make some jaws once I know how it looks.
                              Looking at pictures online is does appear that the 30x is different than the 50x

                              Tapmatic part number 503161 pulls up a description for tap jaws for the 30x but I’m unsure how that piece works.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by JRouche View Post

                                No, Not my pic that you had a link for.

                                I was just showing my drill press. Not some picture is all JR
                                Don't you think the timing belt is unlikely OEM for it's vintage? Here's mine, I usually like the rectangular table off.

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                                Originally posted by Dan Dubeau View Post
                                I really like that Hamilton sensitive drill press. I wonder if there are any casting kits out there to build one similar? Seems like one could easily incorporate that head into a UPT design.
                                I bet it would be feasible to just start with some 2.5" plate stock, even aluminum. It's not like it's a heavy tool where absolute rigidity is critical. It sure would be interesting trying to replicate all the clever little details.
                                Last edited by gellfex; 11-22-2021, 01:40 PM.
                                Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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