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  • #31
    If someone has a 30x I would really appreciate if you could please show me what the inside jaw looks like.

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    • #32

      Plunger,

      Wet season here, so way too much time on my hands, so I did a bit of searching:

      Download this (only 6 pages):

      http://manuals.chudov.com/Tapmatic-3...Parts-List.pdf

      Scroll to page 5

      Items in 30X Model Column

      15X 50315 (2 required)

      16X 503161 *Back jaws or tap jaws


      Follow this link to MSC page

      https://www.mscdirect.com/industrial...cessories.html

      You can scroll down to PICTURES of these items - both listed as compatibility... 30X ....

      Tapping Head Back Jaw Retainer Screw - MSC #: 09488156 - Tapmatic No 50315 - Compatibility 30TC/DC; 30X; 50TC/DC; 50X; 70TC/DC; NSM4; NSM6; NSM8; RX30; RX50; RX70; SPD3; SPD5

      Tap Jaw - MSC #: 09488164 - Tapmatic No 503161 - Compatibility: 0TC/DC; 30X; RX30; SPD3

      The photo shows Tap Jaw is a 1 piece item - note the slot looks to have a slighter wider step at the bottom

      Now I can't guarantee any of this is correct, but MSC is a well regarded USA Company.

      HTH

      Ian

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      • #33
        Originally posted by gellfex View Post

        I bet it would be feasible to just start with some 2.5" plate stock, even aluminum. It's not like it's a heavy tool where absolute rigidity is critical. It sure would be interesting trying to replicate all the clever little details.
        The machine as a whole isn't really that complicated when you break it down feature by feature. Certainly not out of the realm of a typical home shop build. The original didn't grow on a magical tree fertilized with unicorn piss, so.....

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        • #34
          Originally posted by gellfex View Post

          Don't you think the timing belt is unlikely OEM for it's vintage? Here's mine, I usually like the rectangular table off.
          Good point. Not sure when the cogged belts were invented. It could have been put on there from the previous owner.. I finally saw the pic (larger) of the other one you posted. I looks exactly like mine! Its could be lol.. JR

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          • #35
            I have some tap matics. Dust collectors for me. I have these "quick change" collets for mine. I also have a couple with the rubber-flex collts. Neat tool, I dont know what the collar on mine is for. Should probably get a manual JR

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            • #36
              Originally posted by JRouche View Post

              Good point. Not sure when the cogged belts were invented. It could have been put on there from the previous owner.. I finally saw the pic (larger) of the other one you posted. I looks exactly like mine! Its could be lol.. JR
              Odds seem high, how long have you had it?
              Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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              • #37
                Oh, I forget about your supply problems. I think on E-bay the shipping is up to the seller. I have some items listed there and there were choices for where I would ship them to. I don't know much about international shipping, but in the past I have sold to places like Australia. But S Africa may be different.

                I have used the rubber collets but it has been a while. I do remember that the rubber holds some steel pieces that do the actual gripping. So the rubber is only there to provide a wider grip range than that provided by slits as used in the ER series. And I do think that there were set screws that did the actual driving torque: the rubber and steel section was for centering. The collet itself did not provide any allowance for alignment. When I used the TapMatic, it was in a drill press and the holes were square to the table and work.

                Frankly, for small taps (under 1/4") I don't see why a drill chuck wouldn't work. I have tapped small holes in aluminum and copper with a hand held, battery powered drill and had no problems other than the occasional slippage. I can't say what the situation would be for a 3/8" or 1/2" tap in a difficult steel alloy. I would probably try it with a hand held drill with an adjustable clutch.

                However, if I had a second hand tapping head with no collets, I would probably make an adaptor for the ER collets as I said before. I think an ER style collet could easily grip a tap tight enough to not let it spin.



                Originally posted by plunger View Post

                I dont think ebay works for S Africa. I wonder if the tap doesnt have to float in the rubber collet to self align . Maybe a solid collet will cause breakages. I also havnt figured out how to use it. The small 4mm tap squarehead part doesnt fit into the square recess at the bottom of the tapmatic. So Im not sure if the collet just holds the tap for self alignment or actually drives the tap.
                Paul A.
                SE Texas

                And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                You will find that it has discrete steps.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
                  Oh, I forget about your supply problems. I think on E-bay the shipping is up to the seller. I have some items listed there and there were choices for where I would ship them to. I don't know much about international shipping, but in the past I have sold to places like Australia. But S Africa may be different.

                  I have used the rubber collets but it has been a while. I do remember that the rubber holds some steel pieces that do the actual gripping. So the rubber is only there to provide a wider grip range than that provided by slits as used in the ER series. And I do think that there were set screws that did the actual driving torque: the rubber and steel section was for centering. The collet itself did not provide any allowance for alignment. When I used the TapMatic, it was in a drill press and the holes were square to the table and work.

                  Frankly, for small taps (under 1/4") I don't see why a drill chuck wouldn't work. I have tapped small holes in aluminum and copper with a hand held, battery powered drill and had no problems other than the occasional slippage. I can't say what the situation would be for a 3/8" or 1/2" tap in a difficult steel alloy. I would probably try it with a hand held drill with an adjustable clutch.

                  However, if I had a second hand tapping head with no collets, I would probably make an adaptor for the ER collets as I said before. I think an ER style collet could easily grip a tap tight enough to not let it spin.




                  I suspect a homemade collet even out of delrin would work. It just has to hold tight enough to allow the reverse action to break free of the chip build up and then reversing should need little gripping force.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by plunger View Post

                    I suspect a homemade collet even out of delrin would work. It just has to hold tight enough to allow the reverse action to break free of the chip build up and then reversing should need little gripping force.
                    Good idea. I think the delrin might not have enough grab on the too bit, The rubber flex collets have the metal parts and that is the holding point. The metal parts hold the tool. The plastic will slip. JR

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by JRouche View Post

                      Good idea. I think the delrin might not have enough grab on the too bit, The rubber flex collets have the metal parts and that is the holding point. The metal parts hold the tool. The plastic will slip. JR
                      Is't there a square to keep from turning? The rubber option, I would think, is just to accommodate various shank diameters.
                      Helder Ferreira
                      Setubal, Portugal

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Noitoen View Post

                        Is't there a square to keep from turning? The rubber option, I would think, is just to accommodate various shank diameters.
                        Yes there was a four post.

                        Ill be honest, I was only here for Plunger. Brand new toy and in brand new condition! How often does that happen?!

                        With out the two collets? Hmm It just happens those collets get clean of the holder faster than a monkey in a ...
                        JR

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                        • #42
                          The only reason I know about rubberflex collets is for the Monarch closer 22 Rbberflex collets, in all sizes. Yeah. They had a nme or the chuck? Speed chuck? Lame.. Crapy system in my use of them. No tolerance keeping, they were crap in the lathe!. I dont like the blade and rubber collets.

                          Just my thing. I like metal collets. JR

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by JRouche View Post

                            Yes there was a four post.

                            Ill be honest, I was only here for Plunger. Brand new toy and in brand new condition! How often does that happen?!

                            With out the two collets? Hmm It just happens those collets get clean of the holder faster than a monkey in a ...
                            JR
                            There were some brand new 16mm end millsnever used. Some people are distgusting. You view the lot and in good faith bid on the lot to find someone has stolen the best parts the day before the auction.I could make the collets of steel as well.Im just trying to find what else is missing in terms of the driving part. If someone has a 30x and could show me what the inside of the collet looks like I could get this too work.

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                            • #44
                              Thanks for the pics .Mine is a little different . I will take pics tonight.

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                              • #45
                                Just my thing. I like metal collets. JR

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