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    JRouche
    Senior Member

  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by plunger View Post
    This is what it looks like with the collet nut off.
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1971936
    Thats what I didnt get? The extra piece. Go look at my pic and I dont have one of those "cage" looking parts. Whats it do? I need an upgrade!! LOL!! JR

    Leave a comment:

  • IanPendle
    Senior Member

  • IanPendle
    replied
    I meant that the shank and it's square are the same over a range of actual threading sections e.g. The squares are the same but the tapping portion can be M3, M4, M5 or M6.

    Leave a comment:

  • plunger
    Senior Member

  • plunger
    replied
    Originally posted by IanPendle View Post
    Plunger,

    These units are generally used in a a production/semi-production environment, tapping many, many holes. You can buy series of taps with common square shank sizes, and PERHAPS(?) this is what Tapmatic assumes people in this environment will buy in bulk for their production run requirements. I know you are in SA, but perhaps it will be more logical to to buy a new tap or two with the correct square shank? (if available there).

    Just a suggestion, not a criticism.........

    Ian.
    I have no problem with criticism .Are you saying your taps are a different shank size.? I thought about that but the collet tells me thats not the case. I could make an insert for the tap but just assumed Im doing something wrong or the tool is missing a part of it.

    Leave a comment:

  • IanPendle
    Senior Member

  • IanPendle
    replied
    Plunger,

    These units are generally used in a a production/semi-production environment, tapping many, many holes. You can buy series of taps with common square shank sizes, and PERHAPS(?) this is what Tapmatic assumes people in this environment will buy in bulk for their production run requirements. I know you are in SA, but perhaps it will be more logical to to buy a new tap or two with the correct square shank? (if available there).

    Just a suggestion, not a criticism.........

    Ian.

    Leave a comment:

  • plunger
    Senior Member

  • plunger
    replied
    Originally posted by oxford View Post
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1971952Ttt
    Thanks for this. I see my back jaw only has two slots. But it gives me something to work on.The 4mm tap square shank is smaller than the slots . I might have to make my own backjaw and an arm.

    Leave a comment:

  • oxford
    Senior Member

  • oxford
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	87AF8742-4AA5-48B2-B616-5169775D66AE.png
Views:	56
Size:	547.4 KB
ID:	1971952Ttt

    Leave a comment:

  • oxford
    Senior Member

  • oxford
    replied
    So I found this. I’m not sure if the issue you are having is tap related, a messed up jaw, operator error, or a combination of a few but it looks like you have everything you need for the head.

    http://tapmatic.com/product_line_ins...tachments.ydev

    Leave a comment:

  • plunger
    Senior Member

  • plunger
    replied
    And inside the collet but with the cylindrical gizmo Click image for larger version

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ID:	1971940 which is sitting to the right of the jacops collet inserted.As you can see even with the grub screws turned in as much as possible ,nothing will drive the tap head as the tap square shank is smaller than the backjaw. Its as if something is missing.

    Leave a comment:

  • plunger
    Senior Member

  • plunger
    replied
    This is what it looks like with the collet nut off.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	tap1.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	62.4 KB
ID:	1971936

    Leave a comment:

  • Noitoen
    Senior Member

  • Noitoen
    replied
    I have one similar to the photo and the tap is only held by the square part and is allowed to float around. It has thousands of 6 and 8 mm holes tapped into copper with a "compression flute-less" tap. This was late 70'ies in South Africa.
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.

    Leave a comment:

  • JRouche
    Senior Member

  • JRouche
    replied
    Just my thing. I like metal collets. JR

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  • plunger
    Senior Member

  • plunger
    replied
    Thanks for the pics .Mine is a little different . I will take pics tonight.

    Leave a comment:

  • plunger
    Senior Member

  • plunger
    replied
    Originally posted by JRouche View Post

    Yes there was a four post.

    Ill be honest, I was only here for Plunger. Brand new toy and in brand new condition! How often does that happen?!

    With out the two collets? Hmm It just happens those collets get clean of the holder faster than a monkey in a ...
    JR
    There were some brand new 16mm end millsnever used. Some people are distgusting. You view the lot and in good faith bid on the lot to find someone has stolen the best parts the day before the auction.I could make the collets of steel as well.Im just trying to find what else is missing in terms of the driving part. If someone has a 30x and could show me what the inside of the collet looks like I could get this too work.

    Leave a comment:

  • JRouche
    Senior Member

  • JRouche
    replied
    The only reason I know about rubberflex collets is for the Monarch closer 22 Rbberflex collets, in all sizes. Yeah. They had a nme or the chuck? Speed chuck? Lame.. Crapy system in my use of them. No tolerance keeping, they were crap in the lathe!. I dont like the blade and rubber collets.

    Just my thing. I like metal collets. JR

    Leave a comment:

  • JRouche
    Senior Member

  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by Noitoen View Post

    Is't there a square to keep from turning? The rubber option, I would think, is just to accommodate various shank diameters.
    Yes there was a four post.

    Ill be honest, I was only here for Plunger. Brand new toy and in brand new condition! How often does that happen?!

    With out the two collets? Hmm It just happens those collets get clean of the holder faster than a monkey in a ...
    JR

    Leave a comment:

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