Need to replace electrical switch on my 818P Jet metal bench lathe with milling head

[yellow_cad]

The original switch has six buttons. These are for

forward phase one
reverse phase one
off
forward phase two (twice the speed of phase one)
reverse phase two (twice the speed of phase one)
mill on and off

This is a 1980 model lathe that I acquired in 2010. When I got it the phase two switches did not work which was not the end of the world, but now the mill switch has ceased to work. The phase two switches do nothing when pushed, but the mill switch will run the mill if the switch is held down, but will not stay on otherwise.

I would replace the switch in a heart beat, but I don't believe a direct replacement is available. I would also replace the switch with another with similar functions, but I don't know electrical switches well enough to know what to get and how to wire it. I would also consider modifying the existing switch just so the mill switch would hold in the on position, but I would love to have the phase two on the lathe if the motor is still capable of doing it.

Also, wondering if there is some sort of forum with discussions on older Jet metal lathes.

Thanks for any thoughts on this. Jim

[oxford]

Post some pics of what you have going on and this forum will help get it figured out for you.

Front of switch panel, open it up and what’s going on inside and pic of the motor name plate for starters.

[mickeyf]

In particular you want: pictures intensifying each wire connected to the switch, with the colors or numeric labels that they have any. If there are wires with the same colors and/or no labels, label them yourself. If there is any kind of part number on the switch itself, that may turn out to be helpful. If you are able to, then trace the wires to the motor(s). Also important, and as mentioned, a photo of the motor name plate, which ideally will have a connection diagram on it. Sometimes the diagram is inside the connection box mounted on the motor.

Worst case, if you have all this info you can remove the switch and reverse engineer the contacts. If the switch is burnt or damaged so that this cannot be done with an ohm meter, you should still be able to physically determine which contacts connect in which positions.

[Doozer]

Are these switches line voltage or does the machine have contactor relays??

-Doozer

[yellow_cad]

To start with the motor plate reads as follows (plate was difficult to read as the letter/numbers were very fine:

Stanley Electric Motor Company

Induction Motor

Type - TTC
HP - 1 3/4 (on the plate as 1/3/4)
Pole - 2/4
Rotor - 0
Rating - Cont.
IN2.CL - E (this is the one I'm the least sure of)
Volt - 112
Cycles - 60
Amps - 56/6A
RPM - 3450/1710
Gave bearing numbers
Mfg number - 85618
Year of mfg - 1980

[Doozer]

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...%20asc&start=0

Look at the Rotary Cam Transfer Switch for high and low
and the Rotary Cam Reversing Switch for reversing.

----Doozer

[mickeyf]

There is likely motor connection and reversal information inside the box on the motor where the leads go in. The name plate only has the basic specs. How many wires go to the motor is important. The manuals for the more recent Jet machines all include a wiring diagram. Have you checked with Jet?

[yellow_cad]

This is what my switch looks like from the outside. I will go inside tomorrow.

[BCRider]

What Doozer asked about any possible extra electrical gear inside the box with the switches or perhaps between the switch box and the motor needs to be addressed too. Those style of switches are typically only momentary contact type switches and there's other self latching contactors that are controlled by these switches that do the actual switching to the motor windings.

From the description of your issues the momentary switches might simply be getting overly gummed up by oil and swarf making it's way into the switches. A good cleaning of that particular bank of switches may be all you need to do. But then again there might be issues in the guts that these switches are controlling that does the power control to the motors.

No chance that you have an owner's manual I suppose? Jet should be pretty good about keeping a library of online downloadable manuals for their older gear.

Here is a link to their manuals download page. But I don't have any luck with just 818P. You'll have to see if there's a full model number somewhere on a label of the machine.

[oxford]

If Jet can’t help with a manual there is currently one on eBay for the Machine the OP has listed.

[yellow_cad]

What Doozer asked about any possible extra electrical gear inside the box with the switches or perhaps between the switch box and the motor needs to be addressed too. Those style of switches are typically only momentary contact type switches and there's other self latching contactors that are controlled by these switches that do the actual switching to the motor windings.

From the description of your issues the momentary switches might simply be getting overly gummed up by oil and swarf making it's way into the switches. A good cleaning of that particular bank of switches may be all you need to do. But then again there might be issues in the guts that these switches are controlling that does the power control to the motors.

No chance that you have an owner's manual I suppose? Jet should be pretty good about keeping a library of online downloadable manuals for their older gear.

Here is a link to their manuals download page. But I don't have any luck with just 818P. You'll have to see if there's a full model number somewhere on a label of the machine.

Thanks, I found nothing close to my vintage on there. I will definitely do any cleaning.

[Lew Hartswick]

If the OP would put his location in his profile, perhaps some person with lots of electrical experience would be close and help Are you in Albuquerque NM??
...lew....

[yellow_cad]

I'm in Northern California and I just found a reproduced manual and have it coming. It has an electrical schematic.

[CPeter]

You might be amazed what a good quality electrical contact cleaner will do for that set of switches. I use both Ideal brand and some I get from John Deere as well as some from CRC. For critical uses, I use the Ideal. Works miracles!! You can get it a Lowes.

[yellow_cad]

Here are two photos of the inside of the electrical box.

There are 7 wires coming from the lathe motor:
Red
White
Blue
Yellow
Orange
Black
Green

And, from the mill motor there are 3 wires:
Black
White
Red

The electrical box also contains two capacitors; one large one for the lathe and one small one for the mill (I believe).