Wonderful wago lever action electrical connecters

[Lew Hartswick]

Nooo. Dont twist before you put on the ferrule. Dont twist wires for crimp connections.

Have you seen or used the components I'm talking about?? Here is the text from the back of the 2006S "Splice Cap" box and the changes from the 2011S box.
Copied from the back of the 2006S Open end splice caps [ emphisis added ]

To install: Strip wires approximately 3/4" long. Insert wires thru cap, TWIST, and cut flush. Insertin Buchanan C24 press-Shur tool with latch at "A". Squeeze

Insulate with BUCHANAN #2007 Nylon insulator

To remove: Snip cap at both ends of one crimp or squeeze alternately 90 deg. apart between crimps

UL and CSA listed as "pressure-type wire connectors" and "fixture-type splicing connectors" for 2-10 #18, 2-7 #16, 2-5 #14, 2-4 #12, 2 #10 stranded and / or solid ---- and numerous other combinations

"COPPER WIIRE ONLY"

The back of the 2011S is basically the same with the addition of either the C24 or the P24 tool and the #2014 insulator.
With the wire capabilities:
5-11 #14, 3-7 #12, 2-5 #10, 2-3 #8, 2 #6 Stranded, 4-10 #14, 3-8 #12, 2-4 #10, 2 #8 solid


...lew...

[macona]

Oh, I thought you were talking about standard ferrules.

[wmgeorge]

Lew I have used those from time to time and they are Good.

[Mcgyver]

Have you seen or used the components I'm talking about?? ..

i hadn't, I was thinking a ferrule like this

https://www.amazon.ca/Terminals-Connector-Insulated-Electrical-Electronic/dp/B08LZV5NQ2/ref=asc_df_B08LZV5NQ2/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459367233555&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2649644944661026591&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061009&hvtargid=pla-1365447134821&psc=1

or maybe some sort of crimp on terminal. but that photo explains all, thanks.

[A.K. Boomer]

I am going to cut one apart and look inside.

take pics of the guts and show it to us...


That's one nice crimping tool Lew... I think some just attack from one side, not as good....

[wmgeorge]

take pics of the guts and show it to us...


That's one nice crimping tool Lew... I think some just attack from one side, not as good....

Ok I cut away one with my Dremel tool, crude but you will see the construction anyway. Its not just the notched piece that conducts current but you will see when the wire is inserted, the spring notch piece holds the wire down to a pretty substantial what looks like silver plated copper on the bottom, so I can see where they are getting the amp rating. Would I use on a motor that's going to be drawing a lot of current , no, but for general purpose lights and outlets.... yes. Oh and thanks Edwin!

[A.K. Boomer]

Thanks George - kinda get an idea --- I bet it's extremely good plastic if it's the lever locking system that rely's on the lever part being plastic,,,

maybe you should also just toss one in the fire and retrieve the parts for examination... kudos that's what this place is all about...

[MattiJ]

Thanks George - kinda get an idea --- I bet it's extremely good plastic if it's the lever locking system that rely's on the lever part being plastic,,,

maybe you should also just toss one in the fire and retrieve the parts for examination... kudos that's what this place is all about...

Plastic has no part in holding the wire, plastic lever only opens the spring clamp.

This is not any new fashion item, been in use for over 40 years with 20 billion connectors produced

[A.K. Boomer]

Plastic has no part in holding the wire, plastic lever only opens the spring clamp.

gotcha that makes sense - nice diagram, so high unit pressure on one side with "teeth" to keep it from pulling back out and they do try to get more surface area involved on the other side --- but that's actually counting on the wire holding it's integrity which it cant cuz it's copper,,, so yeah can see why they have such problems esp. after wiggling around and such... I do not like them...

[wmgeorge]

Thanks George - kinda get an idea --- I bet it's extremely good plastic if it's the lever locking system that rely's on the lever part being plastic,,,

maybe you should also just toss one in the fire and retrieve the parts for examination... kudos that's what this place is all about...

But the lever just lifts the notched piece so the wire can be inserted.... the spring tension holds the notch tight against the bottom and note the wire is also against the /\ at the bottom. The drawing posted is not the same as the one I dissected but close enough.

I also note that a lot of hearsay examples posted on the WWW may not be entirely true!!! Surprise.

[A.K. Boomer]

I also note that a lot of hearsay examples posted on the WWW may not be entirely true!!! Surprise.

Yeah but we got two guys of our very own here that can verify faulty connections.... that's enough for me...

[MattiJ]

gotcha that makes sense - nice diagram, so high unit pressure on one side with "teeth" to keep it from pulling back out and they do try to get more surface area involved on the other side --- but that's actually counting on the wire holding it's integrity which it cant cuz it's copper,,, so yeah can see why they have such problems esp. after wiggling around and such... I do not like them...

Wago gage clamp connectors are used inside motor junction boxes and depending on model they are also approved for marine(DNV, Loyd) &railroad use so maybe the worries about wiggling and vibration are bit of armchair engineering type.

[A.K. Boomer]

Wago gage clamp connectors are used inside motor junction boxes and depending on model they are also approved for marine(DNV, Loyd) &railroad use so maybe the worries about wiggling and vibration are bit of armchair engineering type.

I think we far surpassed armchair when one of our own said they could not even handle LED lighting without flickering lol again - count me out...

[wmgeorge]

I think we far surpassed armchair when one of our own said they could not even handle LED lighting without flickering lol again - count me out...

But did they in fact use the Wago's or a cheaper Chinese knock off? The UL and CE does mean they were tested and our friend from
Finland says they are used extensively over in the EU,

[I make chips]

^ They were genyouwine brand name Wago. And they still suck.